Like a jewel dropped into the ocean, Sri Lanka sparkles bright. Tamer than its Indian neighbour, the spicy isle delights with culture, wildlife, gems, adventure, welcoming locals and exotic beauty every which way.
The figurative doors have flung open, and tourists are invited in as one might welcome a long-lost friend, or in this case, a young friend. You mightn’t have considered travelling to Sri Lanka with kids but read on, and you’ll soon wonder why you haven’t ventured to this tear-drop island before. Whether you opt for an independent trip or a customised tour with Soul Sri Lanka, the memories made will last long after you return home.
Accommodating restaurant owners cater well to your cherub’s exacting food requirements when travelling to Sri Lanka with kids. Often compared to Indian food, Sri Lankan curries use a wider spice base, less oil and a gentler cooking method to heighten the flavours. The secret is the freshness combined with a high standard of cleanliness ensuring safe eating for your beloveds. There are also excellent Italian restaurants, seafood just plucked from the ocean, plenty of Western and Chinese options, and if nothing else steamed rice, noodles and fresh fruit are healthy options for fussy eaters.
Beginning with the capital, and although Colombo seems like an unlikely family destination, it does have a certain charm about it. Built in 1877 and housed in an impressive colonial building, the Colombo National Museum is a fascinating starting point to Sri Lanka’s cultural history and the museum is on the south side of the city’s largest park, Viharamahadevi Park. Nearby is the air-conditioned One Galle Face Mall, offering upscale fashion, including fantastic children’s clothes.
More intrepid families will lose themselves in the Pettah Bazaar and its clothes, jewellery, Ayurvedic herbs and fresh produce, and it’s best to avoid the early morning and after-work crowds.
There are temples galore and one in particular worth exploring is the Gangaramaya Temple complex, which was established in 1890 and includes a library, museum, hundreds of Buddha’s sitting in various positions and a Bodhitree.
The elegant Galle Face Hotel makes the most of its westerly direction offering its guests crimson sunsets and high tea and cocktails. Take a break from the heat and relax like the colonials on the cool terrace and lawned area. In the adjacent wing is the refurbished Galle Face Regency with a salt-water pool open to the public for a small fee. When the sun sets in spectacular fashion, the neighbouring Galle Face Green heaves with families and street food for a local experience.
For more epic sunsets, the swanky Mount Lavinia Hotel in the expat and family-friendly neighbourhood of Mt Lavinia, charges a small fee for pool access, but the spectacular views and beach are free. North of Colombo is the charming beach town of Negombo with several very good hotels and guesthouses, an old quarter and an interesting fish market.
Heading much further north is the Cultural Triangle and although the dusty ancient ruins of Anuradhapura (showcasing Sinhalese culture 2,000 years ago), Polonnaruwa (the former medieval capital), and Sigiriya (palace remains on top of a huge outcrop) may not hold the kids’ attention span for long, a safari will.
Minneriya National Park and Kaudulla National Park are in the region and host herds of elephants, deer, sloth, bears, abundant bird life, monkeys and the elusive leopard.
The hill town of Kandy is included in the Cultural Triangle and can be reached by a scenic train ride from Colombo. Listed as a World Heritage City and hosting the Tooth Relic of the Buddha, Kandy is famous for its Kandyan dancing and drumming, and for 10 days over the months of July and August is the procession of Kandy Esala Perahera to honour the sacred tooth. The procession includes thousands of Kandyan drummers, dancers and decorated elephants; surely a sight your beloveds will remember for many years to come
If time permits on your Sri Lankan adventure take a jaunt over to the tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya. As the mist lifts, green tea bushes weave over rolling hills and you could almost imagine you’re starring in your own Dilmah Tea T.V. advertisement. The mild temperature is a cool reprise from the flats and a night or two in a colonial hotel or converted tea-house is an escape from the maddening pace. Before heading to the south coast, break up the arduous journey at the pretty town of Ella and its stunning views through Ella Gap, temples and waterfalls.
The south coast awaits with its idyllic beaches, outstanding restaurants, and relaxing pace.
It won’t be hard to spot the foreigners who came for a visit and couldn’t bear to leave. The hippy surf town of Unawatuna hugs the coast and when you’re back home, don’t be surprised to find yourself longing for this spot. Restaurants and bars dot the palm-tree lined shore as locals and visitors alike frolick in the waves. Young families should head for the area beneath the temple where the currents aren’t as strong. Nearby are the quieter but equally gorgeous beaches of Tangalla, Weligama and the exquisite Mirissa.
A few kilometres west is the picturesque fort town of Galle and its Dutch-colonial buildings, artisans and its tres chic reputation. Unlike most of this region which was devastated by the tsunami, the fort was unscathed and a wander through its winding streets will enchant.
As the end draws near, the journey back to Colombo can be broken up with a visit to one of the turtle hatcheries in Kosgoda. See if you can pick the five different species of these cute critters? Spot the green, olive ridley, hawksbill, leatherback and loggerhead turtles make their perilous journey back to the water; much as you prepare for the journey back to reality. P.S. The Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort next door to the turtle hatchery has one of the best buffets I’ve seen in Sri Lanka (and that’s saying something), an epic pool and direct beach access.
Sri Lanka with Kids: The Lowdown
After surviving the 25-year civil war and the tsunami that devastated much of its south, Sri Lanka is a country of resilience.
Transport: Apart from the roads in the south, which were rebuilt after the tsunami, many are in poor condition or are in the process of being upgraded. As a result, the traffic is hard going, time-consuming and, at best, invigorating. Always allow more time than you think you will need, use a recommended driver and inspect the vehicle (particularly for working seatbelts) before negotiating rates.
Tuks-tuks: A fun way to travel short distances, and hang on tight. Check out the decorations inside, including the tame pin-up posters, and take the time out to listen to the driver’s tales.
Military: There is a military presence, and the frequent sight of guns can be a little alarming, and there are occasional vehicle inspections.
Heat: The humidity is energy-zapping, and the sun is harsh. Don’t forget your sunscreen, cover up and rehydrate regularly. On the upside, the kids will be pleasantly exhausted and will sleep soundly; as will you.
Beach: The tidal currents are strong, and the provision of lifeguards hasn’t exactly caught on yet, so always take care at the beach and if in doubt, ask the locals.
Health: Sri Lanka is very clean, however consulting with a doctor before leaving home is highly recommended. The chemists and supermarkets are well stocked with medicines but may not have familiar brands. Clinics can be variable and consult with your consulate on the best treatment.
Utilities: With regular power outages, the air-conditioning and refrigeration are unreliable and water pressure is low.
Accommodation: There is a wide range of accommodation options, but it can be hit and miss and it’s advisable to do your research.
Insects: The mosquitos are brutal and insect repellent is essential.
Pace: Time moves very slowly in Sri Lanka and while this is part of its charm, the little ones might not understand why their lunch is taking so long. Be prepared for long waits in restaurants, at monuments, when touring and shopping.
Sri Lanka with kids: How to get to Sri Lanka
If you’re travelling from Australia, there are direct flights with Sri Lankan Airlines from Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. Hopefully, Perth will be added to the route soon, but in the meantime, you can fly via Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.
Sri Lanka with kids: Things to do
Soul Sri Lanka customises tours for families of any generation and here is more information.
Colombo National Museum, Albert Cres, Colombo 7
Viharamahadevi Park, Ananda Coomaraswamy Mw
One Galle Face Mall, 1A Centre Road, Colombo
Pettah Bazaar, Pettah District, Colombo 11
Gangaramaya Temple, Sri Jinaratana Rd, Colombo 2
Mount Lavinia Hotel, 100 Hotel Rd, Mt Lavinia
Minneriya National Park and Kaudulla National Park, arrange transport from Giritale 12km northwest of Polonnaruwa
Kosgoda Turtle Conservation Project, Galle Rd (beachside) just north of Kosgoda
Sri Lanka with kids: Where to stay
Cinnamon Grand Colombo, 77 Galle Road, Colombo
Galle Face Hotel, Galle Rd, Colombo
Hilton Colombo Residences, (serviced apartments) Union Place, Colombo 2
Kandy House, Ratwatte Walauwa, Amunugama, Gunnepana
Radisson Hotel Kandy, 31 Saranankara Road, Kandy
Deer Park Hotel, Elahera Road, Giritale, Polonnaruwa
Amangalla, cnr Middle & Church St, Galle Fort, Galle
Thaproban Beach House, Unawatuna Beach, Galle
Thambapanni Retreat, Unawatuna, Galle
Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort, 1 Okanda Road, Hiddaruwa, Naape
Villa Araliya, 154/10 Porutota Rd, Negombo
Sri Lanka with Kids: Where to eat
The Gallery Cafe (recommendation: Black Pork Curry), 2 Alfred House Rd, Colombo
Ministry of Crab, No. 4 Hospital Street, Old Dutch Hospital Complex, Colombo
The Fort Printers (fine chic dining), 39 Pedlar St, Galle Fort, Galle
Mama’s Galle Fort Roof Cafe (casually tasty with lovely views), 76 Leyn Baan St, Galle Fort
Dream House (Italian food at its best at local prices) Unawatuna Beach, Galle
For more Sri Lankan adventures read 11 Unforgettable Things To Do in Sri Lanka, South Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris and beaches and Under the Sri Lankan Spell
For more inspiration check out So Sri Lanka.