A slither of a country, Vietnam is cocooned between China, Cambodia, Laos and the South China Sea. Once divided by war, Saigon formerly held rank as the capital in the south until reunification in 1976 when it was renamed to Ho Chi Minh City, and Hanoi in the north took the reins. In Central Vietnam, and just an hour’s drive from Da Nang International Airport, the Lāng Cô region knows no such drama.

As we approached our resort Angsana Lāng Cô and passed by grazing water buffalo and conical hats bobbing in rice paddies, the verdant Truong Son mountain range shrouded in mist threatened to tumble into the East Sea. Visiting in January during winter, we were surprised at how chilly this part of Vietnam was at this time of the year and if you’re after a tropical frolic, it’s probably best to visit during the high season from May to October. I personally didn’t mind the relief from the humidity of the south and loved any excuse to remain horizontal with a signature Rainmist Classic experience or tension releasing Vitality starter massage at Angsana Spa Lāng Cô after a yoga or Pilates session.

I doubt I’d ever need an excuse to linger in our two-bedroom beachfront villa, which was 159m2 of luxury featuring a central living and dining area leading out to the deck and private pool with Canh Duong Beach at our feet. Each bedroom included an en-suite bathroom and was located on either side of the living area, making it perfect for families (especially with the fully-supervised kids club), two couples or friends travelling together. Other configurations ranged from the Garden Balcony Grand to the extravagant two-bedroom Angsana Skypool Sea View Loft.

There’s as much adventure or relaxation as you can handle including the 18-hole Faldo-designed Laguna Golf Lāng Cô or a visit to the local fishing village or on-site activities such as Vietnamese cooking classes. Also on offer are jungle hikes, bungee trampolining, ATV safaris, mountain biking, parasailing, paddle-boarding, kayaking or follow the lazy river snaking for 300 metres through the entire resort.

Onsite are several restaurants from the buffet style Market Place (it’s easy to spot the Australians as they make a beeline for the vegemite at breakfast) to Vietnamese favourites at Moomba and the rooftop Upper Deck for sunset cocktails. The standout was the hilltop Saffron Restaurant, a short buggy ride away at the Banyan Tree, also part of the Laguna Lāng Cô complex. Offering Thai cuisine inspired by the Imperial family and served on hand-crafted stoneware and gold cutlery, we began with a hand-washing ceremony in jasmine-scented water.

Under the direction of Chef Renu Homsombat, we were lavished with refined dishes such as crispy noodles wrapped in sweet prawns, chicken and beef satay, and squid with squid ink sauce. The mango sorbet was so delicate it barely existed on the tongue before dissolving into fleeting bliss. The duck curry with lychee and pineapple compote delivered a mix of sweet, sour and spicy flavours with each mouthful. The pork rib with pepper and honey, and beef short rib with logans were rich in flavour and served with four types of rice – brown, saffron, jasmine and pandan. Just as I was willing rice pairing to become the next food trend in Perth, our desert of mango sticky rice arrived.

A true escape from Western reality, Laguna Lāng Cô is a destination in its own right. However, if you did want to venture further afield here are two incredible day trips.

Day trip to Hoi An

Once a busy port between the 15^th and 19^th centuries, the UNESCO-list town of Hoi An holds an ethereal quality within its lantern lit streets. Boasting grand colonial architecture interspersed with temples billowing in clouds of incense and ancient teahouses, travel back in time while meandering through the many museums and the iconic Japanese covered bridge. Don’t forget to enjoy a haggle at the markets and if time permits, linger after sunset to witness the ancient tradition of lanterns floating down the river at night.

Must eat: Cao lâu noodles are only served in Hoi An and legend has it they are prepared with the water from the ancient Ba Le Well mixed with the ash from trees from the nearby Cham Islands.

Hue’s Imperial Palace

If you’re lucky enough to extend your trip in Hoi An, Namia River Retreat is due to open in late 2024. Set on the Thu Bon River, 60 luxurious pool villas inspire mindfulness and wellbeing, with plenty of gastronomic indulgences and cultural immersion. With so many fantastic deals with VietJet and direct flights from Perth, I’m definitely adding Namia River Retreat to the list.

Namia River Retreat

Day trip to Huê

Exuding the glory of imperial Vietnam, Hue modestly remains off the tourist radar. Just an hour away from Lāng Cô and situated along the Perfume River, the 19^th-century Citadel dating back to 1362 still stands and is testament to the country’s resilience. You could easily lose an entire day just wondering through the expansive ruins and its alleys outside of the citadel moat. Or join a countryside cycling tour through rice paddies, markets and villages for a unique perspective.

Must eat: Emperor Tu Duc, the emperor of the Nguyen dynasty, was rumoured to have never eaten the same meal twice in a year. As a result, the legacy of his inventive personal chefs remains with dishes such as bânh bèo (rice pancakes), co’m hên (clam rice) and Bùn bò Huê (spicy beef noodle soup).

For more information about travel in Vietnam, please check out Visit Vietnam and click here to read more about my travels in Vietnam, to stay up-to-date with Fluffy Towel, please subscribe. Thank you!

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Hanoi, Hue, Ho Chi Minh, Hoi An, humanity, horns, honking, hovering, hammering, haze, haunting…the soundtrack of traffic in Vietnam.

Toots and motorbikes surround us on a honking Hanoi street as we bravely contemplate stepping out into the oncoming traffic in Vietnam. We don’t look left or right but instead directly ahead and careful to not make any sudden movements, we steadily walk in a straight line as though we are being tested for drunken behaviour. Given our mad jaunt onto the road, doubting our sobriety would have been perfectly reasonable; if we had been anywhere else in the world other than Vietnam. The traffic parts like the Red Sea, and as quickly as it opens, the gap fills like water flowing rapidly into a jagged stream.

To think only 24 hours earlier as we descended, I had been so excited to see the crazy intersections with their weaving traffic in Vietnam. In a population of 84 million people, there are approximately 16 million motorbikes, and from the plane window, it looked as if there was a good portion of this number directly below.  I had naively thought how serene it looked. Like a ballet where the dancers have rehearsed their routines so well they could perform blindfolded, only here their masks are worn over their noses and mouths. Of course, the performance I saw from above was executed in silence, apart from the acoustics of the plane.

It’s like the city has given birth to a million horns and every newborn is crying at the same time to be fed.

Now out on the street and in the midst of all the action, the honking is relentless day and night overpowering the sounds of humanity, traffic, jackhammers and sirens.  Honks compete to be heard above each other. I don’t mind the one echoing until its tone softens into silence but there’s one that sounds like a trumpet, another has a jazzy tune similar to the Pink Panther theme, and there’s the truck horn which unnerves even the most stoic of people, especially when they discover the bellowing is not coming from a huge vehicle but from a motorbike.  Of course, there’s also the driver who has his hand permanently on the horn. I wonder how anyone knows who the horns are meant for.

Perhaps part of the problem is our timing. We are still under the graceful spell of Hoi An in central Vietnam, a magical place lit by lanterns and ladies on bicycles. During our visit, the river burst its banks, turning the streets into canals, and as the water-lined streets flickered with candlelight, the sunset bathed us in a rose-coloured glow. But here the only thing the streets in Hanoi are streaming with is motorbikes, taxis and cyclo-drivers. The pavements are full of merchants, eateries and more motorbikes using the sidewalk for parking. The streets are lined with Vespa boutiques and vehicle repair shops and even the ground floors of many of the buildings are used for parking.

In Hanoi, a blanket hangs over the city, but it’s not there to snuggle up to; it’s more like something to throw off in a fit of restless sleep. Motor vehicles emit a toxic stew, and I later learned the city smog in Vietnam’s major cities can be as thick as a mile. And given that we can’t see one block away from our apartment on the 18^th floor, I can believe this.

The sound of yelping dogs joins in with the cacophony below. We guess they are also victims of the traffic and the yelps abruptly cease as the poor creatures are put out of their misery.  Our hotel sits on the site of Hoa Lo Prison, also known as the Hanoi Hilton. Much of the original structure was demolished, as though removing most of the prison would eradicate those crimes of war committed on the very spot we rest our heads. What remains of the prison is full of propaganda and includes images of American soldiers having a fabulous time laughing and playing cards.  Now, the citizens of Hanoi have been condemned to a lifetime of imprisonment in pollution.

Vietnam is an intriguing and complex country, and I’m sure I will visit again, especially to the tranquil centre. For how long these heavenly places will exist is worrying, which gives me a sense of urgency to return. On first impression much of the country’s beauty is hidden, just out of reach to the tourist on a fleeting visit. Yet, it is as seductive as a Vietnamese woman, with her haunting eyes peaking out above a protective face mask. She is barely saved from the hovering haze, much as tourists are merciless under the spell of her mysterious charm.

For another perspective of Vietnam, you can read all about what cruising the Mekong is really like when taking a boutique cruise with CF Mekong Cruises or if you’re wondering how to get to Vietnam, check out my review of VietJet Air. And for more information about travel in Vietnam, go to Visit Vietnam.

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Cruising down the Mekong on my virgin voyage into the world of cruising was an unforgettable experience that I just had to share on Travel Writers Radio with Graeme Kemlo. G&T’s at sunset, Angkor Wat at sunrise and meeting some of the happiest people I’ve ever encountered were just a couple of the highlights of this 8-day Mekong cruise from Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City aboard the Toum Tiou II with CF Mekong Cruises by Croisi Europe.

Credit: CF Mekong Cruises

Ta Prohm temple, aka Tomb Raider temple

Our tour officially began in Siem Reap, where we spent two nights at the Regency Angkor Hotel and went on an unforgettable temple hop to Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, and Ta Prohm. We also visited the Artisans dÁngkor art centre, which supports young artists from Cambodia’s rural areas, and the lively Pub Street, where crunching on barbequed tarantula and washing it down with beer isn’t that uncommon.

The following day we transferred to Koh Chen and settled into our cabins aboard the Toum Tiou II, which included ensuites and air-conditioning, a luxury that I was eternally grateful for as it gets pretty steamy in this part of the world.

Mr Ry and Smiley – possibility the happiest people on earth?

On day two of our Mekong cruise, we set sail to Kampong Chhang on Tonle Sap Lake and visited Andong Russey Pottery Community, where I met one of the happiest people on earth—Mr Ry. His ecstatic disposition may have something to do with the rice wine he and his wife make. Or maybe he is just high on life, especially when shimming up palm trees to collect the sap to make palm sugar, which is sold alongside the handmade pottery this village is famous for.

Colourful fishing villages along the Mekong

On day three, we took an oxcart to Wat Kampong Tralach Leu Pagoda, adorned with murals of daily life, where a monk blessed us. We set sail to Camodia’s ancient capital, Udong, and had a fascinating chat with one of the nuns who lives at the Vipassana Dhura Buddhist Meditation Centre. Mind you, it was a very quiet chat because we had arrived during prayer time. After wandering through the centre past ornate temples and handcrafted homes placed around a tranquil lake, I began to understand the appeal of meditation and why many nuns and monks dedicate themselves to this centre.

The sparkly Royal Palace, Phnom Penh

The following day, we steamed into the sparkly lights of Phnom Penh and visited the shiny Royal Palace before exploring the Art Deco Central Market, back streets and elegant French Quarter for a peek into the daily lives of local Cambodians. As the capital of Phnom Penh, I highly recommend taking more time here before joining the cruise and visiting the Killing Fields and former school Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, aka S21. I won’t sugarcoat it. This is a confronting and upsetting experience, but I feel you can’t visit the city without paying tribute to those who made the ultimate sacrifice. If you spend more time in Phnom Penh, the Anik Palace Hotel offers very comfy beds and a rooftop bar for epic sunsets.

Anik Palace Hotel, Phnom Penh

We crossed the border the next day, and the staff took care of the formalities on our behalf as the Mekong became busier, functioning as a watery highway and leaving behind the Cambodia’s colourful fishing villages. We arrived in Tra Su Forest and took a motorboat and rowboat through this stunning biodiverse area before heading to Chau Doc to take a cable car up Sam Mountain for incredible views of the verdant landscape where Cambodia meets Vietnam.

Where Cambodia and Vietnam meet from Sam Mountain

The next day I wondered if unicorns do exist when we visited Unicorn Island (aka Thoi Son), famous for its honey and sampan rides through the mangrove lined canals.

Looking for unicorns on Unicorn Island, aka Thoi Son

Sailing into Ho Chi Minh at sunset was a spectacular way to arrive. Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, we transferred to Vespas to zip through the city of over seven million motorbikes with Urban Venture Tours. Cultural immersion was planned for our final couple of days as we visited the Reunification Palace, War Remnants Museum, Notre Dame Cathedral, Post Office, City Square, Opera House, Giac Lam Pagoda and Chinatown made all the more vibrant as Luna New Year celebrations adorned the city, along with young women posing in traditional Vietnamese outfits for photos – given the crowds, I suspect they made history by breaking Instagram that day.

Posing for Luna New Year in front Ben Thanh Markets, Ho Chi Minh City

I was fortunate enough to spend a few more days exploring Ho Chi Minh City. If you’re basing yourself in the vibrant District 1, I highly recommend staying at the grand Hotel Majestic Saigon. But here’s a tip: opt for a room on one of the higher floors, as there is a nightclub next door pumping until the wee hours.

Giac Lam Pagoda, the oldest pagoda in Ho Chi Minh City

Vietjet conveniently flies between most Australian capital cities, including direct flights from Perth to Ho Chi Minh City. It’s definitely worth upgrading to SkyBoss class, Vietjet’s answer to Premium Economy, for a dedicated check-in counter, lounge access, care packs (I always love a snuggly blanket when flying), meal inclusions, and seats at the front of the plane. Please read my full review of my flight here so you, too, can fly like a boss.

Here’s a link to my review of CF Mekong Cruises on Tripadvisor

Full disclosure: I was an indulgent guest of CF Mekong Cruises, Anik Palace, Regency Angkor Hotel, and VietJet. Here is my review of the Mekong cruise on Tripadvisor.

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On a direct flight to Perth on Vietjet Air, I had the chance to fly in the unique SkyBoss class. Admittedly, the flight from Vietnam’s capital to Perth required an ungodly wake-up call from my hotel in District 1 to catch the 6.30am flight, but since it was direct, my flight to Perth on Vietjet had me home in just over six hours. And you can’t complain about that, especially when flying in the Skyboss class, Vietjet’s answer to Premium Economy.

By flying direct to Australian capital cities, including the flight to Perth with Vietjet five times a week, Vietnam has now become easily accessible to Australians, opening it up as a new non-stop destination that many travellers mightn’t have considered before. The direct routes have also made Australia a viable option to Vietnamese travellers too, especially those reconnecting with family.

Offering affordable travel as a budget airline, Vietjet sets itself apart with its customer service, which I personally experienced. As soon as I was shown to my seat, I was greeted with water and hand wipes – I vaguely remember the glory days of travel when all flights began this way. They helped me place my hand luggage in the overhead storage – a greatly appreciated gesture by this vertically challenged traveller, which I wished more airlines considered. Before take-off, I also received a care pack that included a cosy blanket, face mask and an inflatable pillow. Given the early hour, that snuggly blanket came in handy for napping even though the temperature was very comfortable even without the extra layer.

The excellent level of service continued throughout the flight, with one of the flight attendants personally going through the menu with me for breakfast and lunch. The dishes were delicious and substantial with breakfast consisting of Singapore noodles and a boiled egg, as well as hot and cold drinks. Lunch was pho garnished with a plentiful amount of herbs and chilli, a comforting dish I haven’t encountered on a plane before that I highly recommend if you ever get the chance. The flight attendants were also quick to remove the dirty dishes away so I could get back to my nap and One2 Fly inflight magazine as soon as possible. With only a few rows dedicated to Skyboss at the front of the plane, our curtained-off area had a dedicated toilet and roomy seats that reclined far enough back for a comfortable nap, and if you get the chance, I’d recommend the very front row for the extra leg room and so there’s no-one in front of you.

Those travelling in the Skyboss class are also treated to lounge access prior to flying with endless coffee, tea, soft drinks and snacks. Here’s a tip so you don’t waste any time finding that early morning caffeine hit, the lounge at the Tan Son Nhat International Airport is nestled between gates 17 and 18, which was very convenient as my flight left from gate 17. It’s worth getting to the airport as early as possible to not only make the most of the lounge but also to navigate your way through immigration and security, including the obligatory water confiscation on the final round of security just before boarding the plane, thanks to Australia’s strict customs regulations. The dedicated Skyboss check-in counter at the airport, however, does help to speed up the process.

Even if you’re not flying Skyboss, you can prebook your seats, meals, luggage, Sky Joy loyalty program and Sky Care insurance at the time of booking your flight. Regardless of which class you fly, and this might seem like a superficial thing to mention, but I really liked the flight attendant’s cute uniforms, consisting of chequered (and sensible) shorts, fitted red tops with a chequered trim adorned with flying wings and badges, a brown belt, red heels, matching red lipstick and a stylish plaid hat. These youthful uniforms designed by European designers channelling army cadet uniforms added an element of fun and have won awards for their innovativeness.

Since launching the direct flight to Perth on Vietjet between Ho Chi Minh City in November 2023, discounted flights seemed to be ongoing, and I’ll leave you to scroll through the dates to find these incredible deals to suit your travel plans with connections to many other parts of Vietnam and Asia including Thailand, Korea, India, Japan, China, Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Laos, Myanmar and Cambodia. You might enjoy reading my article about Central Vietnam’s Lang Co Region, some musings about Vietnam and about the cruise I took on the Mekong.

Ho Chi Minh City is a vibrant city whether you’re exploring markets, temples, high-end shopping and dining, street food or joining the relentless throng in amongst the traffic in this city that never seems to sleep. I stayed at the Hotel Majestic and here are some other highly recommended hotels in District 1.

Full disclosure, I was hosted by VietJet on my Skyboss flight home. One-way flights between Perth and Ho Chi Minh City start from $121.96 so don’t wait to get planning your next Vietnamese adventure. Click here to book your flights direct with VietJet Air and here are some of the perks of flying Skyboss 

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