Like a jewel dropped into the ocean, Sri Lanka sparkles bright. Tamer than its Indian neighbour, the spicy isle delights with culture, wildlife, gems, adventure, welcoming locals and exotic beauty every which way.

The figurative doors have flung open, and tourists are invited in as one might welcome a long-lost friend, or in this case, a young friend. You mightn’t have considered travelling to Sri Lanka with kids but read on, and you’ll soon wonder why you haven’t ventured to this tear-drop island before. Whether you opt for an independent trip or a customised tour with Soul Sri Lanka, the memories made will last long after you return home.

Accommodating restaurant owners cater well to your cherub’s exacting food requirements when travelling to Sri Lanka with kids. Often compared to Indian food, Sri Lankan curries use a wider spice base, less oil and a gentler cooking method to heighten the flavours. The secret is the freshness combined with a high standard of cleanliness ensuring safe eating for your beloveds. There are also excellent Italian restaurants, seafood just plucked from the ocean, plenty of Western and Chinese options, and if nothing else steamed rice, noodles and fresh fruit are healthy options for fussy eaters.

Beginning with the capital, and although Colombo seems like an unlikely family destination, it does have a certain charm about it. Built in 1877 and housed in an impressive colonial building, the Colombo National Museum is a fascinating starting point to Sri Lanka’s cultural history and the museum is on the south side of the city’s largest park, Viharamahadevi Park. Nearby is the air-conditioned One Galle Face Mall, offering upscale fashion, including fantastic children’s clothes.

More intrepid families will lose themselves in the Pettah Bazaar and its clothes, jewellery, Ayurvedic herbs and fresh produce, and it’s best to avoid the early morning and after-work crowds.

Gangaramaya Temple

There are temples galore and one in particular worth exploring is the Gangaramaya Temple complex, which was established in 1890 and includes a library, museum, hundreds of Buddha’s sitting in various positions and a Bodhitree.

The elegant Galle Face Hotel makes the most of its westerly direction offering its guests crimson sunsets and high tea and cocktails. Take a break from the heat and relax like the colonials on the cool terrace and lawned area. In the adjacent wing is the refurbished Galle Face Regency with a salt-water pool open to the public for a small fee. When the sun sets in spectacular fashion, the neighbouring Galle Face Green heaves with families and street food for a local experience.

Galle Face Green at sunset

Mt Lavinia Hotel

For more epic sunsets, the swanky Mount Lavinia Hotel in the expat and family-friendly neighbourhood of Mt Lavinia, charges a small fee for pool access, but the spectacular views and beach are free. North of Colombo is the charming beach town of Negombo with several very good hotels and guesthouses, an old quarter and an interesting fish market.

Negombo Fish Market

Heading much further north is the Cultural Triangle and although the dusty ancient ruins of Anuradhapura (showcasing Sinhalese culture 2,000 years ago), Polonnaruwa (the former medieval capital), and Sigiriya (palace remains on top of a huge outcrop) may not hold the kids’ attention span for long, a safari will.

Minneriya National Park and Kaudulla National Park are in the region and host herds of elephants, deer, sloth, bears, abundant bird life, monkeys and the elusive leopard.

The hill town of Kandy is included in the Cultural Triangle and can be reached by a scenic train ride from Colombo.  Listed as a World Heritage City and hosting the Tooth Relic of the Buddha, Kandy is famous for its Kandyan dancing and drumming, and for 10 days over the months of July and August is the procession of Kandy Esala Perahera to honour the sacred tooth. The procession includes thousands of Kandyan drummers, dancers and decorated elephants; surely a sight your beloveds will remember for many years to come

Colourful Kandy

If time permits on your Sri Lankan adventure take a jaunt over to the tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya. As the mist lifts, green tea bushes weave over rolling hills and you could almost imagine you’re starring in your own Dilmah Tea T.V. advertisement. The mild temperature is a cool reprise from the flats and a night or two in a colonial hotel or converted tea-house is an escape from the maddening pace. Before heading to the south coast, break up the arduous journey at the pretty town of Ella and its stunning views through Ella Gap, temples and waterfalls.

The south coast awaits with its idyllic beaches, outstanding restaurants, and relaxing pace.

It won’t be hard to spot the foreigners who came for a visit and couldn’t bear to leave. The hippy surf town of Unawatuna hugs the coast and when you’re back home, don’t be surprised to find yourself longing for this spot. Restaurants and bars dot the palm-tree lined shore as locals and visitors alike frolick in the waves. Young families should head for the area beneath the temple where the currents aren’t as strong. Nearby are the quieter but equally gorgeous beaches of Tangalla, Weligama and the exquisite Mirissa.

A few kilometres west is the picturesque fort town of Galle and its Dutch-colonial buildings, artisans and its tres chic reputation. Unlike most of this region which was devastated by the tsunami, the fort was unscathed and a wander through its winding streets will enchant.

As the end draws near, the journey back to Colombo can be broken up with a visit to one of the turtle hatcheries in Kosgoda. See if you can pick the five different species of these cute critters? Spot the green, olive ridley, hawksbill, leatherback and loggerhead turtles make their perilous journey back to the water; much as you prepare for the journey back to reality. P.S. The Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort next door to the turtle hatchery has one of the best buffets I’ve seen in Sri Lanka (and that’s saying something), an epic pool and direct beach access.

Sri Lanka with Kids: The Lowdown

After surviving the 25-year civil war and the tsunami that devastated much of its south, Sri Lanka is a country of resilience.

Transport: Apart from the roads in the south, which were rebuilt after the tsunami, many are in poor condition or are in the process of being upgraded. As a result, the traffic is hard going, time-consuming and, at best, invigorating. Always allow more time than you think you will need, use a recommended driver and inspect the vehicle (particularly for working seatbelts) before negotiating rates.

Tuks-tuks: A fun way to travel short distances, and hang on tight. Check out the decorations inside, including the tame pin-up posters, and take the time out to listen to the driver’s tales.

Military: There is a military presence, and the frequent sight of guns can be a little alarming, and there are occasional vehicle inspections.

Heat: The humidity is energy-zapping, and the sun is harsh. Don’t forget your sunscreen, cover up and rehydrate regularly. On the upside, the kids will be pleasantly exhausted and will sleep soundly; as will you.

Beach: The tidal currents are strong, and the provision of lifeguards hasn’t exactly caught on yet, so always take care at the beach and if in doubt, ask the locals.

Health: Sri Lanka is very clean, however consulting with a doctor before leaving home is highly recommended. The chemists and supermarkets are well stocked with medicines but may not have familiar brands. Clinics can be variable and consult with your consulate on the best treatment.

Utilities: With regular power outages, the air-conditioning and refrigeration are unreliable and water pressure is low.

Accommodation: There is a wide range of accommodation options, but it can be hit and miss and it’s advisable to do your research.

Insects: The mosquitos are brutal and insect repellent is essential.

Pace: Time moves very slowly in Sri Lanka and while this is part of its charm, the little ones might not understand why their lunch is taking so long. Be prepared for long waits in restaurants, at monuments, when touring and shopping.

Sri Lanka with kids: How to get to Sri Lanka

If you’re travelling from Australia, there are direct flights with Sri Lankan Airlines from Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. Hopefully, Perth will be added to the route soon, but in the meantime, you can fly via Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

Sri Lanka with kids: Things to do

Soul Sri Lanka customises tours for families of any generation and here is more information.

Colombo National Museum, Albert Cres, Colombo 7

Viharamahadevi Park, Ananda Coomaraswamy Mw

One Galle Face Mall, 1A Centre Road, Colombo

Pettah Bazaar, Pettah District, Colombo 11

Gangaramaya Temple, Sri Jinaratana Rd, Colombo 2

Mount Lavinia Hotel, 100 Hotel Rd, Mt Lavinia

Minneriya National Park and Kaudulla National Park, arrange transport from Giritale 12km northwest of Polonnaruwa

Kosgoda Turtle Conservation Project, Galle Rd (beachside) just north of Kosgoda

Sri Lanka with kids: Where to stay

Cinnamon Grand Colombo, 77 Galle Road, Colombo

Galle Face Hotel, Galle Rd, Colombo

Hilton Colombo Residences, (serviced apartments) Union Place, Colombo 2

Kandy House, Ratwatte Walauwa, Amunugama, Gunnepana

Radisson Hotel Kandy, 31 Saranankara Road, Kandy

Deer Park Hotel, Elahera Road, Giritale, Polonnaruwa

Amangalla, cnr Middle & Church St, Galle Fort, Galle

Thaproban Beach House, Unawatuna Beach, Galle

Thambapanni Retreat, Unawatuna, Galle

Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort, 1 Okanda Road, Hiddaruwa, Naape

Villa Araliya, 154/10 Porutota Rd, Negombo

Villa Araliya

Sri Lanka with Kids: Where to eat

The Gallery Cafe (recommendation: Black Pork Curry),  2 Alfred House Rd, Colombo

Ministry of Crab, No. 4 Hospital Street, Old Dutch Hospital Complex, Colombo

The Fort Printers (fine chic dining), 39 Pedlar St, Galle Fort, Galle

Mama’s Galle Fort Roof Cafe (casually tasty with lovely views), 76 Leyn Baan St, Galle Fort

Dream House (Italian food at its best at local prices) Unawatuna Beach, Galle

For more Sri Lankan adventures read 11 Unforgettable Things To Do in Sri Lanka, South Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris and beaches and Under the Sri Lankan Spell

For more inspiration check out So Sri Lanka.

The post Sri Lanka with Kids: Smiles from the Teardrop Isle appeared first on Fluffy Towel Travel.

On this episode of Travel Writers Radio, I had the opportunity to chat about – Sri Lanka – one of my favourite destinations with Graeme Kemlo. I was lucky enough to return to in March on a famil with the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau for the #sosrilanka campaign in a kaleidoscope of curry, tuk-tuks, elephants, dancers, Ayurveda, more curry and dancers and plenty of Sri Lankan hospitality.

I’m not the only one under its spell, as author Arthur C Clarke spent many decades living in Sri Lanka for its underwater wonderland and relaxed way of life. In fact, he wrote 2001: A Space Odyssey on the island and believed there is a gravitational anomaly that will always draw you back once you’ve visited the south coast. I’ve been a few times and hope to return many more times – perhaps there is some truth to this intriguing theory. Maybe you agree too and here are some hotel options in southern Sri Lanka?

If you enjoyed this radio interview, you might also be interested in 11 Unforgettable things to do in Sri Lanka, my awkward experience at an Ayurveda retreat and discover the best beaches and safaris.

The post Travel Writers Radio: Under the Sri Lankan spell appeared first on Fluffy Towel Travel.

Like a jewel dropped into the ocean, Sri Lanka sparkles bright, especially when you have these 11 unforgettable things to do in Sri Lanka. Once named Serendip, then Ceylon, the tear-drop isle might be compact in size, but it heaves with beautiful beaches, UNESCO-listed heritage sites, tea plantations, wildlife, dance, gems, spice, jungles, ancient wonders, Ayurveda and kilo-watt smiles every which way.

Located off the southwestern heel of India, and given this enchanting country’s rapid development, now is the perfect time to visit. I keep returning – I’m a huge fan of this island around the same size as Tasmania. Here are 11 unforgettable things to do in Sri Lanka.

1. Join a Sri Lanka tour tailored just for you

Arriving in Sri Lanka can be invigorating and also a little daunting. You mightn’t even realise the airport isn’t even in Colombo; it’s in Negombo about an hour north of the capital. While Sri Lanka is relatively compact, and there are few things as fun as careening around in a tuk-tuk, finding a reputable driver between towns can be a challenge for first-time visitors. Sri Lanka is such a varied country and offers so many options that planning the logistics can be overwhelming, especially as many hotels and tourism operators are difficult to locate online for English-speaking travellers. Using a tour company can provide a great introduction to the country with current on-the-ground knowledge, and Soul Sri Lanka will tailor Sri Lanka tours just for you. If you’d like to know more, please click here to register your interest.

A birds’ eye view of the Red Mosque and downtown Colombo from the open-top bus tour

2. Explore the capital of Colombo

To get your bearings, start in the capital of Colombo and join an open-top bus tour with Colombo City Tour. While navigating your way through the bustling traffic, you’ll gain a glimpse into daily life and the juxtaposition of the old town against a backdrop of skyscrapers mixed with temples, including the exquisite Red Mosque, also known as Jami Ul-Alfar Masjid, distinct in its red and white candy stripe. Throughout the tour, it’s hard to miss the 350-metre Lotus Tower honouring the country’s resilience and a flight to the top rewards with panoramic views.

View of Colombo from the Lotus Tower

So many temples, so little time, catering to the range of religions living in harmony, including Muslims, Buddhists, Hindus and Christians. Established in 1890, the Gangaramaya Temple complex sits on the banks of Beira Lake and includes a museum, a relic chamber filled with dozens of Buddhas sitting in various positions, a Bodhiya tree and a replica of Borobudur. Equally ornate is the Hindu Sri Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam Kovil Temple and Koneswaram Temple surrounded by the sea from its rocky promontory.

Gangaramaya Temple

Built in 1877 and housed in an impressive colonial building, the Colombo National Museum is a fascinating starting point to understanding Sri Lanka’s cultural history and the museum is on the south side of the city’s largest and oldest park, Viharamahadevi Park. Nearby is the air-conditioned One Galle Face shopping centre offering seven storeys of upscale fashion connected to the Shangri-La Hotel. Intrepid shoppers won’t mind getting lost in Pettah Bazaar bursting with clothes, jewellery, Ayurvedic herbs and fresh produce; best avoided early in the morning and evenings unless you’re craving even more chaos.

Pettah Bazaar

Take a break from the heat and relax like the colonials on the terrace of the grand Mount Lavinia Hotel in the expat-friendly district of Lavinia. Even if you’re not staying here, you’ll be bathed in crimson at sunset, preferably with a cocktail in hand, bobbing in the pool overlooking the Indian Ocean or you could sample some of Sri Lanka’s prized seafood with the sand between your toes at the Seafood Cove.

Stay: Cinnamon Grand Colombo, which is not only grand but it also smells of cinnamon or the Hotel Mount Lavinia, built over 200 years ago and oozing all the grandeur and romance of the era.

Cinnamon Grand Hotel, lives up to its name by smelling of cinnamon and being grand

The Good Spa in Weligama lived up to its name

3. Indulge in Ayurveda

Legend has it that in the 6^th century, Prince Vijaya came to Sri Lanka after being banished from India. He and his personal physician introduced Ayurveda to the island, and soon every village had an Ayurvedic doctor. It’s safe to say the craze caught on as over 6,500 practitioners are registered in one of the oldest forms of healing in the world.

The word Ayurveda literally means “The Science of Life” where ayuh is life and veda is science; rather fitting then that it’s a way of life and is used to treat aches and pains. Ayurvedic centres and spas vary from wooden huts in remote locations to five-star spas catering to the needs of Westerners.

An Ayurvedic buffet

Ayurveda treatments can be as relaxing or intensive as you so desire; either way it promotes positive health, natural beauty, a long life and some even swear it’s anti-aging, and check out what to expect at an Ayurveda retreat in Sri Lanka. With so many to choose from, I have had the pleasure of narrowing it down to Wedagedara Spa (Kandy), Ayusha Weda Madura (Ella), Shine Spa (Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort), by Marriott Bonvoy, click on the image below to redeem your points) and Good Spa Weligama.

Credit Siddhalepa Ayurveda Health Resort

Or take it even further with an intensive stay at an Ayurvedic resort such as one of the four Barberyn Ayurveda Resorts (check out my review of Barberyn Beach here) or Siddhalepa Ayurveda Resort in Mount Lavinia (Colombo) and Wadduwa, about 30 minutes south of Colombo. At their Mount Lavinia venue, sample one of their bespoke treatments followed by a delicious and healthy meal at Café Lavinia, prepared by chef Sunil Liyanage, who has spent the last 25 years perfecting Ayurveda dishes for Asian and Western palates.

Who says you have to suffer at an Ayurveda Health Resort, especially not at Siddhalepa Ayurveda Health Resort

You might enjoy reading A funny thing happened at the Ayurveda day spa.

Temple of the Tooth Relic, Kandy

4. Visit the Temple of the Tooth Relic in Kandy

Take one of the most scenic train rides in the world for 115 kilometres from Colombo to the UNESCO-listed city Kandy, Sri Lanka’s second-largest city. Set on Kandy Lake, you’ll find the Temple of the Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa), one of the most sacred places of Buddhist worship, where you can easily spend hours wandering around.

Temple of the Tooth Relic, Kandy

Believed to have belonged to Buddha, wars have been fought over this relic. Even if you’re not religious, it’s still worth a visit for the temple’s intricate details and serene atmosphere, particularly early in the morning to beat the crowds.

Temple of the Tooth Relic, Kandy

During August, the procession of the Esala Perahera festival honours the sacred tooth, featuring hundreds of Kandyan drummers, dancers and decorated elephants. Kandy is famous for its dancers, so don’t miss a show at the Kandyan Cultural Centre.

Kandyan Cultural Centre

Gently lapping at the city’s edge, Kandy Lake is an idyllic spot for a stroll among the wildlife, including enormous monitor lizards, often mistaken for crocodiles and the cause of many a tourist running for cover to the amusement of the locals. While you’re moving those legs, take to the chaotic streets in a maze of colour, shops and tasty food.

Kandy

Stay: Radisson Hotel Kandy (request a room with a balcony for incredible views) or the Mahaweli Reach for colonial grandeur.

Tea pickers in Nuwara Eliya

5. Explore the tea plantations in Nuwara Eliya

About 170km east of Colombo, the tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya, a charming town also known as Little Britain, is a favourite spot for expats reigning from the UK craving a reprieve from the heat thanks to the cooler highland temperature. As the mist lifts and the verdant tea bushes weave over undulating hills, you could almost imagine you’re starring in a Dilmah Tea advertisement. Add a visit to one of Damro Tea’s plantations to discover the difference between the tea varieties, join a factory tour and discover what life is like living on a tea plantation.

Stay: Blackpool Hotel where you might even need the fireplace and bath in your room.

Mist over Nuwara Eliya

6. Go on a safari

Sri Lanka has one of the top biodiversity hotspots in the world and witnessing wild animals in their natural habitat is one of the most spellbinding experiences you can have. While on safari in Udawalawe National Park, as the dusty track settled after our jeep’s plume of disruption, an elephant nonchalantly sauntered by with her calf in tow. Her majesty suddenly paused and turned to face our jeep to examine us intensely, leaving us wondering who was observing who while on safari. Our exaltation was palpable until she decided we were no threat to her family. Despite the intense temperature and humidity that day in Udawalawe National Park, I wasn’t the only one who was covered in goosebumps.

Not all safaris are created equal, and I highly recommend joining Niluka Safari for their intimate knowledge of the 30,821-hectare Udawalawe National Park and a fleet of well-maintained open-sided jeeps ideal for spotting over 600 elephants, wild buffalo, peacocks, spotted deers, crocodiles, a wide range of birdlife, monkeys, and on the rare occasion leopards.

Minneriya National Park has the highest gathering of elephants worldwide, as does Yala National Park, where you’re more likely to spot leopards. You might also spot the elusive leopard along with sloth bears, a range of birdlife and reptiles at Wilpattu National Park in the northwest.

Thuduwa Camp

Stay: Thuduwa Camp in Udawalawe National Park, where you I promise you won’t be roughing in one of their air-conditioned suites.

Click here for my post about some of the best elephant safaris.

How to get from Ella to Udawalawe – Sri Lanka

Next, we’ll be heading to Ella and if you’re wondering about the best way to get there, check out this awesome How to get from Ella to Udawalawe – Sri Lanka blog by The Manduls.

Nine Arches Bridge

7. Trek to the Nine Arches Bridge

The day before, there were absolutely no goosebumps while trekking about 1.5 kilometres down to the iconic Nine Arches Bridge, between the hilltown town of Ella and Demodara Railway Station. Built in 1921 entirely from rock, cement and brick and spanning 91 metres, the bridge is a prime example of colonial railway construction. This Instagram mecca is especially popular when the train passes over as pretty young things perch precariously on the edge, an activity I don’t encourage for obvious safety reasons but also because you will get a much better vantage point from the surrounding hills. Or you could jump on the train for an immersive experience, something I have planned for my next trip. Avoid visiting during the wet season when it’s muddy and slippery. Here’s another tip, the trail down is picturesque but very steep and uneven and you can take a tuk-tuk at about halfway, followed by a visit to the coconut stands at the starting point for welcome refreshment.

Enjoying the view of Little Adam’s Peak from 98 Acres Resort & Spa, Ella

While in the area, keep stretching those calves with an inspiring trek up Little Adam’s Peak or admire it over lunch at 98 Acres Resort & Spa, ziplining, visiting waterfalls (including Diyaluma Falls) and exploring the charming hilltop town of Ella.

Downtown Ella

Stay: The Orient Hotel Bandarawela is well-placed to explore the region, offers incredible vistas and don’t forget to check out the karoke bar.

Sri Lanka’s stunning coastline

8. Flop on a beach

The south coast awaits with its idyllic beaches, outstanding restaurants and relaxing pace. It won’t be hard to spot the foreigners who came for a visit and couldn’t bear to leave. The hippy surf town of Unawatuna hugs the coast and don’t be surprised to find yourself longing for this spot long after your return home. Restaurants and bars dot the palm-tree-lined shore as locals and visitors alike frolic in the waves. Young families should head for the area beneath the temple where the currents aren’t as strong. Nearby are the quieter but equally gorgeous beaches of Tangalla, Weligama and the exquisite Mirissa.

Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort

About 90 minutes south of Colombo, Bentota’s beaches are calmer than the south coast, as is Kosgoda Beach, where I recommend staying in one of the ocean-facing suites at the Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort, by Marriott Bonvoy, click on the image to redeem your points.

Stilt fishermen

Tip: The tidal currents are strong and lifeguards are rare, so always take care at the beach and if in doubt ask the locals for advice on where to swim.

Click here for more details about Sri Lanka’s beaches.

Galle Fort

9. Wander through Galle Fort

The picturesque fort town of Galle enthrals with its Dutch-colonial buildings, artisans, cafes, boutique accommodation in Galle Fort and its tres chic reputation. Unlike most of this region, devastated by the 2004 tsunami, the fort was unscathed thanks to the protection of its walls, and a wander through the winding streets of this UNESCO-listed heritage site will enchant.

Streets of Galle Fort

Walking around the perimeter and through the entire fort takes a couple of hours, but you could easily lose days in the best possible for the scenery alone – I know I have. Don’t miss the lighthouse (the star of many postcards), museums and churches and some of the best shopping on the island at the many boutiques, gem shops and galleries. Time your visit with a cricket match or the Galle Literary Festival, where you’ll be treated to literary and gourmet events held within Galle Fort and the surrounding region. Check out my story about meeting Candace Bushnell, the author of Sex and the City at the Sex in a Sarong event at the Galle Literary Festival.

Galle Fort

10. Explore ancient wonders

No list of things to do in Sri Lanka is complete without the UNESCO-listed Sigiriya, also known as Lion Rock Fortress, famed for its erotic frescos of Sigiriya ladies and mirrored wall. Full disclosure, I did visit this iconic rock-top fortress, but my fear of heights prevented me from making it past the feet. From all accounts, this climb isn’t to be taken lightly, with 1,200 steps and a staircase becoming more precarious the higher up you go. Many recommend climbing the nearby Pidurangula Rock for incredible views of Sigiriya and fewer crowds.

Mysterious Sigiriya

However, I spent plenty of time exploring Anuradhapura, the original capital city. Dating back to the 4^th century, the ruins, giant stupas and dagobas are some of the holiest spots on the island. The colossal Jetavanaramaya dagoba spans over 233,00 sqm, and the sheer scale dwarfs thousands of annual pilgrims.

Dwarfed at Anuradhapura

After Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa became the royal capital in the 11^th century. Evidence of its significance is still evident today from the well-preserved ruins, baths and stone carvings. I can’t recommend a visit to any of these ancient ruins enough.

Polonnaruwa

11. Try the food

Often compared to Indian cuisine, Sri Lanka food is always spicy and fresh. To give you an idea of how fresh, even the coconut is hand-ground daily, taking my favourite dessert, the coconut pancakes to the next level. For a more in-depth taste of Sri Lankan cuisine you might enjoy this article I wrote for Menu Magazine called Savouring Sri Lanka.

Rice and curry is the national dish, where pretty everything you can think of is curried – even cashew nuts, cucumber and garlic. Since the coast plays such a pivotal role in Sri Lanka, the seafood is superb, and crab curry is a specialty, which you can sample at the Ministry of Crab in Colombo.

Tuna fresh off the boat, Galle

Try the thin bowl-shaped pancakes filled with sambal or dhal called hoppers and chopped-up rotti bread with vegetables and/or meat cooked on a hot plate (just listen for the chopping sound) known as Kottu Roti.

Black Pork Curry at Nuga Gama, Cinnamon Grand Hotel

One of my favourite dishes I have yet to master making at home is Black Pork Curry, and at every opportunity, I head to The Gallery Café for this tangy curry. On a recent trip, I discovered Nuga Gama in the Cinnamon Grand Hotel serves black pork curry on the buffet. Resembling a village, this restaurant is set around a 200-year-old banyan tree and decked out in fairy lights, it’s a magical spot to dine beneath the stars.

Sri Lankans love their buffets and one of the best I experienced was at S Kitchen at the Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort, by Marriott Bonvoy, and to redeem points click the image below.

I’m also a fan of 39 Bistro & Wine Bar at boutique The Fort Printers hotel in Galle Fort, Dream House in Unawatuna (the best lasagne I’ve tasted outside of Italy) and pretty much any beachside café serving seafood and views.

Iconic train trip from Colombo to Galle

I’m an incredibly appreciative guest of Sri Lanka Tourism, who I joined in March 2023 with a talented group of journalists and content creators from around the world to spread the word that this intriguing island is open to tourists.

How to visit Sri Lanka:

How to get to Sri Lanka: Qantas has partnered with Sri Lankan Airlines with flights from Perth, Western Australia via Singapore or Kuala Lumpur. From the moment you hit the departure gate, you’ll be treated with Sri Lanka’s infamous warm hospitality.

Visas: Australians must apply for a visa online before departure. Once approved, you’ll receive a link to complete your arrival card, ensuring a seamless arrival at Bandaranaike International Airport.

Arriving: Bandaranaike International Airport is in Negombo, and it’s worth noting it’s about an hour north from the capital, possibly more if there’s bad traffic, so you will need to account for this on your way home. Many spend their first and last night in Sri Lanka in Negombo, a charming beach town with several excellent hotels and guesthouses, an old quarter and a lively fish market.

Getting around: One of the best ways of getting around is to rent a driver with a car or tuk-tuk and be prepared to agree on a price beforehand as they aren’t metered. Or rent a tut-tuk for a self-drive adventure – but watch out for the buses that seem to have a death wish. With any of these options, it’s best to research thoroughly and Sri Lanka Travel references some reputable drivers or ask your hotel for a recommendation. Depending on the conditions, traffic can be congested, time-consuming and invigorating. Always allow more time than you think you will need, use a recommended driver and inspect the vehicle (particularly for seatbelts) before negotiating rates.

Tip: Each tuk-tuk is individually decorated inside and take the time to listen to the driver’s tales.

Just hanging out in Polonnaruwa

Military: There is a strong military presence, the sight of guns can be a little alarming and there are frequent vehicle inspections; just be polite and it’s worth noting that a smile goes a long way in Sri Lanka.

Climate: Sri Lanka has four seasons – hot, hotter, wet, wetter – so pack accordingly, hydrate and don’t forget to slip, slop, slap. Once you head into the hills, temperatures become milder, so pack a sweater for cool nights.

Lightning storm over Kandy

Health: Sri Lanka is very clean by Asian standards; however, consulting with a doctor before leaving home is highly recommended. The chemists and supermarkets are well stocked with medicines but may not have familiar brands. Clinics can vary and consult with your hotel or consulate on the best treatment if you become seriously unwell. The mosquitos are brutal and insect repellent is essential.

Culture: One of the best things about Sri Lanka is the range of religions living in harmony, including Muslims, Buddhists, Hindus and Christians. Their warm hospitality and modesty are a common thread regardless of religion, so please respect this, always cover your shoulders and legs at temples, and save your swimwear for the beach and pool only to avoid unwanted attention.

Galle Face Green heaves at sunset

The post 11 unforgettable things to do in Sri Lanka appeared first on Fluffy Towel Travel.

With the streets lined with Ayurveda spas, and I thought it was time to take my wellness journey up a notch with a stay in an Ayurveda retreat in Sri Lanka. But I must confess, I was anxious about my stay in an Ayurveda retreat. I really like espressos, I don’t take kindly to being told what to eat and nor do I enjoy the taste of medicine. I wasn’t entirely on board with the vegetarian menu either during my stay at an Ayurveda retreat in Sri Lanka, unlike my neighbour pictured below.

Meaning the “Science of Life” Ayurveda has been passed down through the generations for over 5,000 years and is still practiced today by most Sri Lankans. In fact, Ayurveda centres are dotted throughout the island as the government dispenses herbal medicines free of charge and it’s not uncommon for tuk-tuk drivers to stop suddenly for a top-up of herbal medicine or tea regardless of whether they have passengers in the back or not.

I’m one of the many pampered guests of Barberyn Ayurveda Resort has been caring for since opening in 1984 for a predominantly European clientele, a third of which are returning customers. Barberyn is considered one of the most authentic and holistic healing retreats in the world and as it was the first of its kind, it paved the way for wellness tourism in Sri Lanka by bringing Ayurveda to the Western world with four resorts, Barberyn Reef in Beruwala (an hour from Colombo), Barberyn Sands (Bentota), and Barberyn Beach and Barberyn Waves near the seaside town of Weligama.

The essence of Ayurveda is maintaining a level of balance between the three life energies, or doshas: Vata, Pitta and Kapha. When our doshas are in harmony we achieve a state of equilibrium; our well-being improves, vitality increases and the ageing process is delayed. Imbalances occur from incorrect eating patterns, stress, negative feelings, lack of exercise, smoking, pollution, and alcohol and drug consumption. The symptoms include tension, insomnia, back pain, arthritis, obesity, sinusitis, skin conditions, migraines and depression, to more serious illnesses like Parkinson’s disease and cancer for improved immunity and to detox the invasive treatments to severe diseases.

Initial consultation, photo credit: Barberyn Ayurveda Resorts

On arrival, I received the doctor’s consultation and a treatment plan to remove toxins, known as panchakarma, as well as a prescription for herbal medicines and a controlled eating plan. The treatment plan has three phases: 1) preparing the body for purification 2) purification and 3) post purification and rejuvenation. This isn’t a quick fix solution and while most guests will dedicate one to two weeks, three weeks provides optimal results.

Nutrition is the cornerstone of health and there are six tastes, or rasas, not just for the taste buds but for absorption by the whole body. Consuming all six tastes at every meal balances out the doshas. The tastes are sweet, sour, salty, pungent, bitter and astringent. I’ve been put on a controlled diet, so the delicious cashew nut curry, pumpkin dishes and orange cake are off the menu for me, but I have free reign over the vegetarian biryani, string hoppers, curries, roasted vegetables, red rice, lentils, bread (to sop up all that goodness) and tropical fruits.

Consumption isn’t just about food either as liquids are equally important. Take note, gallons of warm water and herbal tea is consumed, which leaves little room for the forbidden coffee and alcohol. Even cold drinks are to be avoided as they decrease your digestive power and slow down detoxification.

My morning coffee substitute

Each day begins with a three-hour treatment, which at first is a confronting experience as there’s no segregation between the sexes as everyone swans around in just a green sarong. Not to mention I’m not generally in the habit of being bathed by complete strangers. They don’t remain strangers for long and I soon start to relax during the synchronised massages, baths, herbal paste applications, facial therapies and acupuncture.

Photo credit: Barberyn Ayurveda Resorts

Every day I’m administered fresh herbal medicines such as decoctions, pills and powders, which need to be consumed at specific times every day. Over 400 herbs are sourced from both resorts, nearby mangroves and the hill town of Kandy, and one decoction can contain up to 60 ingredients and include bark, root seeds and flowers. The decoctions are boiled in earthenware pots over a long period of time and reduction produces a strong and pungent flavour which is best diluted with honey or warm water.

My verdict: Barberyn is not for the “cocktails at sunset” crowd. Some of the therapies and humidity can be challenging at times, especially as most of the decorated rooms are without the interruption of TVs or air-conditioning as maintaining peace and a core body temperature assists with the purification process.

The jungle threatening to claim Barberyn

Photo credit: Barberyn Ayurveda Resorts

There’s plenty of free time to enjoy the optional and inclusive activities like yoga, Ayurveda talks and excursions. I opt for a lagoon safari with a visit to Cinnamon Island, which has the added bonus of afternoon tea with cinnamon flavoured biscuits; they’re kind of healthy, right? Other afternoons I slip into the salt-water pool overlooking the ocean or flop on the balcony with a book and those commanding ocean views. Most nights are languid except during the fire-breathing and dancing cultural extravaganzas.

My stay allowed me to thoroughly indulge in myself while escaping the trappings of modern living and existing habits. In fact, I may have even overindulged since I left one kilo heavier than I arrived; I’m so chilled I don’t even care.

The grounds at Barberyn Beach

Extra: If a trip to Sri Lanka isn’t viable Lakshmi Ayurveda Wellness Centre (www.lakshmiayurveda.com.au) in Hamilton Hill, Western Australia provide authentic Ayurveda experiences. Personalised services begin with an initial in-depth consultation to plan a holistic approach through treatments, understanding your dosha, exercise and eating appropriately to suit your constitution.

Follow the links for more details about Barberyn www.barberynresorts.com and Ayurveda http://www.instituteofayurveda.org/plants/

Now you’re all oiled up, you might also enjoy A funny thing happened at the Ayurveda Spa in Sri Lanka and while you’re on this magical island you should check out 10 unforgettable things to do in Sri Lanka.

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One of the oldest forms of holistic healing in the world, Ayurveda promotes natural beauty, positive health and a long life. Sri Lanka heaves with Ayurveda practitioners, and treatments vary from wandering into a centre for a relaxing massage to an intensive stay at an Ayurvedic retreat in Sri Lanka where you’ll be revived physically, emotionally and spiritually.

Before booking your plane tickets and going all zen-like, here’s the lowdown on what to expect at an Ayurveda resort in Sri Lanka.

1.       Up close & personal

It’s going to be confronting. There will be much poking and prodding and expect questions about your diet, exercise regime, lifestyle and medical history. The physical examination gets to the root of any ailments and leaves no sin unturned.

2.       Dosha

When your dosha (life force) is in harmony, your body is in good health. Employing the five elements of earth, water, fire, air and space, there are three doshas:

• Vata: air and space relating to body, movement, mind and senses
• Pitta: fire and water relating to heat, metabolism, energy and digestion
• Kapha: earth and water relating to physical stability, body structure and fluids

Practitioners assess the dosha of each quest to determine their diet, medicinal herbs and treatments throughout their stay. The prognosis isn’t open to negotiation; doctor’s orders.

3.       Potions

Every guest is provided with bespoke herbal medicines using herbs and plants native to Sri Lanka like leaves, bark, berries, roots and flowers. Taken several times a day, it’s an acquired taste.

4.       Treatments

The daily treatments use a lot of oil and include head, face, and body massages (sometimes synchronised), herbal inhalation, herbal water baths and herbal steam baths. Unique treatments include:

Shirodhara: Oil is gently poured from a special vessel for 30 minutes onto the third eye on the forehead.

Eye therapy: eyeballs are washed with oil to relieve tired eyes

Panchakarma: an intensive cleanse incorporating several treatments

The food at Siddhalepa is as healthy as it is tasty

5.       Food

An Ayurvedic menu is mainly vegetarian with a small amount of fish. Food is classified into six taste categories of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent and astringent. The philosophy recommends all categories are to be included in every meal to achieve proper nutritional balance. Guests are advised to only eat the dishes aligned with their dosha.

6.       Sacrifice

Caffeine junkies and smokers may suffer as stimulants aren’t welcome at some retreats, while other retreats accept moderation. There won’t be any gin and tonics at sunset either. It’s also advised to avoid the sun as skin will be sensitive after treatments. It’s best to bring your old bathers and sarongs as the oils don’t come out of fabric. Intensive treatments may induce side effects as both body and soul are cleansed.

Photo credit: Tourism Sri Lanka

7.       Appearance

Allow your inner beauty to shine and forgo the hair styling and makeup because the oily treatments will undo any work spent in front of the mirror. On that note, contact lens wearers should bring some spares and glasses because oil can get in the eye depending on the treatment and damage your contact lenses.

8.       Behaviour

As buried emotions are released, the behaviours of some guests can be erratic, with some appearing ecstatic, angry, sad or withdrawn. Give your fellow guests space, after all, you are all there to heal and relax in your own way.

A elixir for the soul and body

9.       Indulge

There are very few times in life where total self-immersion is possible.  Rest whenever you feel tired and indulge in the pampering. Succumb to the treatments, nutrition and potions because there is true freedom and leaving yourself in the hands of professionals.

10.   Results

Ayurveda alleviates many ailments, from headaches to chronic back pain and more serious diseases, including detoxing after invasive treatments such as chemo. Some even swear it’s anti-aging and since Sri Lankans are believed to have the longest life expectancy in South East Asia, the proof is right before you. If nothing else, swanning around in little more than a sarong adorning your radiant skin is a liberating experience.

Photo credit Siddhalepa Ayurveda Health Resort

Want to try it for yourself? With so many to choose from, I highly recommend Wedagedara Spa (Kandy), Ayusha Weda Madura (Ella), Shine Spa (Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort, by Marriott Bonvoy) and Good Spa Weligama. If you’re looking for something more involved, try one of the four Barberyn Ayurveda Resorts or Siddhalepa Ayurveda Resort in Mount Lavinia (Colombo) and Wadduwa, about 30 minutes south of Colombo.

If you enjoyed this fleeting insight into what an Ayurveda retreat in Sri Lanka is really like, you might enjoy A funny thing happened at the Ayurveda spa in Sri Lanka and while you’re researching or dreaming about a trip to this magical island, check out 10 unforgettable things to do in Sri Lanka.

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Receiving an Ayurveda treatment is a life-changing experience for the body, mind and soul – but be prepared to have your Western sensitivities challenged, as I discovered on a recent trip to an Ayurveda spa in Sri Lanka.

Deemed the science of life, the ancient tradition of Ayurveda is believed to be a contributing factor to Sri Lankans having the longest life expectancy in southeast Asia. Any Ayurveda spa in Sri Lanka aims to restore good health through a range of holistic and indigenous herbal therapies such as nutrition, baths, massage, cleansing, yoga and meditation.

I’ve visited several Ayurveda spas in Sri Lanka, ranging from high-end retreats to rustic affairs in rural areas. At an Ayurvedic centre in the hilltop town of Ella, I’m kneaded into submission and basted in a mix of oils and herbs during my massage. I’m then led into a room best described as a saffron-coloured tagine – like one you’d find in Morocco holding tagine. Kind of apt, given the national dish in Sri Lanka is rice and curry. My belongings have been shoved into a plastic shopping bag likened to a stiff tote bag and my slippery body is wrapped in a tiny towel, barely covering my modesty, despite my petite stature. My lack of attire and fair skin attracts plenty of attention from the many staff members milling around.

The journey to the tagine is via an open passageway with views into the surrounding homes and businesses, rewarding several unsuspecting locals with a glimpse of a greasy white woman in a towel with a shopping bag being led by the hand by a local female therapist.

With my hazy journey over, the door to the tagine opens to reveal two attractive and amused Swedish girls who are as surprised to see me as I am them. As I settle onto the stone bench, I can’t help but think this scenario is the making of many a man’s fantasy, until we all make eye contact and burst into hysterics. Enter Kat, aka the Travelling Greek, also clad in a teeny towel, her shopping bag and a confused WTF expression.

The door shuts behind us, creating a seal much like an oven door, except mercifully, there’s no additional heat source in the humidity, just four oily and bewildered women. There’s an assortment of herbs on the ground – perhaps that’s what they meant when they offered me an “aromatic shower,” except there’s no water either apart from our tears of laughter mingling with oil down our pitiful faces. Maybe those herbs had hallucinogenic qualities, like the ones I learned about at an Ayurveda factory tour.

Our laughter subsides after a while as we ponder how long they will leave us. Perhaps they’ve forgotten about us? Where are the cameras? Does the door only open from the outside? These are all questions thrown around until the brief silence invites another eruption of laughter, escalating to the point where several curious therapists suddenly appear at the door.

They too start laughing, mostly likely at our ridiculousness. The general consensus is that we have marinated long enough and we’re individually escorted out of the tagine clutching our shopping bags and what’s left of our dignity.

I follow the same open pathway back to the massage room in hysterics while the therapist attempts to keep my towel and modesty intact. Her attempts are futile, but finally, my walk of shame is over and I pray for the opportunity to wipe away some of the oil and dress in privacy. Given my wobbly state, she decides I’m not fit to be left alone and proceeds to dress me before delivering me to Kat, who is waiting for me in an equally deplorable state. There’s no sign of the Swedish girls, just the faint echoes of their laughter following us into the surreal daylight.

If you enjoyed this story, you might also like reading about more Sri Lankan adventures.

In 2023, I was a guest of Destination Sri Lanka and for more information go to www.destinationsrilanka.travel 

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Yala National Park

Some of Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris and beaches can be found in the south of this magical tear-shaped island.

The scents of coconut oil, incense, diesel, sunscreen, salt, and curry flirt with abandon in the gentle breeze, as swaying palm trees accompanying bikini-clad bodies glistening in the humidity. No one would mind or blame you if flopping on the beach was all you did. But interacting with the land, its people and wildlife (if you’re lucky) will be the beginning of a life-long affair with an island so rich in beauty, culture, and history, most of which seem to somehow connect with water.

At first glance, an island is defined by water, whether streaming from above or crashing into its extremes. The monsoon season dictates the best time to visit certain regions, but the rain also brings enchanting surprises like butterflies feasting on the nutrients found in mud puddles left from jeep tracks or elephants playing in a mud bath.

I’ve had the absolute pleasure of researching some of Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris and beaches.

SRI LANKA’S BEST ELEPHANT SAFARIS

As the dusty track settles after the plume of disruption, an elephant nonchalantly saunters by with her calf in tow. Her majesty suddenly pauses. She turns to face our jeep to examine us, leaving us wondering who is observing who while on safari. Our exaltation is palpable until she decides we’re no threat to her family. Despite the intense temperature and humidity, I’m not the only one covered in goosebumps.

After this unforgettable experience, I can verify that one of Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris can be found at the 30,000-hectare Udawalawe National Park, home to over 600 elephants going about their business, including mums with their calves and protective males watching over their kingdoms.

A busy mum eating on the run at Udawalawe National Park

Although you’ll also be guaranteed to see other elephant-loving tourists, I have to commend Udawalawe National Park on staggering the entry of the jeeps ensuring plenty of space between, although at times, it gets hectic when jeep drivers get a tip-off about an elephant sighting. It’ll certainly be an invigorating ride, but seeing these majestic creatures in the wild is spell-binding. I highly recommend booking with the reputable Niluka Safari group.

On safari with Niluka Safari

You’ll also see plenty of other animals too, including water buffalos, monkeys, crocodiles, spotted deer, over 180 species of birds and strutting peacocks. At the centre of the park lies the Udawalawe reservoir. Since its opening in 1972, the park is dedicated to providing a catchment area to provide water for agriculture and hydro-power generation, as well as providing a wild animal sanctuary.

You can rest your muscles with an overnight stay in a clay hut at the lakeside Camp Thuduwa in the lap of luxury, while surrounded in nature, coconut palms and a few cheeky monkeys. On-site there’s a pool, restaurant and spectacular views over the lake.

A Fluffy Towel kind of camping experience at Camp Thuduwa in Udawalawe National Park

Yala National Park is cradled in the far eastern corner of the south and covers approximately 979 square kilometres, and is one of the most popular elephant safaris in Sri Lanka. It has a range of ecosystems, including wetlands and sandy beaches and is known for its extensive bird life (over 100 species), elephants, water buffalo, wild boar, jackals, sloth bears, deer, monkeys, water monitors, crocodiles, and the highest density of leopards in the world, approximately 25 – 30 elusive leopards who are best spotted from February to July.

The park closes between September and October and the best time to visit is during the dry season between May and August; especially as elephants usually head to higher ground or use bushes as makeshift umbrellas when it’s wet. There are several tour operators including Eco Team Pvt Ltd who can also arrange unforgettable overnight glamping adventures on one of Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris.

Glamping in Yala National Park

On safari at Yala National Park

If elephants are definitely on your agenda, then Minneriya National Park has the largest gathering of Asian elephants in the world and is one of Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris. Head to the Minneriya Tank, especially in the dry season from May to September, to watch these majestic creatures drink, bathe and play. You’ll also see plenty of monkeys, crocodiles, pythons, butterflies and over 160 species of birds.

Tips for going on a safari in Sri Lanka:

• Best time to go on a safari: safaris run for most of the year but the best time is during the dry season as the animals will be more concentrated during these times, but it will also be the busiest time to go.
• How long will I need: you can go for half a day or stay for overnight adventures, or longer. The benefit of staying overnight is that you can be up at sunrise and in the national park when the animals are more active – plus the light is glorious for photos and you’ll beat the crowds.
• Which tour company shall I book with? Do your research and opt for eco-friendly tour companies promoting the ethical treatment of animals since many safaris aren’t well-regulated. If you’re unsure Destination Sri Lanka can recommend some reputable tour companies and on my last trip in 2023, Niluka Safaris were very good at avoiding the crowds of jeeps, which can cause distress to the animals.
• Bring cash to tip your guide; they deserve it.
• Go early or late for the best light for photography and when the animals are most active.

Tips for what NOT to do on safari:

• Never feed the animals as it can make them sick and depend on humans.
• Don’t draw attention to yourself by making excessive noise – these are wild animals after all and you’re in their territory.
• NEVER, EVER leave the jeep – you’ll put yourself and others at risk, and more importantly, the animals themselves. Imagine the consequences of a herd of charging elephants.

SRI LANKA’S BEST BEACHES

Unawatuna Beach

Foreigners, burquas, and children bob along to the rhythm of boats along the curvaceous bay of Unawatuna Beach, which translates to “it fell from the sky”, and this heaven-sent beach and town hosts makeshift cafes, bars, guesthouses, and water sports like diving, snorkelling, fishing, boating and swimming.

Unawatuna town

Snorkelling equipment can be hired along the beach and the reefs near the west end can be explored year-round. There are several shipwrecks and marine life to see, and diving trips can be organised with Sea Horse Divers, who also offer diving courses, night dives, reef dives, and wreck dives. The Unawatuna Diving Centre also runs diving services and offers beach-side cabanas for an affordable beach shack experience. The best time to dive is mid-October to the end of April, and the double reef makes it very safe for swimming and a favourite with families.

A seafood feast on Unawatuna Beach

Unawatuna isn’t only famous for its beautiful beach and since it’s surrounded by hillside jungle, treks are popular, especially on the west end of the beach near the temple across the Rumassala peninsula to Jungle Beach, which can only be reached by foot or boat.

Galle Fort

Just a few kilometres to the west of Unawatuna is the town of Galle and its iconic UNESCO-listed fort. Its walls protected it from the tsunami and preserved not only its beautiful Dutch architecture, but also the working community of administrative offices, local families, street peddlers, businesses and expatriates. You can easily spend the day, or longer, in Galle Fort since it’s full of restaurants, eclectic shops, boutique accommodation, stunning architecture, boutique hotels and a friendly community.

The Fort Printers hotel

Heading east along the coast is the laid-back towns and beaches Ahangama and Midigama, which are best known for their consistent waves thanks to the many rocks and coral however, at times the conditions can be hazardous. There’s an area at Midigama commonly known as Lazy Left, which bends around the rocks and onto the bay, but it’s at Ram’s Right, a few hundred metres down that draws the experienced surfers to the region.

Continuing east is the town of Weligama (meaning Sandy Village) best known for its clay handicrafts, colourful outriggers in the sapphire bay, and the tiny Taprobane Island. Indulge in some barefoot luxury and rent out the only property on the island, a five-bedroom mansion, and live like the auspicious bevy of adventurers, authors, artists and royalty before you. The only way on or off the island is to wade through the crashing waves at low tide, but soggy underwear is a small price to pay for a visit to this magical island, as I discovered an event called Sex In A Sarong during Sri Lanka’s Galle Literary Festival.

Mirissa Beach

Imagine a coconut paradise where you long to escape with your loved ones. Your wish may be granted a few kilometres east of Weligama at Marissa Beach. Bordering on the surreal in the beauty stakes, the golden sands lined with palm trees are the epitome of the kind of beach where you’d love to be deserted. Between November and March, Marissa attracts plenty of surfers and the clear water, reefs and rocks make the snorkelling excellent. The currents are strong, though and it’s wise to find out which places are the safest to surf and swim. Girigala Rock, at the bay’s eastern end, has small reefs ideal for snorkelling, fishing and witnessing that infamous golden sunset. For a daily surfing report go to Surfline or Surf-Report.

Still heading east along the coast is the quiet beach town Dickwella, which many pass by as it’s often overshadowed by the better known beaches. Several hotels and resorts have popped up here and just a few kilometres east at Kudawela is Sri Lanka’s only known blow-hole, Hoo-maniya, where high seas force water to shoot up for 20 metres into the air through a chimney.

The competition for which part of the coastline has the most beautiful beach continues at Tangalle, particularly at the coves of Goyambokka, Medaketiya or Marakolliya Beach. Your footprints might blissfully be the only ones on the sand. It would be easy to collapse onto one of these idyllic beaches and not move until the monsoon season (April to September) rains on your parade.

Etched in our memories is the tsunami of 2004, which ravaged the coast. However, Sri Lanka’s catastrophic relationship with water dates back to the biblical times of the Ramayana and the belief that the ruins of an Atlantis-like city sleep just off the southern coast. Long-time resident of the island and science fiction author Arthur C. Clarke wrote about a tidal wave hitting Galle harbour in one of his earliest works, referenced in 1957 in The Reefs of Taprobane. From his impressive list of titles (including 2001: A Space Odyssey) it’s clear he was so inspired by the island, named Ceylon at the time of his arrival in 1954, that he remained until his death in 2008. There is a theory that due to gravitational anomalies on the island’s southern coast, there is an intense gravitational pull to the area. Fact or fiction? As a visitor to this magical region and country several times, I have to admit, I often find myself longing to return.

Sri Lanka is like those grains of sand that seem to seep into the most unlikely of crevices after a visit to the beach. Virtually impossible to instantly remove, by the time they have washed away, you’ll be left with an everlasting salty taste on your lips beckoning you to return.

In 2023 I was a guest of Destination Sri Lanka and for more information go to www.destinationsrilanka.travel 

NOTE: Before booking your holiday to Sri Lanka please check with the World Health Organisation.

Craving more travels? Please stay in touch by subscribing to Fluffy Towel today.

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During Sri Lanka’s Galle Literary Festival in 2011, I was thrilled to meet Candace Bushnell, the author of Sex and the City. The only way to arrive at her Sex in a Sarong party on Taprobane Island was to wade through the sea – it certainly wasn’t the entrance I had planned for a soiree with the best-selling author during the Galle Literary Festival.

Fireflies flit along the shoreline as I step out into the Indian Ocean where the water is as warm as the sky is midnight blue. The tiny Taprobane Island off Sri Lanka’s southern tip flickers in candlelight as we wobble our way along the watery path lit by fire torches and the moon. Despite the crashing waves threatening to send us adrift, we steady ourselves by gripping the sand bank with our toes. Just as the final metre of the path dips further into the ocean, friendly hands reach out to save me from total submersion. A slippery climb up a ladder rewards us with a sea of soggy sarongs and cocktails, as you’d expect at a magical party called Sex in a Sarong.

The guest of honour is adorned in a sparkly pink sarong teamed with Manolo Blahnik shoes. She swans around the home where Arthur C. Clarke (author of 2001: A Space Odyssey, among countless other futuristic novels) once lived. Her fans are charmed with stories about the friends who inspired the infamous book, television series, and films; although she’s adamant she had nothing to do with the big-screen adaptations. She is clearly Carrie, the protagonist, while her Charlotte-inspired friends apparently behave more like Samantha in real life. When asked if she had found her own Mr Big, she answered,  “No. I found Mr Bigger.” A provocative answer considering her Russian ballet-dancing husband spends much of his time in tights.

It was such a thrill meeting ‘Sex and the City’ author Candace Bushnell

Candace wanders over to our little posse, and oblivious to the purpose of the party, a member of our group asks her, “What kind of work do you do?”

Candace pauses for a millisecond and says, “I’m an author.”

“Written anything I’ve heard of?”

“Well…Sex and the City?” Candace looked amused. “And what line of work are you in?” she graciously asks.

“Real estate.” His wife inwardly dies a little. Suddenly, the real-life Carrie Bradshaw is whisked off for more awkward conversations, leaving us to help the real estate’s wife plot her husband’s demise.

The following year at the 2012 Galle Literary Festival, I steal glances at Richard Dawkins hoping for the secrets of the universe. An Atheist’s Feast dinner is held at a remote and sprawling colonial mansion in the jungle and I’m seated at an impossibly long table as the ingenious author gives a thought-provoking talk about his latest novel The Magic of Reality while surrounded by twinkling candles and stars.

A button-popping banquet in the rice paddies with author John Boyne (in the blue shirt holding a glass of wine)

Only the day before, I was reclining on the ground amongst rice paddies contemplating how I was going to fit in the Sri Lankan feast before me. John Boyne sips his chardonnay in between readings from his latest novel The Absolutist, another wartime story almost as devastating as his Boy in the Striped Pyjamas. Not that you’d guess he was capable of such sadness from his delightful demeanour. Little did I know, until I saw the photos my daughter took at the coinciding children’s festival, he had also shared a snippet from his third children’s novel The Terrible Thing That Happened to Barnaby Brocket. It’s a tale about a child named Barnaby who defies the laws of gravity and floats. Richard Dawkins’ take on Barnaby’s predicament would certainly be worth listening to.

The Galle Literary Festivals are as renowned for their button-popping and mind-blowing feasts in stunning surrounds as they are for their brilliant authors; quite literally in fact at the dinner hosted by Australian chef David Thompson. At the final hour, the guru of Thai cuisine discovered there had been a mix-up with the number of guests, which was considerably higher than he had anticipated. In his broad Aussie accent, he recounts his traumatic afternoon that included a monumental melt-down followed by a very hurried visit to the market. He also jokes he made up for the shortfall of food with chillies. I personally discover his warning was sincere and am deemed speechless for about half an hour after an explosive encounter in my mouth. Just as I’m recovering with copious scoops of jasmine rice he makes the rounds and is delighted to discover a couple of fellow Aussies. I mention my temporary ailment which he laughs off with, ‘Oh, stop being such a girl about it!’ All is forgiven as he sympathises with a similar tale where after sampling the highest grade of chilli available he had to ignore the fire in his throat to get through a crazy night in the kitchen; and to save face in front of his fellow chefs.

My initiation into the Galle Literary Festival occurred in 2010 as I sat opposite chef Peter Kuruvita in the serene gardens of the luxurious Jetwing Lighthouse hotel. He’s granted me an impromptu interview for which I’m wearing in the kind of dress perfect for a tropic holiday but inappropriately short and flimsy for the task at hand. Nonetheless, we discuss tea gastronomy and as he imparts passionate advice about poaching seafood in the brew made from tea leaves, I decide sweat is a lot more becoming on men than women; especially on handsome Sri Lankan men like the one before me. For the occasion, my normally dark and sleek bob has frizzed in the insane humidity and has been renamed ‘the frob’. Sweat trails down my face and back as Peter explains how Sri Lankan curries are much lighter than the neighbouring Indian curries because they use less oil, all the ingredients are used fresh, the spice base is larger and the cooking time is shorter.

Peter ends the interview by saying, “To eat Sri Lankan food with cutlery is like making love through a straw.” He bounds out of his seat and as I also stand I’m painfully aware that sweat has glued my dress onto every crevice on my body. When I awkwardly bend over to collect my belongings without trying to expose any more flesh in this conservative culture, I notice the pool of sweat which has collected on my seat. I suspect Peter and the onlooking staff are too distracted (or polite) by my drenched dress to notice the mortifying state of my seat.

Confucius once said: ‘Tea tempers the spirits and harmonises the mind, dispels lassitude and relieves fatigue, awakens thought and prevents drowsiness, lightens or refreshes the body, and clears the perceptive faculties.’ I should have had a cup of tea and a cold shower, but instead, I find another seat and order a double gin and tonic.

To visit southern Sri Lanka without exploring the labyrinth of the time-warped Galle Fort is unthinkable. Its languid pace is normally a quiet reprieve from the maddening traffic weaving beyond its walls. But the very ramparts which protected Galle Fort from the 2004 tsunami and the thirty-year war can’t save it from the excitement of the Galle Literary Festival. Tourists, expats and locals mingle and meander with tuk-tuks swerving through the fort alleys with the freedom of the residing crows; for they are the true keepers of the fortress holding hostage to the secrets and tales within.

It’s of no surprise a good deal of the festival is held within the fort and although much of it is decaying, each time I return a little more has been restored and revived. The Sri Lankans may host one of the most enchanting and stimulating literary festivals around, but they’re not a fictional race. Still struggling with their tumultuous past they live and breathe their history, and yet still reward you with that famous kilo-watt smile; especially at the numerous soggy, temperamental, brilliant, tragic, creative and fumbling admirers of this tiny tear-drop isle.

The following story (edited to the conservative title of ‘Soiree in a Sarong’) has been extracted from ‘Snapshots of Sri Lanka.’ The book contains many wonderful stories about the teardrop isle and proceeds go to Samadhi Grove, an early childhood development centre in the village of Smagipura in southern Sri Lanka. Your generosity is appreciated and for a copy please go to Vivid Publishing

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