As the much-loved capital of Western Australia, Perth hugs the Swan River while the majestic Kings Park, one of the largest inner-city parks in the world, watches over the compact city. There’s so much to do in Perth, so I put together this Perth with Kids four-day itinerary for families and first-time visitors.

Kings Park hovers above Perth’s skyline

While WA’s coastline spans a staggering 12,889km, the cosmopolitan city is laid out in a compact grid. Most shops and eateries are along the Hay and Murray Street malls and the adjacent lanes, streets, and arcades, including the historic Trinity Arcade and London Court.

Perth’s cosmopolitan reputation attracts international acclaim for its fantastic lifestyle and Mediterranean climate, bathing its residents and visitors in glorious year-round weather. Within a 30-minute drive of Perth, you can be in the historic port town of Fremantle, the state’s oldest wine region in the Swan Valley, on spectacular beaches or delving into rural adventures.

Kings Park in bloom

Perth with Kids: Where to stay in Perth

Intercontinental Perth: Located metres from the Hay Street Mall, this hotel offers rooms and suites with floor-to-ceiling windows and city views.

Parmelia Hilton Perth: Offers guest suites and executive rooms in the city’s heart. You might enjoy my review of the Parmelia Hilton Perth.

Vibe Hotel Subiaco: Located in Subiaco, this hotel is worth staying at for its luxe suites and rooftop restaurant and bar, the Storehouse Restaurant. Please check out my Romantic Review of The Vibe Subiaco.

Crown Metropole: Located at the Crown Entertainment Complex, the Crown Metropole has an epic pool and nearby playground on the foreshore.

The Vines Resort: Perfect for a family getaway in the Swan Valley with a pool, mini golf, playground and kangaroo safaris.

The Esplanade Fremantle by Rydges: Located in the heart of Fremantle, you have everything you need in the port-town only a stroll away.

Self-contained apartment in Northbridge: This Airbnb property features two bedrooms and one bathroom and is within walking distance of Perth’s CBD.

His Majesty’s Theatre

Perth with Kids: Getting around Perth

The Central Business District (CBD) is easy to explore on foot, and the Central Area Transit (CAT) is a free bus service operating across the city, but you can also jump on any Transperth bus travelling within the city for free. Trains and buses run from the city, and you can take a train or ferry to Fremantle, South Perth or the Swan Valley region.

Perth with Kids Itinerary Day 1 – Perth City

Let’s start the day with spectacular views of Perth’s city skyline from King’s Park, one of the world’s largest inner-city public parks, and only 1.5 kilometres from the heart of the city. Step out onto the Lotterywest Federation Walkway, weaving through towering karri and marri forest and the Western Australian Botanic Gardens, boasting over 3,000 species of native flora, including a giant 750-year-old boab tree from the East Kimberley region. Enjoy a coffee at the Botanical Café overlooking the Swan River and city or at Zamia Café overlooking the epic playground on May Drive.

Elizabeth Quay Tour with Little Ferry Co, credit Tourism Western Australia

Head to Elizabeth Quay offering a unique perspective of the city skyline from the Elizabeth Quay Bridge while admiring the Spanda, a sculpture representing the rippling Swan River. Stop for a treat at Gusto Gelato and let the kids burn off some energy at the BHP Water Park before heading up the Bell Tower for 360-degree views of the city and Swan River from the Observation Deck.

WA Museum

For lunch, stroll into Northbridge’s Chinatown for dim sum and then spend the afternoon strolling through the WA Museum Boola Bardip to discover WA’s rich history. Don’t miss the Stan Perron Gallery in the heritage-listed Hackett Hall to see the blue whale skeleton suspended from the ceiling and learn about the state’s diverse environment at the Wildlife exhibition.

Since you’re already in Northbridge, further explore this neighbourhood’s food scene from around the world for dinner, such as Sauma (Indian), Good Fortune Roast Duck House (Chinese), Uncle Billy’s Chinese Restaurant (Chinese), No Mafia (Italian) and Viet Hoa (Vietnamese).

London Court

With extra time in Perth’s CBD, you could:

• Explore Perth’s Hay Street and Murray Street malls, as well as the historic Tudor-style London Court, watching for the chiming clocks at the entrances on Hay Street and St George’s Terrace.
• While at Elizabeth Quay, join the Little Ferry Co for a round trip to East Perth and back. If you get off at East Perth, walk across the Matagarup Bridge to Optus Stadium. Or thrill seekers can brave a bridge climb or zipline over the Swan River from the bridge.
• The Barrack Street Jetty is part of the Elizabeth Quay precinct where you can join a cruise to the Swan Valley, Fremantle, Rottnest Island or a leisurely cruise along the Swan River.

Elizabeth Quay Tour with Little Ferry Co, Perth, credit Tourism Western Australia

Perth with Kids Itinerary Day 2 – Swan Valley

Western Australia’s first wine region, the Swan Valley, is about 25 minutes east of Perth’s CBD and is brimming with wineries, breweries, distilleries, restaurants, galleries and activities. The Swan Valley is also home to Caversham Wildlife Park, where you can cuddle a koala or a wombat, feed kangaroos and watch a farm show that includes sheep shearing.

Cuddle a koala at Caversham Wildlife Parth

The Swan Valley has a range of kid-friendly dining spots where you can spend the day sampling, including Bailey Brewing (which has an epic playground), the Margaret River Chocolate Factory, Maison Saint Honóre (famed for its macarons), Ugly Duckling Wines (also home to Stella Gelato Friday to Sunday and live music on the weekends), the Funk Brewshed, Txoko Brewing, and Oakover Grounds, which has aqua trikes and lawn games.

If time permits, browse the antique strip in historic Guildford and the Museum of Natural History -Academy of Taxidermy. While in Guildford, treat yourself at Mimmos Gelato and Alfred’s Kitchen, Perth’s longest-running roadside burger joint, where you can sit around the outdoor fire or in the train carriage.

Kangaroo safari at The Vines

With extra time in the Swan Valley, you could:

• Head over to The Vines Resort for 18 holes of mini golf before joining Perth’s only kangaroo safari aboard golf carts, where you’ll have the chance to mingle with a colony of kangaroos at sunset.
• Be kitted out with camouflage overalls for paintballing at Paintball Skirmish
• Visit the Swan Settler’s Market, where you’ll find plenty of produce from the Swan Valley under one roof, axe throwing, live music, kids’ activities and culinary events.

Sweet treats in the Swan Valley

Perth with Kids Itinerary Day 3 – Fremantle

Located about 30 minutes west of Perth’s CBD, the port city of Fremantle is home to an eclectic mix of artists, bohemians and European flair. The UNESCO World Heritage City showcases 19th-century streetscapes housing pubs, galleries, museums, cafes and accommodation.

Embrace WA’s rich maritime history at the Shipwreck Galleries, where you can learn more about some of Australia’s oldest shipwrecks. The WA Maritime Museum is equally fascinating, so don’t miss the Submarine Ovens, a memorial to the submariners who lost their lives during WWII and the America’s Cup-winning yacht Australia 11.

Immigrant arrivals

Check out the 12-sided limestone Roundhouse, Australia’s oldest building, built in 1831, which offers a bird’s eye view over the Indian Ocean and Fremantle’s streetscape. It was a goal until 1886 with the construction of the Fremantle Prison, where you can take a day tour or, by night, visit the gruesome gallows and trek by foot and boat through the labyrinth of tunnels 20 metres below.

Fremantle’s street art

Head to Fremantle Fishing Boat Harbour for fish and chips before boarding the Ferris wheel in Esplanade Park for a unique perspective of Fremantle, the Fishing Boat Harbour and the Fremantle Shipping Port.

A twirly treat at the Fremantle markets

Established in 1897 and built in a Federation Romanesque style, from Fridays to Sundays, the Fremantle Markets still attract visitors for over 150 stalls of art, jewellery, clothing, indigenous products, buskers, performance art, fresh produce and eateries embracing Fremantle’s multi-cultural community.

Hit the Cappuccino Strip on South Terrace and indulge in the Mediterranean lifestyle at the many cafes, including Gino’s, Benny’s Bar & Café, Ruocco’s Pizzeria, and the Capri Restaurant, one of the longest-running restaurants in Fremantle.

With more time in Fremantle, you could:

• Board the tall sail training ship Leeuwin for a day sail or an extended adventurous voyage on the high seas.
• Find out for yourself if the gothic-style Fremantle Arts Centre is haunted, built in 1864 by convicts as a lunatic asylum and is now a cultural centre.
• Located about 30 minutes by ferry from Fremantle, Rottnest Island is famed for its cute quokkas and stunning lagoons. The carless island offers diverse wildlife, walking and cycling trails, water sports, fishing, surfing, swimming, tours, a cute township and an array of dining and accommodation options.

Rottnest Island’s resident quokkas

Perth with Kids Itinerary Day 4 – The Pinnacles

Just 90 minutes north of Perth is one of the state’s most mysterious natural wonders. Situated in the Nambung National Park, The Pinnacles Desert contains thousands of limestone mounds in all shapes and sizes. While here, pop into the Pinnacles Desert Discovery Centre to learn more about this intriguing phenomenon. I’ve written more about this mystical destination in Australia’s Coral Coast: From the Pinnacles to the Turquoise Coast.

The Pinnacles

Although beautiful in any season or time of day, visiting at sunrise or sunset is the ultimate way to experience the Pinnacles, so an overnight stay is recommended to make the most of your trip.

Make your way to the coast, where you will discover why this part of the state is called the Turquoise Coast. If time permits, head to Sandy Cape, about 13km north of Jurien Bay, for a powdery white beach and sand dunes ideal for sandboarding. Kangaroo Point and Hangover Bay are also popular beaches, and Hansen Bay Lookout offers coastal views. Don’t miss the Thrombolites at Lake Thetis to witness thousands of rocks rising up from the ground believed to be over 3,000 years old.

Pinnacles Desert Discovery Centre

Where to stay near The Pinnacles:

Pinnacles Edge Resort: Located in the Cervantes township, it offers self-contained suites, studios, and hotel rooms.

Cervantes Lodge: Self-contained accommodation with family rooms and ensuite deluxe rooms.

Sandy Beach Reserve has campsites with ablution facilities and incredible views.

RAC Cervantes Holiday Park: Offers two and three-bedroom villas, powered and unpowered sites

Where to eat near The Pinnacles:

The Lobster Shack: Sample the local catch of the day, including lobster, prawns and abalone. While here, enjoy a unique insight into WA’s lobster industry on a factory tour.

Cervantes Bar and Bistro: Seating over 200 guests, the menu impresses with Black Angus beef, Asian influences and fresh seafood platters with locally sourced lobster, prawns, squid, mussels, octopus and fish of the day.

Seashells Café: Located at the RAC Cervantes Holiday Park, it serves casual meals along the foreshore.

Lobster Shack, Cervantes

If you enjoyed this Perth with Kids four-day itinerary, you might like this three-itinerary for big kids 3-day Perth Itinerary: An Unforgettable Getaway with your Besties Or delve deeper into Western Australia with your very own slice of our vast state with Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West – the ultimate travel guide. Click here to order your copy as I only have a few copies left.

Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West is a travel book like no other

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There’s nothing quite like being whisked away to luxury digs where the signature dish is romance and dessert is, um, well, I’m sure you can conjure up some scenarios. Why not go all out and head to a remote pocket of our huge state where no-one will hear your cries of glory with these 9 remote romantic getaways in Western Australia?

9 Remote Romantic Getaways in Western Australia

Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Credit Ryan Chatfield/Cocos Islands

Okay, although not technically part of Western Australia, we’re claiming the Cocos (Keeling) Islands as they can only be reached from Perth within a few hours, and let’s face it, they are the very definition of paradise. Consisting of 27 islands, this tiny atoll in the Indian Ocean is about as remote as you can get, which is just the way you’ll want it with the perfect year-round water temperature of 28 degrees. The compact population of around 600 swells no more than 144 visitors as that’s all that can be accommodated at any one time across the cute bungalows, including the adults-only The Breakers and Seaward. Direction Island and Pulu Belan Madar have been named as two of the country’s best beaches by Tourism Australia for their snorkelling, scuba diving, fishing, birdwatching, island hopping and undisputed beauty.

Cocos Keeling Islands, Indian Ocean

Credit Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Margaret River Region: Willow Wood Glamping Retreat

Set on 100 acres among kangaroos and fluffy highland cows, Willow Wood Glamping Retreat cradles its guests in fluffy towels, fluffy robes, ensuites with Larn’wa products, cloud-like mattresses, sitting rooms, air-conditioning and kitchenettes stocked with coffee machines and freshly baked bread, preserves and granola. By the time I was soaking in the copper bath on the deck beneath the Milky Way, I seriously began to wonder what had taken me so long to try glamping, especially one that blends luxury and nature as seamlessly as the owners Kevin and Amber Kelly have succeeded in doing. I further dwelled on this while horizontal in the spa tent as Amber worked her magic with a Larn’wa treatment infused with Australian botanicals.

381 Ambergate Road, Ambergate

Frankland River: Frankland River Retreat

I’m always dreaming about escaping to a cabin in the woods…as long as the internet, wine, coffee and fluffy towels are in abundance. The Frankland River Retreat fulfils the fantasy and more with a well-appointed kitchenette and bathroom, open-plan living and dining, a queen-sized bed and a deck with sweeping views of rolling paddocks. Truth be told, it’s one of the most remote and romantic getaways in Western Australia that even I had to look it up on a map, and I’ve lived in Perth my whole life. Turns out that even though it feels a universe away from reality, it’s really only an hour from Albany, Denmark, Manjimup and Mount Barker, and a three-and-a-half-hour drive southeast of Perth – the perfect spot for romantic adventures. To find out more about the Frankland River Retreat, please click here.

Frankland River Retreat

Ferguson Valley: Peppermint Lane

The adults-only and discrete cottages at Peppermint Lane Lodge is not the place to bring your kids, but it certainly is a wonderful place to make a baby. A retreat in every sense of the word, there are few distractions from the real world – just romance and a few kangaroos bouncing by. Situated in the Ferguson Valley, where the hills seem to slip into the Indian Ocean, many zoom past the turn-off on the South West highway about an hour north of Margaret River. Let them, leaving more wine, food, art, adventure, wildlife, romance and a few thousand gnomes at the nearby Gnomesville, for you and your lover to relish in.

South West and Great Southern: Private Properties

Glamourous beachside mansions and wilderness escapes in unforgettable locations, Private Properties offers multiple romantic getaways in Western Australia. Many offer multiple living rooms, bathrooms and bedrooms in different configurations as well as tennis courts and pools for exertions beyond the boudoir. They range from sleek and contemporary designs to pre-loved wooden bungalows, many with coastal, vineyard and bush views, and others in incredible garden settings. Massages, romantic dining experiences, housekeeping, itineraries, yoga and possibly even the odd kangaroo are available upon request. For a few suggestions check out 5 Luxurious Margaret River Properties.

Photo provided by Karijini Eco Retreat taken by Christian Fletcher

Pilbara: Karijini Eco Retreat, Pilbara

For an authentically Australian outback experience, get back to nature at Karijini Eco Retreat. Set within Karijini National Park and owned by the Gumala Aboriginal Corporation, you can spread your love of the environment with safari tents made from recycled materials and with limited power, you’re guaranteed to smoulder within the romantic glow. There is a range of sleeping options, but the deluxe eco-tents with private en-suites, quality bedding, stylish décor and decks only adds to the romance and makes for a star-studded experience. The onsite Australian-inspired restaurant offers outback flavours undoubtedly with red kangaroos shyly observing in the distance. Located 1400km north of Perth and 80km north-east of Tom Price, this is one of the most remote and romantic getaways in Western Australia – the isolation is glorious, especially with the juxtaposition of lush streams, waterfalls, pools and ferns against the burnt ochres and faded scrub greens sure to romance your honey. Not to mention those plunging gorges millions of years old guaranteed to evoke at least one, “Hey gorgeous,” pun.

Katanning: Premier Mill Hotel

You mightn’t associate the tiny Katanning town located in the Wheatbelt with luxury. But after just one night in the historic flour mill converted into the luxurious Premier Mill Hotel, you might just change your mind. Each of the individualised 22 rooms is a moody industrial oasis and a throwback to the glory years as a profitable flour mill. Exposed timber walls, steel beams and vaulted open ceilings make for an unforgettable stay. The Old Mill Whistle once sounded for the workers and nowadays the whistle blows at midday as a celebration of heritage meets contemporary design. The boutique hotel houses a Dome café and the Cordial Bar in the basement, which was once used as a wine cellar and now serves cocktails, tapas and sodas – a delightful reminder of the original owner Frederick Piesse, whose vision transformed the town and manufacturing lemonade was just one of his many ventures. Katanning is on the WA Public Silo Trail and click here for 8 Reasons to follow this unique trail.

Albany: Beach House at Bayside

At the Beach House at Bayside, each of the Mediterranean-inspired rooms are exquisitely decorated and the elaborate breakfast spreads certainly set you up for a day of exploring. As Albany’s premier bed and breakfast accommodation, owners Craig and Sally Pullin offer all their guests staying in each of their 10 guest rooms a personalised service, including food and activity recommendations such as nearby walking and cycling trails, the National ANZAC Centre, The Gap and Natural Bridge and into neighbouring regions such as Denmark, Walpole, Porongurups and the Stirling Ranges. Albany is on the 1000km Public Silo Trail and reminiscent of a British seaside village, this is one of the most romantic getaways in Western Australia that beckons you to snuggle up after a day of rugged beauty.

Lucky Bay, Esperance

Lucky Bay, Esperance

Esperance: Esperance Chalet Village

Esperance’s isolation already appeals to those craving an uninhibited frolic on its pristine world-class beaches. This cluster of rustic chalets holds no airs and its recent refurbishment has taken care of all those creature comforts; promising countless opportunities to take care of each other. With plush bedding, contemporary décor, flat-screen TVs, well-equipped kitchens and reverse cycle air-conditioning, you’re well placed to explore with your partner-in-crime the ridiculously beautiful scenery, plus several secret enclaves within a lusty moan. With salty limbs entwined, choose between the spacious two-bedroom abodes or cosy A-Frame chalets nestled alongside Bandy River at the Esperance Chalet Village.

For more ideas to knock the pants off your lover please check out 6 Naked Mini-breaks 

If you’d like more ideas for romantic getaways in Western Australia, please order your copy of Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West coffee table book, a travel book like no other.

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Credit Matt Fieldes

Cruising through the Kimberley is the ultimate bucket list item for many West Australians. I took a sneaky peek onboard the boutique cruise company Kimberley Quest for a taste of luxury.

Credit Matt Fieldes

As the sun dipped into the Indian Ocean at Fremantle Fishing Boat Harbour, casting peachy hues across the expansive horizon, the Kimberley Quest lived up to the hype. My main reference to luxury yachting has evolved from Bravo TV’s reality show Below Deck, where the crew’s misadventures often surpassed their cashed-up guest’s cruises through the Mediterranean and the Caribbean.

Fremantle Fishing Boat Harbour at sunset

After speaking to the crew on board, I’m pleased to report that guests of the Kimberley Quest experience none of the drama aired in this ‘unreal’ depiction of luxury yachting. The most dramatic event we experienced that night was when the vessel’s helicopter flew off into the sunset.

This sleek vessel is the most idyllic way to explore the many awaiting adventures of the Kimberley. Ancient Aboriginal rock art, rugged cliffs, secret river systems, wildlife galore, natural caves, hidden rainforests, pristine beaches, mighty waterfalls and breathtaking sunsets are just some of the sights you’ll get to experience onboard.

King George Falls

The cruising options are numerous, spanning from the four-day Taste of the Kimberley, which includes a Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm tour, to the extensive 21-day Beyond Adventure cruise for an epic voyage. Luxury aside, it’s the only way to explore the Kimberley as much of this remote region is only accessible from the coast with experts guiding the way.

Credit Taryn Yeates

Certified as an Advanced Eco-Tourism company, itineraries run from February to October. There will never be more than 18 guests on board with nine cabins, plus the professional crew to wait on you hand and foot and a local naturalist.

Discovering ancient rock art

The spacious cabins come in various configurations with ensuites, air-conditioning, quality linen and large viewing windows. Minimalistic in style, you don’t cruise the Kimberley to sit in your cabin, no matter how comfortable it is. However, they offer the perfect retreat for a bit of downtime.

While the helipad defines the pinnacle of luxury (what a way to make an entrance or exit), the spa, alfresco decks, outdoor dining, a widescreen plasma TV, extensive library, internet and open wheelhouse are available in between the excitement. Tender excursions include guided walks, fishing, swimming, fishing, discovering ancient rock art, speedboating, beaches, scenic heli flights,  humpback whale watching from July to September or exploring the underworld world.

Credit Taryn Yeates

As you’d imagine, food plays a big part in the experience and the menu features freshly caught seafood, some that you might have even caught yourself, as well as WA’s excellent fresh produce, including premium meat, freshly baked goods and decadent snacks. Caffeine addicts needn’t worry either, as there’s an espresso machine available at any time of the day or night, and the vessel is fully licenced; beverages can be pre-ordered or you can BYO tipples.

Ok, so let’s get down to the delicate matter of cost. Remembering this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many, and it’s all-inclusive (excursions, food, drinks and board), it works out to be around $1,000 per person per day. With 25 years of experience and countless awards and accolades, the Kimberley Quest offers the ultimate bespoke and unique adventures.

Now has never been the more perfect time to explore the unspolit wonders of the Kimberley. General Manager Clare Marquis said the last-minute availability was due to WA’s ongoing border restrictions, providing discerning West Australian travellers a rare opportunity, “Our tour schedule is usually sold out many months in advance, so it usually requires much forward planning.”

Fancy a last-minute opportunity to tick off this bucket list adventure? They have rare availability on two expeditions in March 2022 on the 21 Day Beyond Adventure and the 8 Day Northern Quest departing from Kununurra in May 2022.

If you’re up for more decadence, why not time your visit with Broome’s Shinju Matsuri festival (October 2022 dates to be announced) or Kununurra’s Ord Valley Muster.

For more information go to kimberleyquest.com.au or @kimberleyquest on Facebook or Instagram

Carmen Jenner was a guest of Kimberley Quest.

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Shinju Matsuri is Japanese for ‘Festival of the Pearl’ and Broome celebrates the excitement and romance as a world-renowned producer of South Sea Pearls. The annual pearl festival rekindles a time when the Japanese, Chinese, Malay, Koreans, Filipino and Europeans flocked to Broome from the late 1800s to join in with this prosperity. Shinju Matsuri is a testament to Broome’s generosity as it tempts 1,000s of annual visitors in a whirlwind of cultural flair for over 50 years and rejoices during August and September.

It’s easy to spot my ride when I land at Broome’s International Airport. The pedicab and Schmicko’s appropriately tropical shirt gives it away. His name derives from his former life as a tradie (hence the “o”) and because he always does a good job. He’s full of tales about his beloved town as we whizz past old homesteads with lattice windows in Brunswick red and green.

We make a pit stop at the Japanese Cemetery, one of the largest Japanese cemeteries not related to war, and the final resting place of hundreds of Japanese, many of who died as a result of the dangerous work carried out for the pearling industry. Most came from the Japanese village of Taraji (Broome’s sister city) to seek their fortune in the pearling industry as a result of the decline in the whaling industry. They didn’t know what the decompression sickness known as the bends were back then and it was a one size fits all for the clunky dive suits; I shudder at their doomed fate.

The Chinese and Muslim cemeteries are next door and set the tone for Broome’s multiculturalism, aka Broome creole, instigated by the pearling industry which also attracted Malays, Timorese, Filipinos, Europeans and the indigenous, who were often kidnapped and forced into slave labour. No wonder the town has a wild west reputation as the streets were once lined with saloons, bars, brothels and opium dens constructed from tin, which was cyclone-resistant and one of the few materials they had access to because it was easy to transport.

Oaks Broome Hotel

The following day Kerry Bennett, owner of Instyle Adventures, collects me from my spacious apartment at the Oaks Broome and we delve further into Broome’s intriguing past punctuated with a visit to Cygnet Pearl’s showroom in town. Like any self-respecting lady living in Broome, Kerry is already doned in her pearls because if you don’t wear them regularly they lose their lustre; sounds like a perfectly reasonable excuse for glamour. I’m offered a strand to borrow for tonight’s Sunset Long Table dinner on Cable Beach for Shinju, the annual festival of the pearl. Given it can take up to ten years to collect enough pearls of the same characteristics for just one strand, I suspect they cost more than my car. I decide the best place to keep them safe is around my neck.

Sammy the Dragon is in full swing when we arrive at the Saturday Broome Courthouse Markets; he only comes to life during Shinju much like Chinese New Year. Local (a prerequisite) produce, crafts and transient art galleries are interspersed in between boab trees. The Kimberley hues of turquoise and red pindan are ever present in the works of art inspired by the landscape, especially at Gantheaume Point, which is next on the itinerary. Adjoining Cable Beach, the red cliffs offer spectacular views of the coastline and it’s also the home of Broome’s first spa named Anastasia’s Pool where the high tides create a whirlpool effect in the carved-out rock.  We conclude our tour with a late lunch at Matso’s Brewery, which is an institution that distributes its ales, lagers, ciders and ginger beers Australia-wide.

Pedicab and 4WD aren’t the only way to explore the region. It doesn’t get any more quintessential than a camel ride at sunset on Cable Beach, although a reeve on Harley-Trike certainly gets your motor running – check out Broome Vroom. Or board a hovercraft for a glide over the mudflaps and dinosaur footprints or a spectacular flight in a light aircraft over the horizontal falls 200km north to Cape Leveque.

Along with the crocodile cautions, the beach at Cape Leveque ought to come with a warning because reality will hurt just a little more when thinking back to this divine tip of the Dampier Peninsular. Extend your stay at a variety of camping and accommodation options at the Aboriginal-owned wilderness camp. Splash out on a deluxe safari tent with uninterrupted Indian Ocean views at Kooljaman at Cape Leveque, and order the Bush Butler service so you never have to leave your tent. Soften the blow of having to retch yourself off the beach at the alfresco Raugi’s Café which uses ingredients foraged locally like Kakadu plum and indigenous herbs.

Nearby is Australia’s oldest operating pearl farm Cygnet Bay Pearls. What began as a small family business in unchartered territory, Dean Brown arrived in 1946 with a dream and was the first non-Japanese to learn how to culture pearls. He’s equally famous for cultivating the world’s largest perfectly round South Sea pearl. His humble bark hut still stands, and 70 years later Cygnet Bay Pearls is a third-generation global company.

Cygnet Bay Pearl

You may be overcome once again with that overwhelming feeling of not wanting to leave. The good news is you don’t have to. Sleep off a music session, languid meal or pearl meat degustation (also available at Cable Beach Club) at Shell @ Cygnet Bay in a tranquil en-suited safari tent or cottage. In fact, this is an excellent spot to base yourself when visiting indigenous communities, getting up close and personal with the horizontal waterfalls by boat, or joining a Giant Tides Tour formed by two-metre waterfalls over the reefs during high tide.

The flight back to Broome offers the kinds of views to cause a deluge of envy-invoking instagram posts. Whale watching is still technically on my bucket list, however, I was blessed to witness a breaching whale just after take-off. Shame the photo was blurry in my excitement.

Carmen Jenner was a guest of Australia’s Northwest Tourism, Shinju Matsuri, Oaks Broome, Virgin Airlines, Air Kimberley, Shinju Matsuri Pedicab Co Broome WA, Instyle Adventures and Cygnet Bay Pearls

www.australiasnorthwest.com; www.shinjumatsuri.com.au

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Kalbarri Skywalk

Situated in Australia’s Coral Coast and where the mighty Murchison River meets the Indian Ocean, lies Kalbarri. The undiluted pleasures of red ochre and turquoise are laid abundant just as nature intended. Close enough to be reached in a day, Kalbarri is far enough away to be one of Western Australia’s ultimate escapes.

Driveable from Perth

Even if you’re short on time, the six-hour drive north of Perth is relatively easy and for those lucky enough to have the luxury of time, the journey to Kalbarri along the Indian Ocean Drive poses plenty of attractions to break up the journey. Alternatively, you could take the Brand Highway for 570 kilometres, which is about the same distance. Travelling during the wildflower season from late July to late September makes the drive is even prettier.

Plenty attractions along the way

Don’t miss the Pinnacles Desert in Nambung National Park about two hours north of Perth. Its magical at dawn or dusk, which means an overnight stay in Cervantes or Jurien Bay is ideal. For more information about what else to do in this region check out my article Australia’s Coral Coast: from the Pinnacles to the Turquoise Coast.

You can break the journey up even more at the coastal town of Geraldton. Or take a scenic drive through the Chapman Valley or visit the historic (and reputedly haunted) Oakabella Homestead and Tea Rooms in Northhampton. Once you hit Port Gregory, it’s almost impossible to miss the bubble-gum hues of Pink Lake at Hutt Lagoon. The dramatic drive along Red Bluff Road into Kalbarri offers jaw-dropping views as the turquoise Indian Ocean crashes up against the coastal cliffs.

Further extend your trip north to frolic with the dolphins in Monkey Mia or visit our tropical Australia’s North West in Carnarvon, Exmouth and Broome.

Jaw-dropping views from Red Bluff Road

Sleep beneath the stars or in luxury

Kalbarri’s accommodation ranges from camping and caravan sites to luxurious resorts. Regardless of where you stay, bookings are essential in advance. The self-contained two and three-bedroom units at the homey Pelican Shore Villas are directly across the road from the shore where the Murchison River meets the Indian Ocean. For a splurge, the Kalbarri Edge Resort has a variety of studios, one and two-bedroom suites with kitchenettes, some with spas, balconies and BBQ’s, a swimming pool and the fully licenced Edge Restaurant. Exuding a tropical feel, both laid-back resorts are perfect to base yourself from to explore the region and they cater well to longer-term stays.

Pelican feeding happens daily at 8.45am

Self-catering to upmarket dining

Pretty much everything within the Kalbarri township is walkable including many cosmopolitan eateries including the upmarket Upstairs Restaurant and Buddhas Bites, while both pubs serve wholesome food with live music. For casual dining, Pelly’s Café has views over the estuary where the pelican feeding happens like clockwork at 8.45am every day as dozens of these magnificent birds emerge from the river. Apparently, there are a couple of characters within the flock including one named Greedy who is partial to people’s bottoms.

Finlay’s Kalbarri

The family and dog-friendly Finlay’s Kalbarri is renowned for its fresh and local seafood, micro-brewery and buzzing Sunday sessions with live music.

Self-catering is another way to enjoy Kalbarri, especially during the peak season when some of the cafes are booked to capacity. There’s no shortage of beautiful places to have a picnic and you can pick up your supplies from the local IGA. I’ve heard you can buy lobster off the back of the boat in the harbour – just ask any local and they’ll point you in the right direction. Or you could try your hand at catching bream, whiting, mulloway, taylor and crabs from the riverbanks beneath the river gums and sheoak trees, fully supervised by kangaroos and wild goats.

View of Pink Lake with Kalbarri Scenic Flights

Aerial adventures

Sometimes, travel is all about perspective and Kalbarri Scenic Flights delivers enviable red ochre, earthy greens and turquoise views galore. They have a range of tours covering Pink Lake at Hutt Lagoon, Red Bluff, the Murchison River, Pot Alley, Mushroom Rock, Monkey Mia and the Abrolhos Islands, where you can land and swim on the beach. As we flew over frolicking dolphins, whales and seals, we certainly understood how Lucky Bay gained its name.

Wagoe Beach Quad Bike Tours

Sandy adventures

As our beach buggies carved their way through the powdery dunes of Wagoe Beach, breaching Humpback whales performed water aerobics alongside us. With the sun slowly starting its descent, we all paused on our 20-kilometre adventure to take in the turquoise Coral Coast, now saturated in the evening’s golden glow. Although the sand is slippery in parts, the buggies are easy to manoeuver through the dunes and on the beach, and for the more confident, Wagoe Beach Quad Bike Tours also offer quad bikes.

Blue Holes

Postcard-perfect beaches

Kalbarri’s incredible beaches offer a refreshing reprieve from the heat, especially in the warmer months from November to March. Chinaman’s Beach is conveniently located in town and the tranquil bay is peppered with swimmers, stand-up paddleboards and boats languidly enjoying the slow pace. The picturesque Blue Holes a few minutes away is protected by a reef and is ideal for snorkelling. There are several secluded coves reached by a trek down the cliffs and look out for the signage along Red Bluff Road. Lucky Bay is about 30 minutes south and attracts campers amongst its pristine sand dunes.

Kalbarri Wilderness Cruise

Mighty Murchison River

The mighty Murchison River flows for 820 kilometres from WA’s mid-west region to the Indian Ocean, just before carving a gorge through Kalbarri National Park. You can abseil down the gorge with Kalbarri Abseil, ride and swim with horses along its might banks with Big River Ranch or trek and canoe into an isolated part of the gorge with Kalbarri Adventure Tours.

Kalbarri Wilderness Cruises offer morning and sunset river cruises past the red Tumblagooda Sandstone cliffs unique to the region, and aged at 400 million years of age, they span all the way from Carnarvon to Kalbarri. Abundant in wildlife, on the way back from our cruise kangaroos were chilling on the riverbank as fish were jumped out of the water and a flock of seagulls escorted us safely back to town.

Kalbarri Skywalk

For breathtaking views of the park, the Kalbarri Skywalk opened in June 2020 and suspends 100 metres above the Murchison Gorge across two platforms. The path to the skywalk is flat and an easy stroll bordered by interpretative signage and artworks of local fauna. Also in Kalbarri’s National Park, is Nature’s Window, which is an easy one-kilometre walk (return) and also marks the beginning and the end of the challenging Loop and Z Bend treks. We soon discover the truth in the locals’ advice tackling all treks early in the morning during the height of summer.

Kalbarri needs your support

Ravaged by Cyclone Seroja in April 2021, Kalbarri is slowly re-opening to visitors so now is the perfect time to plan your journey to one of the state’s most captivating destinations. Please be patient while they recover and stay in contact to monitor their progress.

Travel Tips:

• Always plan ahead no matter where you travel in Western Australia. Since the pandemic bookings have become essential, which is a small price to pay in exchange for our isolated beauty.
• Take care in the warmer months and note that it’s at least 10 degrees warmer in the National Park. Always cover up, use sunscreen and carry at least three litres of water. Temperatures can be extreme and there’s a local saying, “It’s lucky if the rain even reaches the ground.”
• If you’re planning on independently trekking, snorkelling, diving or going off-road, its always wise to let someone know of your plans. It’s easy to get lost in remote Western Australia.
• From November to March, the weather is hot, dry and windy, which is ideal for snorkelling, paddle boarding and the beach. Cooler days are experienced from April to October, where hiking is enjoyable and the wildflowers are blooming.

Carmen Jenner was a guest of Tourism Western Australia and the operators mentioned in this article. For more information go to www.australiascoralcoast.com 

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Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West is Western Australia’s ultimate travel guide. This 246-page coffee table book shares the many natural wonders, cultural enclaves, quirky anecdotes and surprising revelations about Western Australia.

The rolling vineyards of the Ferguson Valley

Naturally, we covered Margaret River in Australia’s Southwest and caught up with celebrity chef Peter Kuruvita. We picked out a few lesser-known drops in the Ferguson Valley, just two hours south of Perth. Or float through the Peel region aboard a houseboat and swim with dolphins in Mandurah and Bunbury.

Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West explores Australia’s Southwest

Join us on a flight over the pink hues of Lake Hillier in Esperance in the Golden Outback. We couldn’t resist heading to the rugged coastline of Australia’s Great Southern. Or head north to Australia’s Northwest to Broome and Karijini.

An unlikely character on Broome’s Cable Beach

While co-writing and co-producing this book and immersing myself in my home state of Western Australia, I couldn’t help but notice the parallels of my transition into adulthood to that of Perth’s coming of age.

Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West explores Karijini National Park

There’s no denying Western Australia is remote. We invite you to gaze up at sheets of bright night skies. But it’s worth the journey for its wilderness coupled with its unexpected sophistication. Even the most zealot local will be compelled to dip into this unique book, with Western Australia playing the beautiful yet aloof protagonist.

Winning an IPPY at the Independent Book Publishers Awards in New York City!

Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West reached international acclaim in New York City – one of my favourite places on earth. In May 2019, we won a gold IPPY Award in the Australia/New Zealand regional non-fiction category at the Independent Book Publisher’s Awards in New York City. How exciting!

If you would like a copy of this extraordinary travel guide of Western Australia, I’d love to hear from you at carmen@fluffytowel.com.

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The powdery sands of Sandy Cape

Cast your mind back to a simpler time when seaside holidays were all about family and friends. Where a splash in the surf, board games and fish ‘n chips at sunset were the makings of cherished memories.

There aren’t many places left in the world where you can enjoy natural wonders and expansive beaches in relative peace. That is, until you drive a couple of hours north of Perth along the Indian Ocean Drive to Cervantes and Jurien Bay on the Turquoise Coast.

Spectacular views of The Pinnacles at sunset

The Pinnacles

The Pinnacles Desert is one of the state’s most mysterious natural phenomenas. While visiting at any time is a special experience, the true magic happens at sunrise or sunset. You’ll be rewarded with star-studded views of the sky as the sun slips away and the moon rises behind you. It’s a spectacle to behold as the pinnacles morph into shadowy peaks and valleys, especially as kangaroos, emus and lizards bask in the afterglow.

To truly enjoy the Pinnacles in all their glory at sunrise or sunset, staying for at least one night is essential. That’s what the brochures will tell you, but then you’d be missing the point of the Turquoise Coast. Besides, there’s always the danger of hitting a kangaroo when driving at dusk in the outback.

Where to stay and eat in Cervantes

Cervantes is an idyllic coastal town about fifteen kilometres north of the Pinnacle Desert. Its possible to drive your car along the beach and it’s quite common to see dogs let off the leash running freely alongside their owner’s car.

The Pinnacle Edge Resort is situated in the Cervantes township and is within staggering distance to the coast and country club. The resort offers a variety of self-contained suites, studio hotel rooms, a pool and the onsite Europa Anchor restaurant and is ideal for families, groups and couples on short or long-term getaways. In complete juxtaposition to its exotic surrounds, the Pinnacles Edge Resort makes the rugged landscape just that little more hospitable and accessible to any traveller.

Still a fishing town, one of the top tourist attractions in Cervantes is the Lobster Shack. A tour of the factory provides a unique insight into WA’s lobster industry. Or try one of their fishing charters (where you can actually catch fish), sea lion tours and lobster pot pulling. The fresh menu featuring lobster, prawns and abalone feeds hundreds of tourists every day.

Natural attractions galore

Apart from the beautiful beaches and boating, the region is adorned with lookouts and basins. Sandy Cape is 13km north of Jurien Bay and the snow-white sand dunes are perfect for sandboarding.

The forest of grass trees, officially named Xanthorrhoea (formerly known as blackboys) in Wangarren Nature Reserve are added treat 24 kilometres south of Cervantes.  The ancient thrombolites at Lake Thetis and the extensive cave system in Stockyard Gully National Park have on more than one occasion further delayed the return to reality. Wildflower season runs from June to September.

Stockyard Gully Cave

Despite the many natural wonders of the region, it’s the turquoise and sandy white hues that stay with you. Quite often you can have the entire beach to yourself.

The Turquoise Coast might well be the ultimate Western Australian beach getaway.

How did The Pinnacles even get there?

The mysterious pinnacles

Situated in Nambung National Park, the Pinnacles Desert contains thousands of limestone mounds in varying heights, shapes and widths. As the sand shifts, eerie shadows appear in stark contrast to the variation in soils and luminous sky. It’s yet to be confirmed when the pinnacles emerged from the desert floor. However, a trip to the architecturally designed Pinnacles Desert Discovery Centre sheds some light with estimates as long ago as 500,000 years.

If time is on your side head north to Kalbarri and check out my article 10 reasons to visit Kalbarri.

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Feel the power of the engine between your thighs on a Harley-Davidson trike tour through Broome.

“My name is Roger and I’ll be your guide today. Welcome to the Mango Tango Tour,” drawls our driver as he caresses his white Harley-Davidson trike, our mode of transport. We climb aboard the curvaceous blonde and hit the highway to sip wine at a mango plantation.

This is our second trip to Broome and I can see why so many travellers get as far as Cable Beach and never leave. It’s peak season and nowhere feels crowded. All is serene … except for now.

As we speed along I rename the tour the Mango Jitterbug. I wonder if my face will ever return to its normal configuration and decide to spend the rest of the tour smiling, just in case my expression is frozen. But after passing a truck full of livestock, I learn a closed-mouth smile is essential. It’s also a good idea not to wear a skirt unless you want to distract the driver of a 10-tonne truck as it hurtles towards you. And, believe me, wearing contact lenses, white clothing or sticky insect-magnet lip-gloss is not advisable.

Pulling off the highway, we enter an oasis of mango trees. After we’ve picked out gravel and insects from our teeth, we approach a hut to sip wine, port and liquor coaxed from mangoes. We speculate that this was possibly the same mango plantation we considered buying years ago. But back then I had to admit that we didn’t know anything about mangoes. Now our hostess confesses she doesn’t have a clue either and sends all the fruit to Berry Farm in Margaret River to be turned into preserves, beauty products and beverages.

Hand me that wine bottle, please; commiseration is in order. Especially considering the modest price tag of the plantation back then. But a mango smoothie cools my mood and we climb aboard for a tour of the town.

Roger dishes out recommendations on the best places to buy pearls, eat fish and chips and drink beer. After a photo shoot at the port, we head back to the Cable Beach Club Resort.

I didn’t look like this!

With shaky legs and our pulses racing, we clamber off the Harley. It no longer matters that I can’t get an appointment for a facial at the booked-out day spa, as I’ve just received an unexpected exfoliation. Laughter lines have been sandblasted into my face. I’m hooked. Broome, vroom.

Enjoy your own mango-flavoured sandblast with Broome Trike Tours or if you’d like to read more about Broome please click here to order a copy of Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West

Originally published in The Australian September 2007

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