Our day’s begin shrouded in mist, as the yoga pavilion sighs with guests working their way through the Sun Salutation routine. Despite the obscenely early hour and chilly air, I’m in a state of bliss. Who am I? I don’t normally “do” early mornings, or even yoga for that matter, and yet I’m happily performing my poses in a dreamlike state.

We unravel our bodies into horizontal positions beneath our blankets with the intention of emptying our minds as our bendy instructor guides us through a meditation session. Her white robes billow a trail of incense in their wake. Truth be told, I’m a bit distracted by my stomach grumbling in anticipation of a bowl of steaming hot porridge, rice and lentil balls with coconut chutney, fresh fruit and freshly ground coffee; praise the Lord, or Ganesh, caffeine is on the menu.

Among the poolside cottages, garden tented cottages and a three-bedroom cottage, Shreyas sleeps guests from all walks of life; including my 11-year-old daughter who, with some gentle coaxing, approaches the vegetarian menu, yoga and chanting with mild amusement. Families are more than welcome and in fact one of the guests commends me on exposing my cherub to such a wonderful experience and plans on doing the same when her own daughter is of a similar age.

Over 70 staff members tend to our every whim without us even realising it most of the time; someone always seems to be on hand to answer the questions which haven’t even popped into our heads yet. My favourite act of kindness, however is the shoe turning: whenever I enter a building and remove my sandals they are magically facing in the right direction for me to slip my feet into when I leave. This isn’t a deed of subservience but instead a belief that no-one is superior or inferior and is only performed if someone happens to walk by and notices the shoes are facing the wrong direction. The exact balance of discretion and service is an art very few retreats have mastered as seamlessly as Shreyas.

Hundreds upon hundreds of freshly cut marigolds and roses from local nurseries adorn the grounds as playful squirrels flit across our path for secret tree meetings. Inspired by the Rajasthan style, the private tented garden cottages embrace the natural surroundings with open bathrooms and patios designed to while away the day in between sessions. The rooms are aptly awarded Sanskrit names like shanti meaning peace or vairagya meaning detachment. The three-bedroom cottage is perfect for groups or families, while the poolside cottages inspire midnight swims. As the General Manager shares, “It’s a home away from home.” When can I move in?

Despite the daily schedule, nothing ever feels rushed and there is never any obligation to participate if you don’t feel like it. One of the few decisions to make is whether to enjoy the company of the kingfishers or parrots, find a secret place to flop, like the private pavilion overlooking the community garden or round up the troupes for a game of cricket; of course there’s a cricket pitch, this is India after all.

If I could bare to leave the grounds, I might also take an excursion to one of the local villages, temples, markets or visit the nearby orphanage with food sourced from the property. A synchronised abhyanga Ayurveda massage performed by two therapists working in unison is suggested; I surrender and am grateful another decision is made for me especially considering the number of treatments on the day spa menu.

Shreyas is deemed as one of the finest yoga retreats around and fellow guest Annemaree Rowley of yoga tour company Cool Calm Collected agrees, “Imagine a stunningly beautiful, rustic, peaceful yogic oasis amidst 25 acres of natural surrounds. The yoga takes me back to my original training, classical and gently presented. The service is impeccable, so attentive and considerate. The delightful cuisine is vegetarian at its best. But what sets Shreyas apart from anywhere I have been? It’s cosy! Comfort, no matter where I sit, lie down or curl up. I feel as though I am a guest in someone’s home alight with not only candles, but with love.”

Even the staff participate in daily yoga and chanting sessions. A wonderful perk of the job given guests travel from all over the world to this boutique yoga retreat in India. Approximately 40% are repeat customers, with many returning annually on a quest to indulge in limitless yoga, weight loss, to unwind from their busy lives or to work through relationship or emotional issues. One such practice is Yoga Nidra which builds on pratyahara, referring to the withdrawal of the senses, and is likened to a conscious deep sleep designed for spiritual exploration. It’s one of the deepest kinds of relaxation and reduces tension and other ailments and after just one session, I was enlightened; regardless of whether you’re experiencing pleasure or pain, you’re always going to be left yearning, whether that be for more pleasure or less pain. Indeed, as months later, I crave even just one more hour at Shreyas.

On our final night, a candlelit dinner awaits in the garden by a warming bonfire. The nights and early mornings are crisp during the southern Indian winter, but many a fair skin will suffer beneath the sun’s intensity during the day. Tonight’s delicious menu begins with a soup of tomato and mint shorba and a beetroot, cucumber and dill salad, followed by okra with baby onion, saute ridge gourd, pink lentils with multi-grain roti and brown rice with yoghurt and pappadums with a grand finale of grilled pineapple with orange sauce and fresh fruits. Most of the ingredients are sourced from the onsite organic garden and before the food is prepared, the staff chant a prayer. The menu is customised based on the initial consultation with an Ayurveda doctor, depending on your personal health requirements and tastes.

Every aspect of Shreya’s is dedicated to embracing the holistic philosophy of yoga to cleanse the body, calm the mind and energise the soul. I suspect few guests miss the absence of room service, meat, alcohol or a TV in their room as there’s a luxurious theatre room. Especially when you have the luxury to indulge entirely in your wellbeing within the exotic embrace of Indian hospitality.

Getting there: Fly into Bangalore from most major Asian capitals and Shreyas will greet you at the airport.

Rates: Nightly rates start at US$280 single share or $S$380 double share, but few guests stay for just one night. Packages include Panchakarma, Silent Retreat, Ayurveda Rejuvenation, Yoga Retreat, The Joy of Giving, Wellness for the Soul, Weight Management, Culinary Experience and Detox. Prices include accommodation, meals, group yoga sessions and use of all the facilities.

The post An unmissable boutique yoga retreat in India appeared first on Fluffy Towel Travel.

Escaping India’s chaos and eye-watering smog, we set sail aboard a houseboat on an Alleppey backwater cruise in Kerala. Located in the southwest corner of India and covering the Kollam, Kottayam, Alappuzha and Kochi districts, the waterways snake for 900 kilometres. As the Arabian Sea washes ashore, you’re about as far away from the manic pace of India as you can get without leaving the country.

Rainbow Cruises’ houseboats

Located in the heart of Alleppey, 85 kilometres from the Kochi airport, and with a range of companies to choose from, I’ve opted for Rainbow Cruises; the same one Anthony Bourdain used during an episode of No Reservations. Fulfilling my floating fantasy, our air-conditioned houseboat has two bedrooms, each with a four-poster bed and a private bathroom with hot showers and flushing toilets. An open dining room captures the breeze or can be closed to keep out the heat and any stowaway bugs. But it’s the lounge deck and its view that captivates me the most on an Alleppey backwater cruise.

Known as kettuvallom, the traditional wooden houseboats were once used as rice barges transporting spices and the odd passenger along the lush backwaters of Kerala. Not one nail is used as the boats are bound together using planks of jack-wood with coir rope and coated with black resin made from boiled cashew nut shells. The restoration of the boats, many of which have passed their century mark, have been given new life with the help of the tourism trade. A far cry from their humble beginnings, these floating beauties range from cosy one-bedroom love pads to rambling villas.

Palm trees lean over the water’s edge to greet us. Breaks in the foliage provide glimpses into a world of rice paddies where every shade of green is startled by iridescent saris in blues, oranges, reds and pinks.

Chants in the distance and snippets of broken chatter are punctuated by wood chopping. Narrow cottages line the river and we savour voyeuristic glimpses into the locals’ daily lives, often dominated by manual labour imposed by the land. Little did I know I would soon become part of the show. Outdoor kitchens offer wafts of frying bread freshly kneaded before dunked in coconut oil. This land is bountiful with rice, fish, mangoes, coconuts, grains and home-reared livestock like cows, goats and chickens providing milk, eggs and meat.

The villages remain relatively isolated from the chaos of India, with a steady flow of ferries, barges, canoes and houseboats along the waterways. Apart from the odd boat behaving like a crazy bus in Mumbai, the pace is likened to its tranquil Sri Lankan neighbour; or maybe that’s because I’m in a food coma.

Much like the cows grazing along the river banks, we eat constantly on an Alleppey backwater cruise. Every meal our personal chef prepares is a banquet of curries with freshly ground spices of cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and chillies adorning locally caught fish and the coconuts that were only just dangling from the trees.

Lunch consists of vegetable sambal, bean curry, grilled fish, fried chicken, the woody-tasting dish of Ayurvedic bark, papadums and the ubiquitous steamed rice. My body joins the rhythm of the putting engine as we purr along on a quest to buy tiger prawns for dinner and coconuts from Uncle John’s seafood company.

Our afternoon massage is also the other reason we’re pausing, which I anticipate being as relaxing as the cruise. I’m led to a wooden hut where an Indian lady gestures to disrobe and lie face up on the wooden table. I had foolishly assumed the language of massage to be universal, but as she covers me in slimy red oil and her gnarly hands adorned with gold bangles pummel me into the hard table, I suspect there has been some miscommunication. Once my ‘relaxing’ massage is over, she directs me towards two buckets of water and a bar of soap and indicates to use one bucket for lathering up and the other for rinsing.

While obeying her washing instructions, I not only hear the villagers chatting and giggling nearby, but I catch glimpses of them through the planks in the wooden walls. I suspect my white flesh is the topic of their conversation. Despite my bucket bath, my hands are still slippery and as I fumble with the latch on the hut door, I hear more giggles as my masseuse comes to my rescue.

With my dignity somewhat restored, the day ends to the sound of laundry slapping on the rocks. Light fades into a feast of paneer sambal, lady fingers, chicken mughali, tiger prawn masala and chapatis. Sleep comes easily.

The following morning, while putting along the river, we spy two fully clothed women washing their heavy black manes at the water’s edge. A short time later, we alight in the tiny town of Malabar and visit Champakulam Klloorkkadu St Mary’s Church, integral to Kerala’s Christianity. The church is believed to date back to 1151, although given its pristine state, it must have undergone many renovations.

Other side trips can be arranged, like a visit to Sri Mata Amritanandamayi Devi, aka “the hugging mother.” One of India’s most famous female gurus, she hugs 1,000’s of pilgrims in all-night sessions, and after one of her cuddles, devotees swear they feel an overwhelming sense of calmness. Registering online (www.amritapuri.org) prior to your visit is recommended.

Neighbouring swanky houseboats glide through water hyacinths with upper decks sporting Jacuzzis, undoubtedly providing as much entertainment for the locals. How indulgent we foreigners must seem to the locals donning muted saris bent over rice paddies or to those paddling by in their canoes piled high with their families and the day’s pickings.

Our second and final night passes by in a flurry of enchanting fireflies and fish molee (seared fish in spices and coconut milk), endless curries and smoky coconut pancakes for dessert. All washed down with the nectar of coconuts and the peppery notes of a Cabernet Shiraz by Sula Vineyards.

With my clothes slightly tighter than when I began my houseboat voyage, it’s time to return to reality. Although I could have taken a day cruise, I’m eternally grateful for the opportunity for a lengthy exploration of this stunning pocket of India on an Alleppey backwater cruise. Hiring a houseboat isn’t a cheap option, especially by Indian standards and even more so if you book out the entire boat, however the luxury of having no schedule and the time spent with your travelling companions is a price worth paying.

As I begin to wonder how I’ll ever care for myself again, our luggage is carried off by the crew with kilo-watt smiles and head wobbles abound. The drive to the airport is an assault on the senses only alleviated by memories of a Keralite idyllic existence.

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