Deemed the cultural and spiritual heart of Bali, this Ubud itinerary includes many of my favourite things to do in one of my most beloved destinations on earth. Mother Nature has truly outdone herself in this part of the world where beauty engulfs you every which way, further enhanced by local craftsmen bestowing their talents from art to architecture. When you head to Ubud’s hills, you’ll forget all about the chaos of the flats as there’s a distinct energy in the air that rejuvenates and invigorates, drawing me back time and time again.

I didn’t design this Ubud itinerary to fill every moment of every day, although there certainly are enough attractions to keep you busy. Instead, I recommend you take it slow and settle into the languid pace that the locals have mastered, partly due to the humidity and the fact that things take longer in this exquisite part of the world.

Allow yourself the indulgence of doing less, taking it slow and taking a break from life as you know it. This is a journey of rejuvenation and relaxation.

Getting my ducks in a row along the Sari Organic Trail

Ubud Itinerary Day 1: Rural vistas

Let’s get an early start to avoid the midday sun and stretch those legs on the Sari Organic Walk. Spanning 3.5km through rice paddies and clusters of villas and cafes, you can do as much or as little of the walk as you wish. The trail is fairly easy and flat, with most of the path in good condition. The only challenges were the heat, as we mistakenly started too late in the day, and a few motorbikes to navigate, more so at the beginning of the trail.

This walk is one of my favourite things to do in Ubud. I could easily spend the day admiring the scenery, stopping at the many cafes and galleries and treating myself to a yoga session and massage. Along the way, you’ll encounter the locals going about their day, as well as couples, families and solo women. I always for a fresh coconut from the stalls, and I’m a big fan of the coffee and views at Dragonfly Café, which is part of Dragonfly Village, where you can stay, join a workshop or embrace the heat with a session in the sauna. No doubt you’ll discover your own favourites on the trail, such as the gorgeous The Rice Joglo, Trinity Gardens and Molecha Organic Warung.

The Sari Organic Walk is on Jalan Subak Sok Wayah, and can enter off Jalan Raya Ubud, one of the main arterial roads into Ubud. The trail is most built-up at this end, and if you make it to the end, you’ll pop out on Kelabang Moding, where we stopped for lunch at The Pengkolan Warung, serving a mix of light western and local dishes. The Pyramids of Chi is a short walk away, which intrigues me for its healing and wellness sessions, and maybe next time, I’ll indulge in sound healing or guided meditation ceremonies.

Ubud Itinerary Day 2: Relax

By taking the beach club concept into the hills, Ubud makes the most of its jungle setting to create swoon-worthy day clubs. Whether you book an all-inclusive experience or just pop in for a cocktail and the views, you’ll enter another level of beauty. Cretya, Wanna Jungle Pool and Bar, and Tis overlooking the iconic Tegalalang Rice Terraces live up to the hype.

You can reach Tegenungan Waterfall from Omma Dayclub

I love Omma Dayclub because there are many places to lounge, including quiet corners to chill or join all the action around the infinity pool with a waterfall backdrop. What really sets Omma apart for me is the nearby Tegenungan Waterfall, only a stroll away, where you can take a dip or fill your Instagram feed with stunning shots. Of course, there’s a swing (no self-respecting tourist attraction in Southeast Asia is without one these days), a fantastic menu, a temple and live entertainment. Omma has free entry, but there is a minimum spend depending on which package you book, ranging from poolside dining and day beds to VIP lounges offering pool and waterfall access and free welcome drinks and canapes. Regardless of which one you choose, I recommend arriving early to make the most of the facilities and vistas before it gets too busy.

Ubud Itinerary Day 3: Explore

The township of Ubud perpetually bustles, especially around the corner of Jalan Raya Ubud and Jalan Suweta, where you’ll find the Ubud Art Market, Ubud Palace and the Pura Taman Kemuda Saraswati. The Ubud Art Market was recently upgraded and is a treasure trove of hand-crafted goods, homewares, clothes, bags and souvenirs, where haggling with local store holders is all part of the experience. There are plenty of air-conditioned boutiques nearby, as well as the Ubud Street Market on Jalan Karna behind the art market, which offers endless opportunities for more haggling.

Ubud Art Street

Located across the road from the art markets, I recently visited Ubud Palace for the first time and I’m not sure why it took me so long to visit this temple complex. Originally built in the early 1800s in the traditional Balinese style of architecture with traditional stone carvings by local artisans, it was restored after the 1917 earthquake. The grounds host traditional Balinese dance shows, which I have added to my list for my next visit. The royal family still live in the complex and, with free entry, go early to avoid the crowds.

Ubud Palace

You’ve no doubt seen the photos of the lotus pond in front of the Pura Taman Saraswati, but it’s not until you’re standing in front of it that you appreciate the beauty of this temple designed by renowned architect I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, who was also instrumental in the design of the Ubud Palace. Saraswati Ubud Temple is dedicated to the Goddess Saraswati, the Hindu Goddess of knowledge, literature and art – no wonder I’m always drawn to this temple. Balinese dance performances at night attract a fee paid to Café Lotus next door. Although I haven’t tried it myself, I’ve heard it’s a magical experience as the twinkling lights reflecting off the pond add to the ambience of the performance.

Ubud Monkey Forest

I’ve been coming to Bali for decades, and I can finally say I have now visited the famous Monkey Forest. Covering 12.5 hectares, this natural sanctuary is home to over 1200 long-tailed macaque monkeys perpetually up to mischief. Some rules include avoiding looking them in the eye, not having food or hiding it, and not having anything in your hand they might be interested in grabbing. With so many photo opportunities, it’s hard not to have your phone out, especially when they’re doing bombies in the pond during bathtime.

Ubud Itinerary Day 4: Cultural Fix

Dedicated to Vishnu, the Hindu God of water, Tirta Empul Temple is just a few minutes from Ubud. Considered one of the holiest springs, locals and visitors flock here for water blessings and purification beneath the spouts. Even if you don’t partake in a water blessing, visiting the complex is a contemplative experience.

A few minutes away in Batuan Village, you’ll witness artists depicting daily life and rituals through their intricate paintings. Any purchases you can’t resist will be shipped home. Nearby, the next generation of artists practice their craft at the Keliki Painting School, famed for teaching the signature Keliki art style in detailed ink and acrylic paints.

The martinis are as lethal as the ribs are delicious at Naughty Nuri’s

After such a wholesome morning, it’s time to visit Naughty Nuri’s. This rustic street-side barbeque joint has been grilling pork ribs and satays over a grill for decades. Many a meal and deal has been struck at this local and expat meeting spot over lethal martinis, made even more famous when Anthony Bourdain declared them the best martinis in the world. You will probably need a lie-down after this.

Visiting a day spa in Ubud is a must

With more time in Ubud:

• Campuhan Ridge Walk: This 2km walk is one of the most popular. Although picturesque, some views from the elevated path are obstructed by overgrown vegetation. If you start from the north, most of it is downhill, and getting an early start in the day will help avoid the heat and crowds.
• Blanco Renaissance Museum: Dedicated to artist Antonio Blanco in his former mansion-studio, and now his son Mario, he was awarded for his portraits of beautiful Balinese women and the island landscapes and was one of the most prolific expat artists to live in Bali.

Tegallalang Rice Terrace

• Tegalalang Rice Terraces – There’s a reason this valley of rice terraces is one of the most photographed spots in Ubud. You can hike down or channel your inner influencer, don a flowing gown, and ride the swing over the Ayung River valley.
• Petulu Village – Every day at dusk, thousands of white cranes descend on Petulu Village in spectacular fashion and fly away the following morning. If you arrive around 5pm, you will witness this spectacle and ponder on the myths that the herons represent the souls sacrificed in the massacre of 1965 or that the herons answer the villager’s prayers for peace.
• Day spa: Day spas practically line the streets in Ubud and most hotels also have plenty of pampering in sublime settings. I recommend Akoya Spa (Viceroy), Taksu Spa, Bali Botanica and the Five Elements Spa on the banks of the Ayung River.

Komenaka Monkey Forest

Where to stay in Ubud:

Komaneka at Monkey Forest: Komaneka has several boutique hotels across the island and I loved the understated luxury at Komaneka at Monkey Forest

Villa Soul: Set a short walk behind Bintang Supermarket, the two-bedroom, two-bathroom Villa Soul epitomises tranquillity.

Villa Soul

Kano Sari: Overlooking terraced gardens and the river gorge, the 4-star Kano Sari offers a range of configurations for families, couples and singles, and you can read my review here.

Trinity Gardens: Channel your Eat Pray Love persona for a spot of indulgent frolicking through the rice paddies at Trinity Gardens and find out more about my stay here.

Como Uma Ubud: The Como Uma Ubud lives up to the luxurious brand’s reputation and you can read more about my review here. https://fluffytowel.com/unique-places-to-stay-in-ubud-bali /https://www.comohotels.com/bali/como-uma-ubud

Viceroy Ubud: Situated in the Valley of Kings, the Viceroy Bali is the undisputed king of luxury and you can read my review here.

Fivelements Retreat: Crafted from bamboo and set on the banks of the Ayung River, is the ultimate retreat.

Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka 3

Where to eat in Ubud:

Naughty Nuri’s: All other ribs and satays maybe ruined for you once you’ve tasted them at Naughty Nuri’s.

Warung Babi Gulung: With three outlets in Ubud, there’s much debate over which one serves the best suckling pig. I’m a fan of Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka 3 because it’s the quietest, but why not decide for yourself.

Dirty Duck Diner: Serving the original crispy duck since 1990 and set among the rice paddies, duck is just one of the Balinese specialties on the menu.

Honey & Smoke: This wood-fired bistro is the brainchild of chef Will Meyrick – everything I tried was outstanding. But if a trip to Ubud isn’t on the cards and you’re in Perth, check out his Will St. restaurant in Leederville

Uma Cucina: If you’re craving something other than Indonesian food, Uma Cucina at the Como Uma Ubud serves some of the best Italian food on the island.

Dragonfly Café: Located on the Sari Organic Trail and set within the Dragonfly Village, Dragonfly Café serves delicious coffee and vegetarian and vegan food overlooking rice paddies.

Warungs: You can’t go wrong with your local warung for affordable Balinese food

Honey & Smoke

How to get to Ubud:

Jetstar, Citilink and Air Asia fly into Denpasar Airport and Ubud is about an hour’s drive with Grab or request your accommodation to organise a transfer.

Getting around Ubud: Unless you’re a confident motorcyclist, I don’t recommend hiring a motorbike. Instead, use Grab to get around or organise a driver for the duration of your journey. And don’t ever leave home without travel insurance as you just never know when a monkey is going to steal your phone, or worse.

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The Viceroy, Ubud

A verdant checkerboard of rice paddies and lush expanses, Ubud has staked its claim as the spiritual and artistic capital of Bali. About an hour from the airport, give or take a thousand or so motorbikes, twisty bends and road work delays, you’ll relish in the tranquillity and these unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali.

Unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali: Viceroy

Heaven forbid you only had one night in Ubud, but if you did, then the Viceroy Bali is THE place to stay. No need to negotiate the traffic, simply send for a helicopter to collect you from the airport and deliver you directly to your private villa suspended over the Valley of Kings. Bali’s architectural grandeur goes without saying but it’s the small things that set the Viceroy apart. My bale perched over a heated infinity pool includes power points and by the pool are towel rails and a games table engraved with a chessboard.

The mini bar is stocked with Veuve Clicquot and if there was ever a time to splurge it would be while soaking in the oversized bath at the centre of the opulent bathroom. Crank up the Bowers & Wilkins Zeppelin speakers and emerge through the bathroom’s filmy curtains all Zoolander-like as you head out to CasCades Restaurant.

Dinner is quite an event and features a local and international line-up including western classics with premium ingredients or the Balinese version of degustation known as Rijsttafel with traditional Babek Betutu (roasted duck) and Babi Guling (suckling pig) as you’re waited on by staff in traditional uniforms and gracious Balinese charm.

Or you can enjoy nibbles and cocktails by the pool

There’s a buggy on standby to help you back to your villa, which I must say is especially handy after a deplorable display of decadence at the Lembah Spa.

Talk about rooms with a view, and there’s over 40 villas to choose from catering to romantic couples and loving families. Integrating Balinese architecture with luxury, there are six villa categories featuring marble bathrooms, espresso machines, rain showers, 24-hour service, artifacts and infinity pools with traditional bales with valley or Petanu River views.

This dreamy resort is imbued with Balinese sensuality and bespoke details cocooning guests in privacy, romance, adventure and relaxation.

Even the grounds receive that exclusive attention to detail

The Viceroy Bali offer a range of activities including helicopter tours, luxury yachts, outings to local attractions, tours, yoga, cooking classes, rice paddy treks and even Balinese dance lessons. There’s no guarantee you’ll look as graceful as these beautiful dancers but the experience will undoubtedly be unforgettable.

I couldn’t agree more with the hotel’s motto, “Viceroy is a sanctuary in paradise.”

Unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali: Como Uma

No matter where you are in Ubud you’re never far away from an artisan whether they be painters, carpenters, weavers, musicians or those crafting batik patterns. Even the wafting incense in the open dining room at Uma by Como seems to sway in time to the smoky jazz playing in the background.

In Sanskrit, Uma means home, a concept the Como Uma fulfils within all 46 suites and villas set on 2.3 hectares of lush grounds overlooking the Tjampuhan Valley amide paddy fields carved out of hillsides dotted with palm and banyan trees. Laid out in a traditional Balinese village style, at the heart of the resort sits the lobby, 25-metre pool, bar, gym and the Ubud COMO Shambhala Retreat offering award-winning wellness treatments in serene rooms along wooden pathways flanked by koi ponds.

In addition to a menu drawing on seasonal ingredients, including Indonesian and Indian spices, guests can also order from the Shambhala Cuisine menu designed to maximise energy and well-being with the use of raw organic foods rich in living enzymes, vitamins and sea minerals. There are two restaurants to choose from, the informal Uma Cucina and Kemiri, meaning ‘candlenut’ – a key ingredient in Indonesian cuisine.

Kemiri Restaurant at night

Immersive experiences transform any stay and beyond the handcrafted villas and lush grounds, excursions range from strenuous treks and white-water rafting to visits to local villages in Ubud dedicated to creating exquisite art. Batuan Village is famed for its painting style of the same name depicting village life and history while drawing on Hindu mythology. A few minutes away a new generation of budding artists are hard at work producing equally intricate art works at the Keliki Painting School. I ask my guide Anom Suyadnya, Uma’s Activity Specialist what sets the artists apart in Ubud and he replies with, “Tourism is thriving so there are many opportunities for artists. For example, the Ritz Carlton in Ubud features Batuan art in every room.”

Unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali: Trinity Gardens

Calling all you devoted Eat Pray Love fans, Trinity Gardens will set you on a path of self-discovery, or at least a bohemian stay in their rustic complex comprising of joglos (a traditional Javanese dwellings), The Den which is ideal for a couple or small family or The Mansion perfect for a lengthy gathering of like-minded souls.

Access is gained by a beautiful 15-minute walk along the Sari Organic path depicting rural life with a smattering of organic cafes, day spas, galleries and industrious ducks along the way.

More than just somewhere to lay your head, owner Susanna Nova offers workshops in health, beauty, relationships and creativity. Susanna lives onsite with her family and was drawn to Ubud, as are many women, because of its feminine energy. She says Bali makes her feel alive, and her message to visitors is to, “Come to Bali to listen deeply to the devotion in the people. They have a quality of devotion and ritual. It’s a treasure you can’t find in other places.”

With its open bathrooms, remote access, communal living spaces, and relying only on the breeze and the onsite pool to provide relief from the humidity, Trinity Gardens is unconventional without a doubt. Without the distractions of the outside world, it’s a thrilling escape route from the confines of reality.

Unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali: Kano Sari

Symphonies of cicadas and spine-tingling chanting echoing across the ravine come as part of the package at Kano Sari, along with the meditative snipping of grass by hand; the staff prefer tradition over convenience.

There’s no mistaking where you are as owner Karen Lewis helps support Kutuh Kelod village, where Kano Sari is located, by contributing to the community, embracing Bali’s seemingly endless ceremonies (she even has outfits for her guests to use), placing offerings around the property and hiring locals.

What was originally supposed to be a villa for her family and friends to enjoy, evolved into a rambling guesthouse using natural materials sourced locally including the stone, linens, artworks, weavings on the ceilings and even the communal dining table is crafted from an old truck; although the marble came further afield from Sulawesi where her parents once lived.

Comfortably sleeping 13, Karen urges visitors to “Stay as long as possible and immerse yourself in the culture. Take the time to communicate with the locals.”

One way to take Karen’s advice in a mindful manner is to hire her local driver and guide Tano for a unique tour. If you only have time for one excursion, make it Tirtu Empul Temple for a water blessing beneath a dozen spouts; even if praying isn’t your thing, I guarantee you you’ll leave refreshed and invigorated.

While in Ubud you might enjoy some of these options in Ubud, Bali: Eat, Lay, Bend and Write or to venture further afield to The Wild West, Balinese Style in West Bali.

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Plotting how I can stay forever

Carmen Jenner was a very pampered guest of Viceroy Bali, Como Uma, Trinity Gardens and Kano Sari in Ubud

The post Unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali appeared first on Fluffy Towel Travel.

Eat and Lay

Fivelements Wellness Retreat (www.fivelements.org) draws upon the gentle Balinese culture and the five elements of water, earth, air, ether, and fire.

Fivelements’ living raw vegan menu in Ubud, Bali

Offering a raw living vegan menu to boost immunity and aid digestion, the key is to avoid food taken from animals which means no meat, fish or animal products including eggs or honey. Pulses, soya products, seaweed, wild rice, quinoa, wholegrain rice and millet are all allowed as well as all the fruit and vegetables you can handle in varying textures to achieve different tastes. In fact, the sweet banana crepes wrapped around avocado, mango cream topped with a fresh fruit compote and chocolate cream still causes salivation. With the combination of herbs and spices any dish can be flavoursome.

The spa menu is equally appetising with intoxicating chocolate body scrubs and alternative healing methods like tantra yoga for personalised energy. The sacred arts programs include a combination of Eastern philosophy blended with a Western lifestyle. Included are prayers with a Hindu priest, meditation, yoga, the martial art of Aikido, somatic therapy, Vinyasa flow (breath-synchronised movement) and expressive arts.

Fivelements spa treatment in Ubud, Bali

Set on the banks of the babbling Ayung River on the outskirts of Ubud, every structure in the resort is crafted from bamboo. and the treatments, meals and sweet dreams are serenaded by the river rapids.

Every structure is made from bamboo at Fivelements in Ubud, Bali

Bend and Lay

Nestled into the hillside and offering flourishing views every which way, ONEWorld Retreats (www.oneworldretreats.com) have paused their unique experiences in Ubud, Bali at the boutique hotel Kumara Sakti.  Once they welcome back their guests, there’s no questioning the level of inspiration generated at the retreats that may include yoga, Pilates, meditation, healing, spirituality and cultural experiences for all ages and levels of expertise. There’s no shortage of patience especially with yoga guru Wayan whose chanting at the end of sessions is designed to give goose bumps despite the humidity.

Finding your OM in Ubud, Bali

The day spa is renowned for an Ayurvedic Chakra Dhara Massage and is so relaxing that the concept of floating out of the window and into the lush forest isn’t out of the question.

The menu is healthy and tasty and the rooms are stylishly yet minimally appointed so as to not clutter the mind or the body. Other activities include rice paddy walks with a local, which offer an insight into the lives of those integral to the rice industry.  There are other excursions further afield like temple, village, volcano and market visits. Whatever you do, don’t forget your notebook and camera to capture all those flowing ideas and dreams.   www.oneworldretreats.com

A path to enlightenment in Ubud, Bali

Bend just a bit more

Spa, yoga and organic mecca Taksu Spa & Restaurant (www.taksuspa.com) is located in the heart of Ubud, Bali and is designed for those dedicated to treating their bodies like a temple. With a variety of yoga and movement art styles available like Balinese, Vinyasa, Patanjali, laughter and meditation forms, yoga sessions are designed to challenge. The inexperienced needn’t worry as there are smaller or private classes for the not-so bendy. Taksu means ‘spirit’ in Balinese and one element of harmonising the body is with a rejuvenating spa experience.

Careful not to step on these beautiful offerings to the Gods in Ubud, Bali

With a mix of Western and Eastern philosophies the treatments are varied and include traditional Balinese and Hawaiian holistic Lomi Lomi massages, as well as alternative remedies like Ozone Therapy which sends ozone through the ear canal or armpit with a specially modified stethoscope to boost your immune system.

The menu is organic and includes raw living food selections which when eaten in their natural form retain the vital life force nutrients like vitamins, minerals, amino acids and oxygen while providing the maximum amount of energy with minimal bodily effort. Even with the incentive of allowing more room for downward facing dog, the menu also includes seafood, chicken and many local favourites like satay and noodles as well as cooked options.

Sprawled throughout a jungle setting in Ubud, Taksu includes a series of pavilions and seating set unobtrusively into the landscape where you can quite easily escape to fantasize and write in between meals and treatments. That is unless you’ve brought your girlfriends along for a Taksu signature Sparty.

Write

How inspiring is this spot by the Ayung River in ubud, Bali

If there was ever a location to get creative, then the verdant terrain of Ubud is THE place and October 2021 celebrates the 18^th season of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival (www.ubudwritersfestival.com), with strict Covid-19 protocols in place. 2021’s theme is Self-Reflection welcomes many inspiring Indonesian and international writers, readers and artists to dazzle with their insightful minds, poignant stories, song writing and creativity. The program is yet to be finalised but there will workshops, talks and book launches interspersed with magical events, languid meals, music, dance and of course, Ubud’s stunning panorama.

Who knows, you might become so inspired by this calibre of talent that you pen your own bestseller.

Naughty corners:

The naughty ribs at Naughty Nuris, Ubud, Bali

Your mind and body have been taken care of, but sometimes the soul longs to be naughty. Street-side Naughty Nuri’s (www.naughtynurisbali.com) certainly falls into the devilish category with its wicked martinis and BBQ ribs defiantly wafting over Ubud’s vegan community. If you’re really into pork then you can eat every part of it at any three of Ibu Oka Babi Gulung’s rustic restaurants; just ask any taxi driver and they’ll know where to go.  If upmarket indulgence is more your thing, then the Bridges (www.bridgesbali.com) spoils with delicacies like waygu beef, foie gras, imported cheeses and wine from the first custom built wine-room in Ubud.

The lush rice paddies in Ubud, Bali

Fancy exploring more of Bali? Then check out The Wild West, Balinese Style in West Bali.

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