Greens Pool…too beautiful to be believed

ANZAC Day commemorates Albany’s wartime role and presents a patriotic reason to further explore Western Australia’s Great Southern region.

The approach into Western Australia’s Great Southern region features weathered scrub bordered by the rugged peaks of the distant Stirling Ranges. It’s an idyllic scene, unchanged for more a million years. But over a century ago, peace was cruelly broken by the dramatic departure of Australian troops for Europe.

On 1 November 1914, the first convoy of Australian and New Zealand troops sailed from Albany to fight in the first World War. There were more than 40,000 men and 17,000 horses on 54 ships in two convoys, with the ships carrying up to four times as many men as they were originally built to transport. Many of the soldiers on-board would never return to Australia.

Today there is little sign of turmoil as holiday-makers flock to Western Australia’s Great Southern for adventure, culture, food, wine and relaxation. History is never forgotten though. To mark the anniversary, many make the four-hour journey south of Perth to honour ANZAC day with a driving holiday throughout the region.

Albany and the ANZACs

Our wartime heroes are remembered on ANZAC Day, 25 April when Albany honours their sacrifice and victory with ANZAC events, which include dawn and main service, events, afterall, Albany is the site of Australia’s first dawn service conducted by Padre White. If you’re in town, a visit to the National ANZAC Centre is a must. The state-of-the-art museum allows visitors to travel alongside the troops to Egypt, Gallipoli and the Western Front while interacting with touch-points and digital displays and a live web interface for the public to contribute their own stories.

WA’s Great Southern’s attractions

While the ANZACs may be the main focus, the Great Southern Region also has a fascinating social and indigenous history of its own. On your way to or from Albany take a sidetrip to Kodja Place visitor and cultural centre in Kojonup, 150km north of Albany, and experience “The Real Australian Story” with its poignant exhibitions, stories and artworks depicting the life of WA’s settlers, Indigenous community and migrants. In the heart of farming country, and home to vineyards and olive groves, the town also has some of the state’s oldest buildings.

Any journey to the Great Southern Region must also include a visit to the Great Southern Triangle. The peak of the triangle is Mount Barker, which extends south-west to Denmark and south to Albany. A renowned wine district, the triangle is famous for its Riesling, Chardonnay and Shiraz varieties. If you only have time for one make it Oranje Tractor Wines for their organic wines and delicious platters featuring ingredients freshly plucked from the gardens. Basing yourself at the Hilton Garden Inn Albany is ideal for explorations and click here for more information.

The region is famed for succulent yabbies

If in town over a weekend, sample the region’s sweet marron, organic meats and cheeses at the Albany Farmer’s Markets (Saturdays) and Albany Boatshed Markets (Sundays). For more gourmet adventures in the region, please check out A Gourmet Road Trip from Albany to Denmark.

WA’s Great Southern’s natural beauty

Bushwalking and nature-loving enthusiasts will be drawn to the Porongurup National Park and Stirling Ranges (the only place to receive snowfall in the state) best reached from either Mt Barker or Kendenup (north of Mt Barker). Both mountain ranges have charming villages for petrol and food stops as well as galleries, accommodation and general stores.

The South Coast Highway heading towards Denmark and its sky-scraping karri forests feature untouched landscapes and a breathtaking coast. Follow the signs to Scotsdale Road and Mt Shadforth’s scenic drives. Wilson Inlet, Nullaki Peninsula and the Southern Ocean draw photographers attempting to capture this extraordinary natural environment.

The wild Great Southern Ocean

Stand at WA’s most southerly point in West Cape Howe National Park before heading to William Bay National Park for the stunning Greens Pool and Elephant Rock. If staying in Denmark, the eco-certified Karma Chalets, the self-contained Pelicans at Denmark or hexagonal The Combe with unsurpassed views over Wilson inlet are all good options.

In and around Albany

Mt Clarence and the Princess Royal Fortress, built in 1893 as the first federal defence of Australia, is Albany’s highest point and affords a stunning view of the Sound. If you walk the gum-tree-lined Avenue of Honour on Apex Drive to the top of Mt Clarence, you’ll find the Desert Mounted Corps Memorial, which is a replica of the statue erected at Suez in 1932. Overlooking the Ataturk Channel, named in honour of ANZAC Cove in Gallipoli, stands a statue of Mustafa Kamal, A steel walkway leads up to where Rector Padre White stood in 1930 and held the first-ever observance of a dawn parade on Anzac Day.

Home to WA’s first European settlement, the protected waters of King George Sound are a wonderful place to explore both land and sea. On the southern coast of King George Sound, the site of the decommissioned Cheynes Beach Whaling Station, now named Discovery Bay, includes a museum highlighting Western Australia’s dark whaling history.

Natural Bridge and The Gap

At Torndirrup National Park, the power of the Southern Ocean is on display. The Gap and Natural Bridge are spectacular natural rock formations carved by the surging water. Pay particular attention to your safety as the 300-metre climb across the walkway over the rocks can be slippery with the spray from the surging and unpredictable waves.

Albany offers numerous accommodation options including the Dog Rock Motel, attached to one of the town’s finest restaurants Lime 303, or the cosy Beach House at Bayside and their hearty breakfasts and warm hospitality.

King George Sound

Towards Hopetoun

Heading east out of Albany towards Hopetoun, the remote and beautiful Great South West Edge region offers views of stunning coastal headlands, pretty inlets, mountains, valleys and wildflowers. Past Hopetoun towards Bremer Bay the Fitzgerald River National Park spans over 330,000 hectares and is home to over 1,800 plant species and wildlife. The opportunities are endless for photography, bushwalking, sand-dunning, canoeing, fishing and camping. Snorkel at Barrens Beach, whale-watch from Point Ann or go house-boating on the Hamersley Inlet. For impressive seascape and mountains views, hike up to Beacon Hill or look out to the Fitzgerald River National Park and Hamersley Inlet from Sepucralis Hill Lookout.

Not only is this pocket of the state’s expansive and dramatic landscape adorned with nature, adventure, culture, food and wine galore, but the land is steeped in history.

Few destinations offer such diversity and the Great Southern region of Western Australia makes for a glorious driving holiday.

Fast facts

Where: Denmark to Hopetoun lies within the Great Southern region and is best reached via the Albany Hwy, 360km south of Perth.

When: Summer temperatures reach 32 degrees and winters drop below 10 degrees. The wildflower season runs from August to November from Mt Barker all the way down to the coast from Walpole to Bremer Bay. May to early October is peak whale-watching season.

Distance: Denmark to Hopetoun is 389km; Perth to Denmark is 420km via Albany Hwy; Perth to Albany is 414km; and Perth to Hopetoun is 589km. The region can be enjoyed over a weekend, but there’s ample to do over several days, weeks or even months.

Don’t miss:

Cosy Corner Beach in Torbay (north of West Cape Howe National Park) or Ledge Bay Beach in the Gull Rock National Park (25km east of Albany) if you yearn for a stretch of coastline to yourself.

Originally published in Horizons RAC Magazine.

For more of Western Australia’s Great Southern adventures check out A gourmet road trip from Albany to Denmark, The Best of Western Australia’s Frankland River and 8 reasons to follow WA’s Public Silo Trail.

The post Western Australia’s Great Southern Land appeared first on Fluffy Towel Travel.

There’s nothing quite like being whisked away to luxury digs where the signature dish is romance and dessert is, um, well, I’m sure you can conjure up some scenarios. Why not go all out and head to a remote pocket of our huge state where no-one will hear your cries of glory with these 9 remote romantic getaways in Western Australia?

9 Remote Romantic Getaways in Western Australia

Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Credit Ryan Chatfield/Cocos Islands

Okay, although not technically part of Western Australia, we’re claiming the Cocos (Keeling) Islands as they can only be reached from Perth within a few hours, and let’s face it, they are the very definition of paradise. Consisting of 27 islands, this tiny atoll in the Indian Ocean is about as remote as you can get, which is just the way you’ll want it with the perfect year-round water temperature of 28 degrees. The compact population of around 600 swells no more than 144 visitors as that’s all that can be accommodated at any one time across the cute bungalows, including the adults-only The Breakers and Seaward. Direction Island and Pulu Belan Madar have been named as two of the country’s best beaches by Tourism Australia for their snorkelling, scuba diving, fishing, birdwatching, island hopping and undisputed beauty.

Cocos Keeling Islands, Indian Ocean

Credit Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Margaret River Region: Willow Wood Glamping Retreat

Set on 100 acres among kangaroos and fluffy highland cows, Willow Wood Glamping Retreat cradles its guests in fluffy towels, fluffy robes, ensuites with Larn’wa products, cloud-like mattresses, sitting rooms, air-conditioning and kitchenettes stocked with coffee machines and freshly baked bread, preserves and granola. By the time I was soaking in the copper bath on the deck beneath the Milky Way, I seriously began to wonder what had taken me so long to try glamping, especially one that blends luxury and nature as seamlessly as the owners Kevin and Amber Kelly have succeeded in doing. I further dwelled on this while horizontal in the spa tent as Amber worked her magic with a Larn’wa treatment infused with Australian botanicals.

381 Ambergate Road, Ambergate

Frankland River: Frankland River Retreat

I’m always dreaming about escaping to a cabin in the woods…as long as the internet, wine, coffee and fluffy towels are in abundance. The Frankland River Retreat fulfils the fantasy and more with a well-appointed kitchenette and bathroom, open-plan living and dining, a queen-sized bed and a deck with sweeping views of rolling paddocks. Truth be told, it’s one of the most remote and romantic getaways in Western Australia that even I had to look it up on a map, and I’ve lived in Perth my whole life. Turns out that even though it feels a universe away from reality, it’s really only an hour from Albany, Denmark, Manjimup and Mount Barker, and a three-and-a-half-hour drive southeast of Perth – the perfect spot for romantic adventures. To find out more about the Frankland River Retreat, please click here.

Frankland River Retreat

Ferguson Valley: Peppermint Lane

The adults-only and discrete cottages at Peppermint Lane Lodge is not the place to bring your kids, but it certainly is a wonderful place to make a baby. A retreat in every sense of the word, there are few distractions from the real world – just romance and a few kangaroos bouncing by. Situated in the Ferguson Valley, where the hills seem to slip into the Indian Ocean, many zoom past the turn-off on the South West highway about an hour north of Margaret River. Let them, leaving more wine, food, art, adventure, wildlife, romance and a few thousand gnomes at the nearby Gnomesville, for you and your lover to relish in.

South West and Great Southern: Private Properties

Glamourous beachside mansions and wilderness escapes in unforgettable locations, Private Properties offers multiple romantic getaways in Western Australia. Many offer multiple living rooms, bathrooms and bedrooms in different configurations as well as tennis courts and pools for exertions beyond the boudoir. They range from sleek and contemporary designs to pre-loved wooden bungalows, many with coastal, vineyard and bush views, and others in incredible garden settings. Massages, romantic dining experiences, housekeeping, itineraries, yoga and possibly even the odd kangaroo are available upon request. For a few suggestions check out 5 Luxurious Margaret River Properties.

Photo provided by Karijini Eco Retreat taken by Christian Fletcher

Pilbara: Karijini Eco Retreat, Pilbara

For an authentically Australian outback experience, get back to nature at Karijini Eco Retreat. Set within Karijini National Park and owned by the Gumala Aboriginal Corporation, you can spread your love of the environment with safari tents made from recycled materials and with limited power, you’re guaranteed to smoulder within the romantic glow. There is a range of sleeping options, but the deluxe eco-tents with private en-suites, quality bedding, stylish décor and decks only adds to the romance and makes for a star-studded experience. The onsite Australian-inspired restaurant offers outback flavours undoubtedly with red kangaroos shyly observing in the distance. Located 1400km north of Perth and 80km north-east of Tom Price, this is one of the most remote and romantic getaways in Western Australia – the isolation is glorious, especially with the juxtaposition of lush streams, waterfalls, pools and ferns against the burnt ochres and faded scrub greens sure to romance your honey. Not to mention those plunging gorges millions of years old guaranteed to evoke at least one, “Hey gorgeous,” pun.

Katanning: Premier Mill Hotel

You mightn’t associate the tiny Katanning town located in the Wheatbelt with luxury. But after just one night in the historic flour mill converted into the luxurious Premier Mill Hotel, you might just change your mind. Each of the individualised 22 rooms is a moody industrial oasis and a throwback to the glory years as a profitable flour mill. Exposed timber walls, steel beams and vaulted open ceilings make for an unforgettable stay. The Old Mill Whistle once sounded for the workers and nowadays the whistle blows at midday as a celebration of heritage meets contemporary design. The boutique hotel houses a Dome café and the Cordial Bar in the basement, which was once used as a wine cellar and now serves cocktails, tapas and sodas – a delightful reminder of the original owner Frederick Piesse, whose vision transformed the town and manufacturing lemonade was just one of his many ventures. Katanning is on the WA Public Silo Trail and click here for 8 Reasons to follow this unique trail.

Albany: Beach House at Bayside

At the Beach House at Bayside, each of the Mediterranean-inspired rooms are exquisitely decorated and the elaborate breakfast spreads certainly set you up for a day of exploring. As Albany’s premier bed and breakfast accommodation, owners Craig and Sally Pullin offer all their guests staying in each of their 10 guest rooms a personalised service, including food and activity recommendations such as nearby walking and cycling trails, the National ANZAC Centre, The Gap and Natural Bridge and into neighbouring regions such as Denmark, Walpole, Porongurups and the Stirling Ranges. Albany is on the 1000km Public Silo Trail and reminiscent of a British seaside village, this is one of the most romantic getaways in Western Australia that beckons you to snuggle up after a day of rugged beauty.

Lucky Bay, Esperance

Lucky Bay, Esperance

Esperance: Esperance Chalet Village

Esperance’s isolation already appeals to those craving an uninhibited frolic on its pristine world-class beaches. This cluster of rustic chalets holds no airs and its recent refurbishment has taken care of all those creature comforts; promising countless opportunities to take care of each other. With plush bedding, contemporary décor, flat-screen TVs, well-equipped kitchens and reverse cycle air-conditioning, you’re well placed to explore with your partner-in-crime the ridiculously beautiful scenery, plus several secret enclaves within a lusty moan. With salty limbs entwined, choose between the spacious two-bedroom abodes or cosy A-Frame chalets nestled alongside Bandy River at the Esperance Chalet Village.

For more ideas to knock the pants off your lover please check out 6 Naked Mini-breaks 

If you’d like more ideas for romantic getaways in Western Australia, please order your copy of Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West coffee table book, a travel book like no other.

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I’ve been dreaming of a romantic cabin in the woods for a long time – as long as it has fluffy towels, internet and good coffee. Situated in the Great Southern region of Western Australia, the Frankland River region delivers in spades along with plenty of wine, scenery and adventure.

Where to stay in Frankland River

The Frankland River Retreat fulfills the fantasy and more as it offers a three-bedroom Homestead brimming with character, a wooden Cabin reminiscent of an alpine hut and a stylish tiny home referred to as the Chalet. We opted for the Chalet as minimalist living has always intrigued me. I love the idea of being unincumbered while travelling – says the girl who rarely leaves home without a portable Nespresso machine.

The verdict? Compact and perfectly formed, the Chalet is ideal for couples as it features a kitchenette with a hotplate and a microwave, an open-plan living and dining area, a separate bedroom with a queen-sized bed and a well-appointed bathroom.

Facing the escarpment, the views of rolling paddocks down to the Frankland River running through the 83-acre property are spectacular, best enjoyed from the deck or from our bed. From our cosy chalet, we witnessed a star-studded performance of the sun and moon rising above the escarpment and the sun setting in the west. Given the isolation, the absence of any sky pollution made this natural phenomenon all the more spectacular.

A cup of sunshine

A stroll down to the Frankland River is a must accompanied by bouncing bunnies and cattle serenading you in the distance. During Spring, you’ll witness fields of wildflowers while during the wet season, the river flows fast enough to go kayaking.

Frankland River Wine

Since you’re in the heart of the Frankland River Wine Region producing some of the state’s finest varieties, it would be unthinkable not to visit at least one winery. This pristine cool-climate region produces stand-out cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, riesling and sauvignon blanc.

We visited in February when the wineries were preparing to close to the public during their harvest season for several weeks. But we did manage to visit Alkoomi Wines, and this third-generation family-run winery impressively sprawls for over 1200 hectares. The stylish tasting room serves flights and cheese boards, which you can also take away to enjoy from their boutique outlet. Or you can delve in deeper with a private tour of the farm and picnic among the region’s famed olive groves, the very source of their olive oil also available from the tasting room.

As this region is off the beaten track, it’s worth calling ahead for cellar door openings at some of the other wineries including Ferngrove Wines, Swinney Wine, Frankland Estate, Three Elms and Lange Estate Wines.

Where to eat in Frankland River

Apart from cheese boards compliments of the nearby wineries, in the township of Frankland River you can tuck into substantial counter meals at the Frankland River Country Club as well as sampling some of the local drops – I highly recommend Ferngrove’s Merlot with the Surf ‘n Turf. The Frankland River Café has a hearty menu and is a great place to stop for a light meal and a coffee.

If you’re going further afield, I highly recommend Gilberts Wines for a tasting and grazing plates or head into Mount Barker to Plantagenet Wines also for a wine tasting, platters and pizzas. Mt Barker is another wine region to explore for another time, but while you’re in town stock up at Plantagenet Meats known for their premium local meat and smoked goods – might be a good time to mess up the kitchen back at Frankland River Retreat.

Approximately 15-minutes east of Mount Baker is Porongurup, which isn’t just visited for trekking either as the village and surrounding vineyards serve food and wine.

On the drive to and from Perth, you’ll pass several roadside fruit and vegetable stalls from the family-run orchards the region is famed for. They’ll probably be unmanned but don’t let that put you off, as they operate on a help-yourself honour system.

Of course, an abundance of gourmet delights awaits in Albany, Denmark, Pemberton and Manjimup, if time permits.

View over the vineyards from the Porongurup National Park to the Stirling Ranges

Things to do in Frankland River

Porongurup

Clambering up to Granite Skywalk at Castle Rock is a must-do for the intrepid at The Porongurup National Park, which we will have to save for next time when the weather isn’t so extreme. However, more leisurely walks are suitable for any fitness level, including the ‘Tree in the Rock’ walk. Or take the 23km scenic drive leaving you more time to explore the local wineries, cafes, galleries and village – and to stop regularly for photo opportunities.

Stirling Ranges

Shrouded in clouds, the Stirling Ranges majestically hover in the distance on the approach into the Frankland River region and situated in the ranges, Bluff Knoll is one of Western Australia’s highest peaks reaching over 1,000 metres above sea level. Many have conquered its challenging peaks and the 6.8km return hike is Grade 4 and requires a reasonable level of fitness. It’s recorded as the only spot in WA to receive snowfall and is worth the exhilarating trek for the views, wildflowers and birdlife. Even the approach along the Horsepower Highway into the range is scenic passing by a 75 kilometre trail of vintage tractors, with each having a unique name and story to tell.

Gong Relaxation Session

Just in case you weren’t relaxed enough, get your zen on with a gong relaxation session at The Sandalwood Shop. As you lay within the 16-sided cone painted with celestial skies, you won’t be able to help but succumb to the gong vibrations while enveloped in the aroma of sandalwood.

Public Silo Trail

You can join the self-drive 1,000km Public Silo Trail from Frankland River in Katanning about an hour away. The painted silos featuring the artworks of local and international artists link six Wheatbelt towns including Northam, Merredin, Katanning, Pingrup, Newdegate, Ravensthrorpe and Albany. Witnessing the huge murals set against the everchanging landscape is a surreal experience. If you follow the trail, plan ahead and make sure you book your accommodation ahead of time so you don’t miss out on the boutique Premier Mill Hotel in Katanning, Mary’s Farm Cottages in Kukerin and the Beach House at Bayside in Albany. I can’t recommend the trail enough and here are 8 Reasons to follow WA’s Public Silo Trail.

Wildflowers

Every Spring, the Great Southern is ablaze with over 8,000 species of wildflowers, with more yet to be discovered. WA’s diverse range of wildflowers is thanks to our isolation, climate, pollinators and stability of the environment. They can be seen in all their glory in many national parks or you can join the experts on a tour or use the Wildflower Tracker App for up-to-date sightings.

Relax in Frankland River

One of the main attractions of Frankland River isn’t even the tourist attractions – it’s the utter sense of isolation and knowing you can do as little or as much as you like. Most stay at the Frankland River Retreat for the space, where gentle walks around the property, board games, reading and eating are the highlights. The scenery and peace are undoubtedly conducive to writing, painting, photography and creating.

Where is Frankland River?

Full disclosure, Frankland River is remote – it’s about an hour’s drive to Albany, Denmark, Manjimup or Mount Barker – yet, it is only three and a half hours south-east of Perth. However, it’s an ideal spot to base yourself for regional adventures. You can approach Frankland River along Albany Highway through Williams or Kojonup – check out the rose maze, gallery and café at Kodja Place in Kojonup or the café and shop selling wool products at the Williams Woolshed.

Or you can follow the picturesque route through pretty Boyanup, Balingup, Bridgetown and Donnybrook where you can stop for lunch, coffee, fresh produce and a browse along the main street for fashion and homewares. We stopped at the Cidery in Bridgetown where I was delighted to discover they have added a distillery to their cider and beer range. Their Grounded Gin combines 12 botanicals imparting citrus and floral notes and it was a refreshing treat served with crushed Geraldton wax and lemon.

Carmen Jenner was a guest of the Frankland River Retreat and for more information go to www.franklandriver.com.au, www.greatsoutherntreasures.com.au and www.franklandriverregion.com.au

Want more of outback Western Australia? Check out Wagin: An outback gem or A Gourmet Road Trip from Albany to Denmark or Six remote Western Australian destinations to romance your honey

Craving more travels? Please stay in touch by subscribing to Fluffy Towel today. Thank you and happy travels.

The post The Best of Western Australia’s Frankland River appeared first on Fluffy Towel Travel.

Join us on a road trip from Albany to Denmark

A self-drive road trip from Albany to Denmark can take days or weeks, and that’s the beautiful freedom of a campervan, especially when there are plenty of caravan parks with powered sites to choose from. Equipped with a modern kitchen and a healthy appetite, we’re on a quest for marron, smoked trout, chocolate, free-range meat, honey, cheese, olive oil and the elusive truffle. Of course, there will be the pleasant distraction of Australia’s largest wine region, not to mention distilleries, breweries, cider factories and even a meadery.

Beautiful even in the rain

Albany is packed with gourmet outlets like Reeves on Campbell, Spencer Park Variety Meats, Solomon Merchants and Black Duck Gourmet Pantry. Farmers markets run weekends but for just-picked strawberries try Handasyde Strawberries. Just out of town in Middleton Beach is the Bay Merchants and Rats Bar and Due South overlooks Princess Royal Harbour.

Sure to enchant all ages and famed for succulent marron is Nippers Café at the Old Marron Farm, where there is also an animal farm and bird enclosure. Catch your own lunch at the Old Vasse Trout Restaurant and Marron Farm. Combine the outing with a Segway Tour through the farm and fields and you’ll have stretched those legs plenty before climbing aboard with a few clawed friends for tonight’s meal.

Moombaki Wines is just one of many wineries you’ll discover along the way.

Pick up a warming tipple like the Limeburners Single Malt Whisky from the Great Southern Distilling Company before hitting the Southern Coast Highway towards the picturesque town of Denmark.

Pop into Willoughby Park Winery for a spot of wine-swilling, the preservative-free ale at the Boston Brewery and for some hearty fare or varying degrees of grazing. For a caffeine hit in the township of Denmark try Ravens Coffee and sample the raw food menu. Or wander down to Darkside Chocolates for an infusion of chocolate with Australian bush flavours like lemon myrtle and native pepper.

Heading back onto the South Coast Highway visit Bartholomews Meadery for pure honey, mead and honey inspired crafts and gifts. The weather may demand a hot chocolate at Swiss Annies Fine Chocolates, not to mention the obscene chocolate menu. As if that wasn’t sticky enough, The Toffee Factory may just be your undoing and allow Elephants Rock Cider, also onsite, to cleanse the palette with the local flavours of apple, pear and strawberry.

Cruising the campervan along the scenic Scotsdale Drive is a visual feast as the enormous windscreen provides a panoramic view of the sweeping Jarrah and Marri trees. Stop off at Ducketts Mill Wines & Denmark Farmhouse Cheese for the makings of a decadent feast, especially the four-year-old gouda, and sample their preserves, fudge and ice-creams.

Does it get any tastier than this in Denmark?

Set in stunning scenery, The Valley of the Giants Organic Olive Oils has some of the country’s highest-ranking oils and olive products, and the success of their range can be attributed to the cool Mediterranean climate.

Elephant Rocks – can you spot the elephants?

While we’re on the subject, The Valley of the Giants is an ancient forest where you could lose yourself for days on end within its labyrinth and Treetop Walk. Nearby are beaches, inlets, falls, cliffs, wildflowers (from August to November) and walking trails, including the Bibbulmun Track, stretching 1000 kilometres from the Perth Hills to Albany. Park the campervan and do a section of the walk at any point of this journey. Or try and spot the elephants at Elephant Rocks and Greens Pool in William Bay National Park.

A truffle hunt at Manjimup’s Truffle Hill (from June to September) is a particularly exciting start to the day, especially when thousands worth of Perigords are uncovered by the champion dogs in a single hunt. Pick up some naughty delights where the prized ingredient is the star attraction. The intoxicating earthy aroma hits as soon as you enter the shop; resistance is useless.

With the smell of truffle lingering in your hair and clothes, take your time with a leisurely sojourn and stay overnight in Frankland River or Margaret River and continue to eat and drink your way through Western Australia’s fresh produce and wine.

Craving more travels? Please stay in touch by subscribing to Fluffy Towel today. Thank you and happy travels.

An Apollo Euro Deluxe campervan was generously loaned by Apollo Motorhomes

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Almost exactly halfway between Perth and Albany, the dusty outback town of Wagin toils away beneath a vast expanse of nothingness except for clouds swirling on a background of blue.

As the outback scrub gives away to hills of faded gold, the Southern Wheatbelt region is dotted with cattle languidly grazing in paddocks while lorikeets and galas nibble on roadside picnics of seeds. The quintessential outback town of Wagin is at the crossroads of the Great Southern region; with Albany to the south, Bunbury to the West, Esperance to the south-east and Perth 225 kilometres to the north.

The countryside is sparsely littered with old homesteads on vast fields of wheat and sheep stations. Originally occupied by the Aboriginal Noongar tribe until it was settled in the early 1800s, and located near a series of ancient lakes, Wagin is one of the most heritage-rich rural towns in WA. Pronounced as “way-gin” it’s named after the Noongar word meaning “where the emus watered.”

After turning off Albany Highway onto Arthur Road visitors are welcomed into town by an outdoor gallery of corrugated-iron creations crafted into brightly-painted comical depictions.

The streets reveal equally quirky discoveries like Unicorn Street where I stumble across Wagin Cottage Garden Bed and Breakfast (formerly Buckinghams Bed & Breakfast). Invited in by the hosts, I’m shown around their sprawling gardens, complete with an abundant kitchen garden and beautifully restored 20th-century cottage.

Later that day, I join a group of farmers’ wives at the Palace Hotel. We’ve connected via a mutual friend who spread the word that their town is going to appear in an international travel magazine. As one lady after another appears with welcoming smiles and immaculately dressed children in tow, I note there’s only one little girl out of the rambunctious brood, “There must be something in water,” several pipe up. Well-educated and full of invaluable tips about the region, they all unanimously agree their favourite thing about living in Wagin is each other.

The sense of pride and community spirit is evident every which way where many of the clubs and associations are run by volunteers. This is perfectly demonstrated at the Wagin Historical Village; the largest memorial to pioneers in the state and run entirely by volunteers. Without such generosity the town would have lost The Betty Terry Memorial Theatre (formerly the Little Gem Theatre), built in 1937 and retaining much of its Art Deco charm, it’s the only theatre for 200 kilometres. When owner Christine Rich discovered the production companies were converting from 35mm film to digital, she tirelessly fund-raised to upgrade the facilities to a state-of-the-art 3D Digital Projection and Audio system. She has also applied for a grant to implement a trainee program to keep movies alive in the wheat-belt.

At the heart of WA’s sheep industry, every March Wagin swells from 2,000 to 20,000 for Woolorama, the largest agricultural show in the state. Over two days, the community and visitors from far and wide come together to celebrate agricultural life and their 50th anniversary on 11-12 March 2022. In support of the industry, the nearby Katanning Saleyards opened in 2014 as the largest undercover cattle yards in the state and is capable of holding over 1.5 million sheep annually, and exports all over the world. Katanning is located approximately 50 kilometres south-east away, and on Tuesdays, visitors can watch the truckers and sheepdogs unload the sheep and enjoy dinner in the café or breakfast on Wednesday mornings after the auction. Katanning is also on WA’s Public Silo Trail and you might enjoy 8 Reasons to Follow WA’s Public Silo Trail.

Bart, the giant ram

It’s no wonder Wagin’s most popular tourist attraction is sculpture of a giant ram named Bart, who steadily watches over the town. Standing seven metres tall, 15 metres long and weighing four tonnes, Bart was built in 1985 and is a must visit on your way into town.

Anyone taking the time to visit Wagin will be royally rewarded with a good yarn from any Wagin-ite and an insight into the lives of the farmers quietly supporting one of WA’s most important industries. Something to contemplate on a climb up granite formation Putapin Rock for panoramic views of those working so hard below; a fitting finale to any outback experience.

Getting there:

236 km south of Perth and approximately three hours via Albany Hwy. Extreme temperatures reach the high 30’s Dec-Mar and overnight minimums of two degrees Jun-Sept. The sun is harsh so always apply sunscreen and wear a hat. Carry extra water when travelling and beware of kangaroos on the roads especially at dawn and dusk. Wildflower season runs Aug-Nov. On the last Saturday of October Wagin Burnouts is a drag racing festival open to spectators and has free camping sites.

Where to stay:

The Wagin Motel provides clean and comfortable motel rooms with breakfast. Also, in town the Wagin Cottage Garden Bed and Breakfast offers charming rooms with breakfast, the Palace Hotel Wagin offer comfortable rooms and the Wagin Caravan Park is west of the town. Ellerslie Lady by the Lake Spa and Retreat has cottages and a day spa. Check Airbnb for other options.

What to eat:

Palace Hotel is the most popular and Molly Brown’s in Mitchell Hall serves quaint fare. The Woodanilling Tavern about 25 km south is a local favourite especially for its roast dinners and live entertainment.  The Highbury Tavern about 30 kms north-west is a typical outback pub with a steakhouse and beer garden.

Attractions:

Bart impresses many with his manhood

Giant Ram Tourist Park features the second largest ram in the southern hemisphere measure over 15 metres high and honours the town’s prosperous wool industry.

Woolorama runs 11-12 March 2022 and includes sheep shearing, wool handling, sheep dog trials, dog high-jump, cattle judging as well as fashion parades, art exhibits, kids’ rides, a rodeo and live music.

Wagin Historical Village

Wagin Historical Village is one of the most authentic reconstructions of farming community in Western Australia and is also home to Wagin Tourist Committee Information Centre.

The 10.5 kilometre Wait-Jen Walk Trail has the Noongar name for “emu’s foot print” and follows the ancient dreaming trails formed by the mythical Wagul. Signposted the trail meanders by four lakes, natural vegetation, kangaroos and nocturnal animals. The lakes evaporate in the dry season and the shimmering salt flats are best viewed and photographed at sunset.

31^st December marks 50 years since the land speed record was broken at 429 miles per hour (690 km/h) by Donald Campbell on Dumbleyung Lake in his Bluebird K7 boat. Covering an area of 52 square kilometres it’s a natural habitat for waterbirds, water-sports and picnics.

Follow the plaques and take a self-guided walk especially to the Wagin Library and Art Gallery which also houses a small art gallery.

For more information please go to the Shire of Wagin or Australia’s Golden Outback

Want more of Western Australia? Then check out 8 REASONS TO FOLLOW WA’S PUBLIC SILO TRAIL or THE BEST OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA’S FRANKLAND RIVER.

Craving more travels? Please stay in touch by subscribing to Fluffy Towel today. Thank you and happy travels.

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The Margaret River Region is every Western Australian’s favourite destination. I know, it’s a big statement,  but I can back it up with wine, a stunning coastline, enchanting forests, world-class cuisine and luxurious accommodation.

Private Properties is known for its unforgettable properties in amazing locations ranging from sleek and contemporary designs to pre-loved bungalows, many boasting coastal, vineyard and bush views. They have recently released five new properties for those yearning to escape to Dunsborough, Yallingup and Margaret River.

Dunsborough

Situated on the tranquil banks of Geographe Bay, Dunsborough offers white sandy beaches, gentle walking/cycling trails and a bustling café culture. The bay is a popular for water sports including diving, snorkelling, kayaking and swimming. On the north-western point is the top end of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, which is known for the stunning Cape Naturaliste, the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse and the Cape to Cape Track.

Forest Beach House

Just as the name suggests, you’ll be shrouded in the bushlands of Meelup Regional Park and the sparkling Geographe Bay. Architecturally designed in industrial chic, the polished concrete floors, charred timber and plush leather couches make for a stylish coastal stay for eight. It’s only a stone’s throw to the rockpools and coves of Dunsborough’s coastline.

Yallingup

Surrounded by the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Park, Yallingup is famed for its spectacular views over Yallingup Beach and the Indian Ocean. A world-class drawcard for surfing, snorkelling, swimming and caving, as well as galleries, food and wine, it’s easy to understand why it was named after the Aboriginal word for ‘place of love.’

Apricus, Yallingup

With sweeping views of Yallingup’s coastline, Apricus encapsulates the region’s coastal charm. Light and bright and bathed in modern white furnishings and timber details, family and friends won’t be able to resist gravitating towards the open-plan living area and balcony. Sunset views are guaranteed to a backdrop of bush and turquoise hues. Sleeping eight, it’s a short walk to Yallingup Beach, the new Lagoon Yallingup café and historic Caves House Hotel for pub grub and live music.

Barefeet Retreat, Yallingup

You might be cocooned in luxe decor at the Barefeet Retreat, but the casual coastal vibe invites plenty of barefoot luxury. Almost every room across its three levels promises ocean vistas and the sheltered BBQ deck on the top floor will keep all eight guests (plus your furry friends) satiated as the sun slips into the Indian Ocean. It’s a leisurely stroll down to the family-friendly Yallingup Lagoon and bustling Caves House Hotel.

Sundowner, Yallingup

The Hamptons comes to Yallingup at the Sundowner where you can luxuriate in Western Australia’s famous sunsets slipping into the Indian Ocean from your balcony – or your bed. Sleeping six people across three bedrooms, there’s plenty of space to relax within its crisp and coastal décor. From here you can walk to the Caves House Hotel or to the new Lagoon Yallingup restaurant.

Margaret River Region

The Margaret River Region is approximately a three-hour drive south of Perth and synonymous with towering forests, rugged granite outcrops and jaw-dropping coastline. It’s also famous for its wine and food and the entire region is dotted with wineries, restaurants, cafes, breweries, cideries, distilleries and world-class produce. You could say there’s something for everyone. The township of Margaret River is currently undergoing a make-over but most venues are still open, including the Margaret River Farmers Markets on Saturday mornings.

Bushland Retreat, Margaret River

Overlooking bushland on the outskirts of the Margaret River town, you’re well-placed to enjoy the region’s many eateries, wineries, breweries and attractions. Nestled among towering eucalyptus trees and the river, there are bush trails winding through the forest, along the river and even into the Margaret River Brewhouse. Sleeping eight, this wooden chalet is the perfect spot to cosy up in front of the fireplace.

Private Properties manages over 100 exclusive properties across Western Australia ranging from Perth to Albany including Margaret River, Mandurah, the Swan Valley, Toodyay and the Great Southern Region.

For prices and availability please go to www.privateproperties.com.au

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Larger than life wildlife in Newdegate

Western Australia’s Public Silo Trail is a 1000km self-drive journey linking six towns in the Wheatbelt all the way through to Albany in the Great Southern region.

While the silos themselves are worth the drive to admire the artworks created by world-class local and international artists, the journey reveals an unexpected abundance of culture, tasty cuisine and luxurious accommodation. The road might be long and dusty, but the welcome is always warm and intriguing.

1. WA’s Public Silo Trail

The juxtaposition of painted silos set against the red ochre earth, olive green scrub and the everchanging sky of blues and greys seems surreal. The sheer scale of the artworks transforms the Western Australian landscape into the state’s largest and most iconic outdoor gallery among golden canola, pastoral fields, granite outcrops and pink lakes.

WA’s Public Silo Trail spans from Northam to Merredin, Katanning, Pingrup, Newdegate, Ravensthorpe and Albany. The trail can be broken up into segments covering The Golden Edge Trail (Northam and Merredin), Wave to Wave Trail (Newdegate, Ravensthorpe and Albany) or the Central Heart Trail (Katanning, Pingrup and Newdegate). Maps can be found along the trail and are downloadable at publicsilotrail.com

2. Luxurious Accommodation

The industrial-chic interior of the Premier Mill Hotel

You mighn’t associate the dusty Public Silo Trail with luxury, but you might after staying in Katanning’s historic flour mill converted into the luxurious Premier Mill Hotel. This boutique hotel wouldn’t be out of place in any cosmopolitan city. Moody, industrial and oh-so chic, each of the 22 rooms are unique and a throwback to the glory days as a profitable flour mill once owned and managed by Frederick Henry Piesse. He founded the building in 1890 and invigorated Katanning with a water reservoir, orchards, vineyards, installed the first electric generator, traded in sandalwood and manufactured lemonade – which you can sample in the hotel’s basement at the Cordial Bar as well as cocktails and tapas.

Mary’s Farm Cottages

At Mary’s Farm Cottages in Kukerin the one and two-bedroom cottages are a great place to base yourself while exploring the region along the Public Silo Trail. Fully self-contained, you can enjoy all the gourmet goodies you’ve collected along the way. Check out the marron spread below!

The Beach House at Bayside

The Beach House at Bayside is Albany’s premier bed & breakfast accommodation. Owners Craig and Sally Pullin offer a personalised service to each and every guest staying in their 10 beautifully designed rooms. Always on hand to offer advice on exploring and eating your way through the region, Craig is a wealth of information ranging from the coastal walking trails just moments from the property to day trips to The Stirling Ranges, Porongurups, Denmark and Walpole. Not that you’re likely to ever go hungry in these parts of WA, but the brownies, banana bread, port and chocolates left in our room were a lovely touch.

3. The Public Silo Trail is remote

While Western Australia is faring well in the wake of the pandemic, much of that is contributed to our remoteness. Most of the towns on Western Australia’s Public Silo Trail are remote, especially WA’s most remote winery in the middle of the Wheatbelt in Lake Grace. Bill Walker, the original owner of Walkers Hill Winery, realised his land wasn’t conducive to planting cereal crops. Since he was a fan of wine, he planted some vines in 1995, yielded his first crop in 1998 and won his first award for his Shiraz in 2002. The vineyard was taken over by its new owners in 2011 and they’ve continued on with the wines and also run functions and events from the rustic cellar door.

4. World-class food

While there’s nothing quite as quintessentially Australian as a counter meal in an outback pub, you might be surprised to discover Waygu beef, Asian cuisine, Mt Barker chicken, Plantagenet meat, freshly baked goodies, handmade relishes, jams and spreads are just part of the course along the Public Silo trail. Our picks are the Riversedge Café (Northam) for the views, Lume Café (Northam) for the huge Waygu burgers, Dome’s After Five menu (Katanning), The Cordial Bar (tapas and cocktails in the basement of the Premier Mill Hotel, Katanning), fresh yabbies from Cambinata yabbies (North Kukerin), Hybla (Albany) for local beef and lamb, the upmarket Three Anchors pub (Albany), Hooked on Middelton Beach (Albany) voted as the best fish and chips and the epic breakfasts at The Beach House at Bayside (Albany).

The staggering vastness of Lake Dumbleyung

5. Vast waterways

While driving past vast canola fields we also passed a number of boats. We wondered why anyone would have a boat hundreds of kilometres from the coast? We soon discovered there quite a number of large lakes covering the region including several salt lakes in Lake Grace and waterways and wetlands in The Wheatbelt offering magnificent scenery and watersports. Lake Dumbleyung was made famous when Donald Campbell broke the water speed record in 1964 in his Bluebird and you can visit the replica in Dumbleyung. You can swim, water-ski and paddle around the lake, which is home to over 20,000 bird species, and also enjoy a picnic on the waters edge or at Pussy Cat Hill, which gives some perspective on the enormity of this extraordinary waterway and surrounding landscape.

Chainsaw Sculpture Drive, Albany

6. Art & Culture

Apart from the Public Silo Trail itself, the landscape would inspire the artist in any of us. Northam’s Bilya Koort Boodja Cultural Centre celebrates the culture of the Nyoongar people through a gallery and interpretative exhibitions, plus the town offers some unique architecture. Visit the outdoor sculptural gallery in Wagin and its famous giant ram. Stroll through Katanning’s historic streets and follow the public art trail and if possible, time your visit to catch the Harmony Festival in March for a celebration of the town’s multiculturalism. Pop into Newdegate’s Hainsworth Museum for a taste of pioneer life. Using nothing more than a chainsaw and wood, artist Darrel Radcliffe has created over 100 sculptural pieces in an open-air art gallery on the Chainsaw Sculpture Drive in Albany.

7. Community spirit along the Public Silo Trail

While a rural lifestyle on a remote farm seems idyllic and peaceful, you might be surprised to discover life can get hectic, especially for the women in these regions who not only raise families often with limited resources, but they also help manage the farms, do community work and run their own businesses. Although no longer open, one example of the community’s entrepreneurial spirit could be found at The Store Café 6343 in Pingrup where three local women got together to set-up and manage the café, which was run on a volunteer basis. Before its opening in 2018, they were one hour away from fresh bread and milk and although its closure is a big blow to the community, as they say, watch this space as there has been some interest in resurrecting this much-loved spot. Another example is Dumbleyung Mini Mall in the cute town of Dumbleyung, which is a small business incubator for locally made products. And if you’re lucky you just never know who might jump in for a visit.

8. Chasing the light

Don’t forget your camera! The amount of times you will want to stop along the way could easily add hours onto the journey – the scenery is simply staggering. And as the light changes throughout the day and throughout the seasons, no two scenes ever look the same.

Carmen Jenner was a guest of FORM, The Premier Mill Hotel, Mary’s Farm Cottages and the Beach House at Bayside.

Want more of Western Australia? Then check out THE BEST OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA’S FRANKLAND RIVER or WAGIN: AN OUTBACK GEM.

It’s always best to plan ahead when travelling throughout Western Australia and even in some of these remote towns bookings are essential. Also check Covid-19 regional travel restrictions before setting out on any journey and follow social distancing and hand sanitation rules at all times.

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Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West is Western Australia’s ultimate travel guide. This 246-page coffee table book shares the many natural wonders, cultural enclaves, quirky anecdotes and surprising revelations about Western Australia.

The rolling vineyards of the Ferguson Valley

Naturally, we covered Margaret River in Australia’s Southwest and caught up with celebrity chef Peter Kuruvita. We picked out a few lesser-known drops in the Ferguson Valley, just two hours south of Perth. Or float through the Peel region aboard a houseboat and swim with dolphins in Mandurah and Bunbury.

Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West explores Australia’s Southwest

Join us on a flight over the pink hues of Lake Hillier in Esperance in the Golden Outback. We couldn’t resist heading to the rugged coastline of Australia’s Great Southern. Or head north to Australia’s Northwest to Broome and Karijini.

An unlikely character on Broome’s Cable Beach

While co-writing and co-producing this book and immersing myself in my home state of Western Australia, I couldn’t help but notice the parallels of my transition into adulthood to that of Perth’s coming of age.

Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West explores Karijini National Park

There’s no denying Western Australia is remote. We invite you to gaze up at sheets of bright night skies. But it’s worth the journey for its wilderness coupled with its unexpected sophistication. Even the most zealot local will be compelled to dip into this unique book, with Western Australia playing the beautiful yet aloof protagonist.

Winning an IPPY at the Independent Book Publishers Awards in New York City!

Australia’s Extra.Ordinary. West reached international acclaim in New York City – one of my favourite places on earth. In May 2019, we won a gold IPPY Award in the Australia/New Zealand regional non-fiction category at the Independent Book Publisher’s Awards in New York City. How exciting!

If you would like a copy of this extraordinary travel guide of Western Australia, I’d love to hear from you at carmen@fluffytowel.com.

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Photo compliments of Walk into Luxury

Have you ever considered walking the 135-kilometre Cape to Cape trek spanning Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin in the Margaret River region? But does the thought of camping put you off? A Walk into Luxury tour with luxurious accommodation and gourmet cuisine might just change your mind.

I’ve joined Walk into Luxury for an exclusive two-night Cape to Cape package in Margaret River, about three hours south of Perth. My tour begins with a five-course degustation and a stay at Cape Lodge and it’s the perfect way to begin a weekend escape of food, wine and walking; in that order. In saying that, traversing any part of the Cape to Cape trek does require a medium level of fitness.

Although Walk into Luxury doesn’t span the entire trail, they have opened up the track to a whole new audience wanting to stop and smell the buttercups; the experience certainly lives up to its tagline of “a new way to walk.” However, the three, four and six day treks cover a wider range of territory and terrains including limestone cliffs and caves, coastal expanses, forests, varying gradients and calf-pumping treks across beaches; the scenery may just be beautiful enough to distract you from the burn.

Treks offer a sweet taste of the landscape and include accommodation in a variety of boutique hotels including Injidup Spa Retreat, Losari Retreat, Smiths Beach Resort and there’s also one starting in Perth with a stay at the six-star COMO The treasury. Gourmet meals, wine, spa treatments, daypacks and private transfers are all part of the service. A good pair of walking shoes, light and practical clothes, a hat and camera are essential, and perhaps bring a change of clothes for a leisurely lunch.

Our chauffeur arrives at the civilized time of 9.00am and drops us off at Wyadup car park with sweeping views along the coastline where we watch for whales and frolicking dolphins. We amble through the sand dunes and rocky granite coastline to Indijup Spa Retreat boasting villas with private plunge pools, in-room massages, chefs on demand and at sunset, guests are invited to a spiritual didgeridoo performance. As the sun heats up the day, the nearby natural springs tantalise from afar.

We’re transferred to the lookout above Contos Beach and it’s an easy stroll towards the forest with a pit-stop of morning tea overlooking Cape Freycinet. There are few times I’ve ever felt so wonderfully isolated. It’s just us and the elements. The sun warms our journey as the ocean crashes in the distance. Lizards rustle amongst the natural perfume of rosemary as sea salt lingers on our lips. Its pure escapism and the luxury to indulge in unadulterated nature at will.

Photo compliments of Walk into Luxury

Heading into Boyanup Forest (Boyanup Forest), we’re dwarfed by towering karris and peppermint trees as kookaburras and cockatoos laugh at us from above in our quest for a kangaroo, echidna or possum encounter. We stride into our pick-up point where our chariot awaits with cool towels and cold water and whisks us off for a late lunch at winery Leeuwin Estate (Leeuwin Estate).

We indulge in the 2011 Leeuwin Estate Brut and panko crumbed oysters on the balcony overlooking the expansive lawn, which annually hosts concerts to the likes of Chris Isaak and Tom Jones. My host and Walk into Luxury owner Nikki King takes a moment to reminisce the day she was proposed to. This was the scene of an elaborate proposal orchestrated by her to-be fiancé, which entailed a helicopter, a “Will you marry me?” banner and exactly the same drop of Leeuwin bubbles. Ocean trout, 45-day dry aged Black Angus, a cheese platter and the Leeuwin Estate Art Series are lingered over for the rest of the afternoon in this impossibly romantic spot until our return to Cape Lodge.

Back in my lake view suite, a platter soon arrives laden with goodies off the main menu including chicken soup with truffles, Rangers Valley beef, cheese, salmon and cured meats. Resistance is useless even though today’s six-kilometre trek barely walked off lunch let alone last night’s degustation at Cape Lodge’s restaurant; one of Australia’s finest and voted one of the Top Ten in the World for Food in Conde Naste Traveller’s Gold List. The menu changes regularly and features regional specialities like venison, Donnybrook marron, Wagin duck and quail matched by a sommelier to the famous wines of Margaret River, and beyond.

We crane our necks to take in the magnitude of the midnight blue star-studded sky. The galaxy above appears to embrace our little pocket of Margaret River. Talk about receiving the star treatment. From my balcony, the turquoise lake sparkles with diamond droplets, but it’s not long until my attention is enticed by an impossibly deep bath.

Walk into Luxury offer treks all over the country and for more information please visit go to www.walkintoluxury.com.au

Carmen Jenner was a guest of Walk into Luxury and ‘Walk on the West Side’ was originally published in Luxury Travel Magazine in 2016.

You might like to extend your Margaret River trip with a stay in one of these glorious properties.

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