Like a jewel dropped into the ocean, Sri Lanka sparkles bright. Tamer than its Indian neighbour, the spicy isle delights with culture, wildlife, gems, adventure, welcoming locals and exotic beauty every which way.

The figurative doors have flung open, and tourists are invited in as one might welcome a long-lost friend, or in this case, a young friend. You mightn’t have considered travelling to Sri Lanka with kids but read on, and you’ll soon wonder why you haven’t ventured to this tear-drop island before. Whether you opt for an independent trip or a customised tour with Soul Sri Lanka, the memories made will last long after you return home.

Accommodating restaurant owners cater well to your cherub’s exacting food requirements when travelling to Sri Lanka with kids. Often compared to Indian food, Sri Lankan curries use a wider spice base, less oil and a gentler cooking method to heighten the flavours. The secret is the freshness combined with a high standard of cleanliness ensuring safe eating for your beloveds. There are also excellent Italian restaurants, seafood just plucked from the ocean, plenty of Western and Chinese options, and if nothing else steamed rice, noodles and fresh fruit are healthy options for fussy eaters.

Beginning with the capital, and although Colombo seems like an unlikely family destination, it does have a certain charm about it. Built in 1877 and housed in an impressive colonial building, the Colombo National Museum is a fascinating starting point to Sri Lanka’s cultural history and the museum is on the south side of the city’s largest park, Viharamahadevi Park. Nearby is the air-conditioned One Galle Face Mall, offering upscale fashion, including fantastic children’s clothes.

More intrepid families will lose themselves in the Pettah Bazaar and its clothes, jewellery, Ayurvedic herbs and fresh produce, and it’s best to avoid the early morning and after-work crowds.

Gangaramaya Temple

There are temples galore and one in particular worth exploring is the Gangaramaya Temple complex, which was established in 1890 and includes a library, museum, hundreds of Buddha’s sitting in various positions and a Bodhitree.

The elegant Galle Face Hotel makes the most of its westerly direction offering its guests crimson sunsets and high tea and cocktails. Take a break from the heat and relax like the colonials on the cool terrace and lawned area. In the adjacent wing is the refurbished Galle Face Regency with a salt-water pool open to the public for a small fee. When the sun sets in spectacular fashion, the neighbouring Galle Face Green heaves with families and street food for a local experience.

Galle Face Green at sunset

Mt Lavinia Hotel

For more epic sunsets, the swanky Mount Lavinia Hotel in the expat and family-friendly neighbourhood of Mt Lavinia, charges a small fee for pool access, but the spectacular views and beach are free. North of Colombo is the charming beach town of Negombo with several very good hotels and guesthouses, an old quarter and an interesting fish market.

Negombo Fish Market

Heading much further north is the Cultural Triangle and although the dusty ancient ruins of Anuradhapura (showcasing Sinhalese culture 2,000 years ago), Polonnaruwa (the former medieval capital), and Sigiriya (palace remains on top of a huge outcrop) may not hold the kids’ attention span for long, a safari will.

Minneriya National Park and Kaudulla National Park are in the region and host herds of elephants, deer, sloth, bears, abundant bird life, monkeys and the elusive leopard.

The hill town of Kandy is included in the Cultural Triangle and can be reached by a scenic train ride from Colombo.  Listed as a World Heritage City and hosting the Tooth Relic of the Buddha, Kandy is famous for its Kandyan dancing and drumming, and for 10 days over the months of July and August is the procession of Kandy Esala Perahera to honour the sacred tooth. The procession includes thousands of Kandyan drummers, dancers and decorated elephants; surely a sight your beloveds will remember for many years to come

Colourful Kandy

If time permits on your Sri Lankan adventure take a jaunt over to the tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya. As the mist lifts, green tea bushes weave over rolling hills and you could almost imagine you’re starring in your own Dilmah Tea T.V. advertisement. The mild temperature is a cool reprise from the flats and a night or two in a colonial hotel or converted tea-house is an escape from the maddening pace. Before heading to the south coast, break up the arduous journey at the pretty town of Ella and its stunning views through Ella Gap, temples and waterfalls.

The south coast awaits with its idyllic beaches, outstanding restaurants, and relaxing pace.

It won’t be hard to spot the foreigners who came for a visit and couldn’t bear to leave. The hippy surf town of Unawatuna hugs the coast and when you’re back home, don’t be surprised to find yourself longing for this spot. Restaurants and bars dot the palm-tree lined shore as locals and visitors alike frolick in the waves. Young families should head for the area beneath the temple where the currents aren’t as strong. Nearby are the quieter but equally gorgeous beaches of Tangalla, Weligama and the exquisite Mirissa.

A few kilometres west is the picturesque fort town of Galle and its Dutch-colonial buildings, artisans and its tres chic reputation. Unlike most of this region which was devastated by the tsunami, the fort was unscathed and a wander through its winding streets will enchant.

As the end draws near, the journey back to Colombo can be broken up with a visit to one of the turtle hatcheries in Kosgoda. See if you can pick the five different species of these cute critters? Spot the green, olive ridley, hawksbill, leatherback and loggerhead turtles make their perilous journey back to the water; much as you prepare for the journey back to reality. P.S. The Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort next door to the turtle hatchery has one of the best buffets I’ve seen in Sri Lanka (and that’s saying something), an epic pool and direct beach access.

Sri Lanka with Kids: The Lowdown

After surviving the 25-year civil war and the tsunami that devastated much of its south, Sri Lanka is a country of resilience.

Transport: Apart from the roads in the south, which were rebuilt after the tsunami, many are in poor condition or are in the process of being upgraded. As a result, the traffic is hard going, time-consuming and, at best, invigorating. Always allow more time than you think you will need, use a recommended driver and inspect the vehicle (particularly for working seatbelts) before negotiating rates.

Tuks-tuks: A fun way to travel short distances, and hang on tight. Check out the decorations inside, including the tame pin-up posters, and take the time out to listen to the driver’s tales.

Military: There is a military presence, and the frequent sight of guns can be a little alarming, and there are occasional vehicle inspections.

Heat: The humidity is energy-zapping, and the sun is harsh. Don’t forget your sunscreen, cover up and rehydrate regularly. On the upside, the kids will be pleasantly exhausted and will sleep soundly; as will you.

Beach: The tidal currents are strong, and the provision of lifeguards hasn’t exactly caught on yet, so always take care at the beach and if in doubt, ask the locals.

Health: Sri Lanka is very clean, however consulting with a doctor before leaving home is highly recommended. The chemists and supermarkets are well stocked with medicines but may not have familiar brands. Clinics can be variable and consult with your consulate on the best treatment.

Utilities: With regular power outages, the air-conditioning and refrigeration are unreliable and water pressure is low.

Accommodation: There is a wide range of accommodation options, but it can be hit and miss and it’s advisable to do your research.

Insects: The mosquitos are brutal and insect repellent is essential.

Pace: Time moves very slowly in Sri Lanka and while this is part of its charm, the little ones might not understand why their lunch is taking so long. Be prepared for long waits in restaurants, at monuments, when touring and shopping.

Sri Lanka with kids: How to get to Sri Lanka

If you’re travelling from Australia, there are direct flights with Sri Lankan Airlines from Adelaide, Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane. Hopefully, Perth will be added to the route soon, but in the meantime, you can fly via Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

Sri Lanka with kids: Things to do

Soul Sri Lanka customises tours for families of any generation and here is more information.

Colombo National Museum, Albert Cres, Colombo 7

Viharamahadevi Park, Ananda Coomaraswamy Mw

One Galle Face Mall, 1A Centre Road, Colombo

Pettah Bazaar, Pettah District, Colombo 11

Gangaramaya Temple, Sri Jinaratana Rd, Colombo 2

Mount Lavinia Hotel, 100 Hotel Rd, Mt Lavinia

Minneriya National Park and Kaudulla National Park, arrange transport from Giritale 12km northwest of Polonnaruwa

Kosgoda Turtle Conservation Project, Galle Rd (beachside) just north of Kosgoda

Sri Lanka with kids: Where to stay

Cinnamon Grand Colombo, 77 Galle Road, Colombo

Galle Face Hotel, Galle Rd, Colombo

Hilton Colombo Residences, (serviced apartments) Union Place, Colombo 2

Kandy House, Ratwatte Walauwa, Amunugama, Gunnepana

Radisson Hotel Kandy, 31 Saranankara Road, Kandy

Deer Park Hotel, Elahera Road, Giritale, Polonnaruwa

Amangalla, cnr Middle & Church St, Galle Fort, Galle

Thaproban Beach House, Unawatuna Beach, Galle

Thambapanni Retreat, Unawatuna, Galle

Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort, 1 Okanda Road, Hiddaruwa, Naape

Villa Araliya, 154/10 Porutota Rd, Negombo

Villa Araliya

Sri Lanka with Kids: Where to eat

The Gallery Cafe (recommendation: Black Pork Curry),  2 Alfred House Rd, Colombo

Ministry of Crab, No. 4 Hospital Street, Old Dutch Hospital Complex, Colombo

The Fort Printers (fine chic dining), 39 Pedlar St, Galle Fort, Galle

Mama’s Galle Fort Roof Cafe (casually tasty with lovely views), 76 Leyn Baan St, Galle Fort

Dream House (Italian food at its best at local prices) Unawatuna Beach, Galle

For more Sri Lankan adventures read 11 Unforgettable Things To Do in Sri Lanka, South Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris and beaches and Under the Sri Lankan Spell

For more inspiration check out So Sri Lanka.

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Hanoi, Hue, Ho Chi Minh, Hoi An, humanity, horns, honking, hovering, hammering, haze, haunting…the soundtrack of traffic in Vietnam.

Toots and motorbikes surround us on a honking Hanoi street as we bravely contemplate stepping out into the oncoming traffic in Vietnam. We don’t look left or right but instead directly ahead and careful to not make any sudden movements, we steadily walk in a straight line as though we are being tested for drunken behaviour. Given our mad jaunt onto the road, doubting our sobriety would have been perfectly reasonable; if we had been anywhere else in the world other than Vietnam. The traffic parts like the Red Sea, and as quickly as it opens, the gap fills like water flowing rapidly into a jagged stream.

To think only 24 hours earlier as we descended, I had been so excited to see the crazy intersections with their weaving traffic in Vietnam. In a population of 84 million people, there are approximately 16 million motorbikes, and from the plane window, it looked as if there was a good portion of this number directly below.  I had naively thought how serene it looked. Like a ballet where the dancers have rehearsed their routines so well they could perform blindfolded, only here their masks are worn over their noses and mouths. Of course, the performance I saw from above was executed in silence, apart from the acoustics of the plane.

It’s like the city has given birth to a million horns and every newborn is crying at the same time to be fed.

Now out on the street and in the midst of all the action, the honking is relentless day and night overpowering the sounds of humanity, traffic, jackhammers and sirens.  Honks compete to be heard above each other. I don’t mind the one echoing until its tone softens into silence but there’s one that sounds like a trumpet, another has a jazzy tune similar to the Pink Panther theme, and there’s the truck horn which unnerves even the most stoic of people, especially when they discover the bellowing is not coming from a huge vehicle but from a motorbike.  Of course, there’s also the driver who has his hand permanently on the horn. I wonder how anyone knows who the horns are meant for.

Perhaps part of the problem is our timing. We are still under the graceful spell of Hoi An in central Vietnam, a magical place lit by lanterns and ladies on bicycles. During our visit, the river burst its banks, turning the streets into canals, and as the water-lined streets flickered with candlelight, the sunset bathed us in a rose-coloured glow. But here the only thing the streets in Hanoi are streaming with is motorbikes, taxis and cyclo-drivers. The pavements are full of merchants, eateries and more motorbikes using the sidewalk for parking. The streets are lined with Vespa boutiques and vehicle repair shops and even the ground floors of many of the buildings are used for parking.

In Hanoi, a blanket hangs over the city, but it’s not there to snuggle up to; it’s more like something to throw off in a fit of restless sleep. Motor vehicles emit a toxic stew, and I later learned the city smog in Vietnam’s major cities can be as thick as a mile. And given that we can’t see one block away from our apartment on the 18^th floor, I can believe this.

The sound of yelping dogs joins in with the cacophony below. We guess they are also victims of the traffic and the yelps abruptly cease as the poor creatures are put out of their misery.  Our hotel sits on the site of Hoa Lo Prison, also known as the Hanoi Hilton. Much of the original structure was demolished, as though removing most of the prison would eradicate those crimes of war committed on the very spot we rest our heads. What remains of the prison is full of propaganda and includes images of American soldiers having a fabulous time laughing and playing cards.  Now, the citizens of Hanoi have been condemned to a lifetime of imprisonment in pollution.

Vietnam is an intriguing and complex country, and I’m sure I will visit again, especially to the tranquil centre. For how long these heavenly places will exist is worrying, which gives me a sense of urgency to return. On first impression much of the country’s beauty is hidden, just out of reach to the tourist on a fleeting visit. Yet, it is as seductive as a Vietnamese woman, with her haunting eyes peaking out above a protective face mask. She is barely saved from the hovering haze, much as tourists are merciless under the spell of her mysterious charm.

For another perspective of Vietnam, you can read all about what cruising the Mekong is really like when taking a boutique cruise with CF Mekong Cruises or if you’re wondering how to get to Vietnam, check out my review of VietJet Air. And for more information about travel in Vietnam, go to Visit Vietnam.

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Our day’s begin shrouded in mist, as the yoga pavilion sighs with guests working their way through the Sun Salutation routine. Despite the obscenely early hour and chilly air, I’m in a state of bliss. Who am I? I don’t normally “do” early mornings, or even yoga for that matter, and yet I’m happily performing my poses in a dreamlike state.

We unravel our bodies into horizontal positions beneath our blankets with the intention of emptying our minds as our bendy instructor guides us through a meditation session. Her white robes billow a trail of incense in their wake. Truth be told, I’m a bit distracted by my stomach grumbling in anticipation of a bowl of steaming hot porridge, rice and lentil balls with coconut chutney, fresh fruit and freshly ground coffee; praise the Lord, or Ganesh, caffeine is on the menu.

Among the poolside cottages, garden tented cottages and a three-bedroom cottage, Shreyas sleeps guests from all walks of life; including my 11-year-old daughter who, with some gentle coaxing, approaches the vegetarian menu, yoga and chanting with mild amusement. Families are more than welcome and in fact one of the guests commends me on exposing my cherub to such a wonderful experience and plans on doing the same when her own daughter is of a similar age.

Over 70 staff members tend to our every whim without us even realising it most of the time; someone always seems to be on hand to answer the questions which haven’t even popped into our heads yet. My favourite act of kindness, however is the shoe turning: whenever I enter a building and remove my sandals they are magically facing in the right direction for me to slip my feet into when I leave. This isn’t a deed of subservience but instead a belief that no-one is superior or inferior and is only performed if someone happens to walk by and notices the shoes are facing the wrong direction. The exact balance of discretion and service is an art very few retreats have mastered as seamlessly as Shreyas.

Hundreds upon hundreds of freshly cut marigolds and roses from local nurseries adorn the grounds as playful squirrels flit across our path for secret tree meetings. Inspired by the Rajasthan style, the private tented garden cottages embrace the natural surroundings with open bathrooms and patios designed to while away the day in between sessions. The rooms are aptly awarded Sanskrit names like shanti meaning peace or vairagya meaning detachment. The three-bedroom cottage is perfect for groups or families, while the poolside cottages inspire midnight swims. As the General Manager shares, “It’s a home away from home.” When can I move in?

Despite the daily schedule, nothing ever feels rushed and there is never any obligation to participate if you don’t feel like it. One of the few decisions to make is whether to enjoy the company of the kingfishers or parrots, find a secret place to flop, like the private pavilion overlooking the community garden or round up the troupes for a game of cricket; of course there’s a cricket pitch, this is India after all.

If I could bare to leave the grounds, I might also take an excursion to one of the local villages, temples, markets or visit the nearby orphanage with food sourced from the property. A synchronised abhyanga Ayurveda massage performed by two therapists working in unison is suggested; I surrender and am grateful another decision is made for me especially considering the number of treatments on the day spa menu.

Shreyas is deemed as one of the finest yoga retreats around and fellow guest Annemaree Rowley of yoga tour company Cool Calm Collected agrees, “Imagine a stunningly beautiful, rustic, peaceful yogic oasis amidst 25 acres of natural surrounds. The yoga takes me back to my original training, classical and gently presented. The service is impeccable, so attentive and considerate. The delightful cuisine is vegetarian at its best. But what sets Shreyas apart from anywhere I have been? It’s cosy! Comfort, no matter where I sit, lie down or curl up. I feel as though I am a guest in someone’s home alight with not only candles, but with love.”

Even the staff participate in daily yoga and chanting sessions. A wonderful perk of the job given guests travel from all over the world to this boutique yoga retreat in India. Approximately 40% are repeat customers, with many returning annually on a quest to indulge in limitless yoga, weight loss, to unwind from their busy lives or to work through relationship or emotional issues. One such practice is Yoga Nidra which builds on pratyahara, referring to the withdrawal of the senses, and is likened to a conscious deep sleep designed for spiritual exploration. It’s one of the deepest kinds of relaxation and reduces tension and other ailments and after just one session, I was enlightened; regardless of whether you’re experiencing pleasure or pain, you’re always going to be left yearning, whether that be for more pleasure or less pain. Indeed, as months later, I crave even just one more hour at Shreyas.

On our final night, a candlelit dinner awaits in the garden by a warming bonfire. The nights and early mornings are crisp during the southern Indian winter, but many a fair skin will suffer beneath the sun’s intensity during the day. Tonight’s delicious menu begins with a soup of tomato and mint shorba and a beetroot, cucumber and dill salad, followed by okra with baby onion, saute ridge gourd, pink lentils with multi-grain roti and brown rice with yoghurt and pappadums with a grand finale of grilled pineapple with orange sauce and fresh fruits. Most of the ingredients are sourced from the onsite organic garden and before the food is prepared, the staff chant a prayer. The menu is customised based on the initial consultation with an Ayurveda doctor, depending on your personal health requirements and tastes.

Every aspect of Shreya’s is dedicated to embracing the holistic philosophy of yoga to cleanse the body, calm the mind and energise the soul. I suspect few guests miss the absence of room service, meat, alcohol or a TV in their room as there’s a luxurious theatre room. Especially when you have the luxury to indulge entirely in your wellbeing within the exotic embrace of Indian hospitality.

Getting there: Fly into Bangalore from most major Asian capitals and Shreyas will greet you at the airport.

Rates: Nightly rates start at US$280 single share or $S$380 double share, but few guests stay for just one night. Packages include Panchakarma, Silent Retreat, Ayurveda Rejuvenation, Yoga Retreat, The Joy of Giving, Wellness for the Soul, Weight Management, Culinary Experience and Detox. Prices include accommodation, meals, group yoga sessions and use of all the facilities.

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One of the oldest forms of holistic healing in the world, Ayurveda promotes natural beauty, positive health and a long life. Sri Lanka heaves with Ayurveda practitioners, and treatments vary from wandering into a centre for a relaxing massage to an intensive stay at an Ayurvedic retreat in Sri Lanka where you’ll be revived physically, emotionally and spiritually.

Before booking your plane tickets and going all zen-like, here’s the lowdown on what to expect at an Ayurveda resort in Sri Lanka.

1.       Up close & personal

It’s going to be confronting. There will be much poking and prodding and expect questions about your diet, exercise regime, lifestyle and medical history. The physical examination gets to the root of any ailments and leaves no sin unturned.

2.       Dosha

When your dosha (life force) is in harmony, your body is in good health. Employing the five elements of earth, water, fire, air and space, there are three doshas:

• Vata: air and space relating to body, movement, mind and senses
• Pitta: fire and water relating to heat, metabolism, energy and digestion
• Kapha: earth and water relating to physical stability, body structure and fluids

Practitioners assess the dosha of each quest to determine their diet, medicinal herbs and treatments throughout their stay. The prognosis isn’t open to negotiation; doctor’s orders.

3.       Potions

Every guest is provided with bespoke herbal medicines using herbs and plants native to Sri Lanka like leaves, bark, berries, roots and flowers. Taken several times a day, it’s an acquired taste.

4.       Treatments

The daily treatments use a lot of oil and include head, face, and body massages (sometimes synchronised), herbal inhalation, herbal water baths and herbal steam baths. Unique treatments include:

Shirodhara: Oil is gently poured from a special vessel for 30 minutes onto the third eye on the forehead.

Eye therapy: eyeballs are washed with oil to relieve tired eyes

Panchakarma: an intensive cleanse incorporating several treatments

The food at Siddhalepa is as healthy as it is tasty

5.       Food

An Ayurvedic menu is mainly vegetarian with a small amount of fish. Food is classified into six taste categories of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent and astringent. The philosophy recommends all categories are to be included in every meal to achieve proper nutritional balance. Guests are advised to only eat the dishes aligned with their dosha.

6.       Sacrifice

Caffeine junkies and smokers may suffer as stimulants aren’t welcome at some retreats, while other retreats accept moderation. There won’t be any gin and tonics at sunset either. It’s also advised to avoid the sun as skin will be sensitive after treatments. It’s best to bring your old bathers and sarongs as the oils don’t come out of fabric. Intensive treatments may induce side effects as both body and soul are cleansed.

Photo credit: Tourism Sri Lanka

7.       Appearance

Allow your inner beauty to shine and forgo the hair styling and makeup because the oily treatments will undo any work spent in front of the mirror. On that note, contact lens wearers should bring some spares and glasses because oil can get in the eye depending on the treatment and damage your contact lenses.

8.       Behaviour

As buried emotions are released, the behaviours of some guests can be erratic, with some appearing ecstatic, angry, sad or withdrawn. Give your fellow guests space, after all, you are all there to heal and relax in your own way.

A elixir for the soul and body

9.       Indulge

There are very few times in life where total self-immersion is possible.  Rest whenever you feel tired and indulge in the pampering. Succumb to the treatments, nutrition and potions because there is true freedom and leaving yourself in the hands of professionals.

10.   Results

Ayurveda alleviates many ailments, from headaches to chronic back pain and more serious diseases, including detoxing after invasive treatments such as chemo. Some even swear it’s anti-aging and since Sri Lankans are believed to have the longest life expectancy in South East Asia, the proof is right before you. If nothing else, swanning around in little more than a sarong adorning your radiant skin is a liberating experience.

Photo credit Siddhalepa Ayurveda Health Resort

Want to try it for yourself? With so many to choose from, I highly recommend Wedagedara Spa (Kandy), Ayusha Weda Madura (Ella), Shine Spa (Sheraton Kosgoda Turtle Beach Resort, by Marriott Bonvoy) and Good Spa Weligama. If you’re looking for something more involved, try one of the four Barberyn Ayurveda Resorts or Siddhalepa Ayurveda Resort in Mount Lavinia (Colombo) and Wadduwa, about 30 minutes south of Colombo.

If you enjoyed this fleeting insight into what an Ayurveda retreat in Sri Lanka is really like, you might enjoy A funny thing happened at the Ayurveda spa in Sri Lanka and while you’re researching or dreaming about a trip to this magical island, check out 10 unforgettable things to do in Sri Lanka.

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Greens Pool…too beautiful to be believed

ANZAC Day commemorates Albany’s wartime role and presents a patriotic reason to further explore Western Australia’s Great Southern region.

The approach into Western Australia’s Great Southern region features weathered scrub bordered by the rugged peaks of the distant Stirling Ranges. It’s an idyllic scene, unchanged for more a million years. But over a century ago, peace was cruelly broken by the dramatic departure of Australian troops for Europe.

On 1 November 1914, the first convoy of Australian and New Zealand troops sailed from Albany to fight in the first World War. There were more than 40,000 men and 17,000 horses on 54 ships in two convoys, with the ships carrying up to four times as many men as they were originally built to transport. Many of the soldiers on-board would never return to Australia.

Today there is little sign of turmoil as holiday-makers flock to Western Australia’s Great Southern for adventure, culture, food, wine and relaxation. History is never forgotten though. To mark the anniversary, many make the four-hour journey south of Perth to honour ANZAC day with a driving holiday throughout the region.

Albany and the ANZACs

Our wartime heroes are remembered on ANZAC Day, 25 April when Albany honours their sacrifice and victory with ANZAC events, which include dawn and main service, events, afterall, Albany is the site of Australia’s first dawn service conducted by Padre White. If you’re in town, a visit to the National ANZAC Centre is a must. The state-of-the-art museum allows visitors to travel alongside the troops to Egypt, Gallipoli and the Western Front while interacting with touch-points and digital displays and a live web interface for the public to contribute their own stories.

WA’s Great Southern’s attractions

While the ANZACs may be the main focus, the Great Southern Region also has a fascinating social and indigenous history of its own. On your way to or from Albany take a sidetrip to Kodja Place visitor and cultural centre in Kojonup, 150km north of Albany, and experience “The Real Australian Story” with its poignant exhibitions, stories and artworks depicting the life of WA’s settlers, Indigenous community and migrants. In the heart of farming country, and home to vineyards and olive groves, the town also has some of the state’s oldest buildings.

Any journey to the Great Southern Region must also include a visit to the Great Southern Triangle. The peak of the triangle is Mount Barker, which extends south-west to Denmark and south to Albany. A renowned wine district, the triangle is famous for its Riesling, Chardonnay and Shiraz varieties. If you only have time for one make it Oranje Tractor Wines for their organic wines and delicious platters featuring ingredients freshly plucked from the gardens. Basing yourself at the Hilton Garden Inn Albany is ideal for explorations and click here for more information.

The region is famed for succulent yabbies

If in town over a weekend, sample the region’s sweet marron, organic meats and cheeses at the Albany Farmer’s Markets (Saturdays) and Albany Boatshed Markets (Sundays). For more gourmet adventures in the region, please check out A Gourmet Road Trip from Albany to Denmark.

WA’s Great Southern’s natural beauty

Bushwalking and nature-loving enthusiasts will be drawn to the Porongurup National Park and Stirling Ranges (the only place to receive snowfall in the state) best reached from either Mt Barker or Kendenup (north of Mt Barker). Both mountain ranges have charming villages for petrol and food stops as well as galleries, accommodation and general stores.

The South Coast Highway heading towards Denmark and its sky-scraping karri forests feature untouched landscapes and a breathtaking coast. Follow the signs to Scotsdale Road and Mt Shadforth’s scenic drives. Wilson Inlet, Nullaki Peninsula and the Southern Ocean draw photographers attempting to capture this extraordinary natural environment.

The wild Great Southern Ocean

Stand at WA’s most southerly point in West Cape Howe National Park before heading to William Bay National Park for the stunning Greens Pool and Elephant Rock. If staying in Denmark, the eco-certified Karma Chalets, the self-contained Pelicans at Denmark or hexagonal The Combe with unsurpassed views over Wilson inlet are all good options.

In and around Albany

Mt Clarence and the Princess Royal Fortress, built in 1893 as the first federal defence of Australia, is Albany’s highest point and affords a stunning view of the Sound. If you walk the gum-tree-lined Avenue of Honour on Apex Drive to the top of Mt Clarence, you’ll find the Desert Mounted Corps Memorial, which is a replica of the statue erected at Suez in 1932. Overlooking the Ataturk Channel, named in honour of ANZAC Cove in Gallipoli, stands a statue of Mustafa Kamal, A steel walkway leads up to where Rector Padre White stood in 1930 and held the first-ever observance of a dawn parade on Anzac Day.

Home to WA’s first European settlement, the protected waters of King George Sound are a wonderful place to explore both land and sea. On the southern coast of King George Sound, the site of the decommissioned Cheynes Beach Whaling Station, now named Discovery Bay, includes a museum highlighting Western Australia’s dark whaling history.

Natural Bridge and The Gap

At Torndirrup National Park, the power of the Southern Ocean is on display. The Gap and Natural Bridge are spectacular natural rock formations carved by the surging water. Pay particular attention to your safety as the 300-metre climb across the walkway over the rocks can be slippery with the spray from the surging and unpredictable waves.

Albany offers numerous accommodation options including the Dog Rock Motel, attached to one of the town’s finest restaurants Lime 303, or the cosy Beach House at Bayside and their hearty breakfasts and warm hospitality.

King George Sound

Towards Hopetoun

Heading east out of Albany towards Hopetoun, the remote and beautiful Great South West Edge region offers views of stunning coastal headlands, pretty inlets, mountains, valleys and wildflowers. Past Hopetoun towards Bremer Bay the Fitzgerald River National Park spans over 330,000 hectares and is home to over 1,800 plant species and wildlife. The opportunities are endless for photography, bushwalking, sand-dunning, canoeing, fishing and camping. Snorkel at Barrens Beach, whale-watch from Point Ann or go house-boating on the Hamersley Inlet. For impressive seascape and mountains views, hike up to Beacon Hill or look out to the Fitzgerald River National Park and Hamersley Inlet from Sepucralis Hill Lookout.

Not only is this pocket of the state’s expansive and dramatic landscape adorned with nature, adventure, culture, food and wine galore, but the land is steeped in history.

Few destinations offer such diversity and the Great Southern region of Western Australia makes for a glorious driving holiday.

Fast facts

Where: Denmark to Hopetoun lies within the Great Southern region and is best reached via the Albany Hwy, 360km south of Perth.

When: Summer temperatures reach 32 degrees and winters drop below 10 degrees. The wildflower season runs from August to November from Mt Barker all the way down to the coast from Walpole to Bremer Bay. May to early October is peak whale-watching season.

Distance: Denmark to Hopetoun is 389km; Perth to Denmark is 420km via Albany Hwy; Perth to Albany is 414km; and Perth to Hopetoun is 589km. The region can be enjoyed over a weekend, but there’s ample to do over several days, weeks or even months.

Don’t miss:

Cosy Corner Beach in Torbay (north of West Cape Howe National Park) or Ledge Bay Beach in the Gull Rock National Park (25km east of Albany) if you yearn for a stretch of coastline to yourself.

Originally published in Horizons RAC Magazine.

For more of Western Australia’s Great Southern adventures check out A gourmet road trip from Albany to Denmark, The Best of Western Australia’s Frankland River and 8 reasons to follow WA’s Public Silo Trail.

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Yala National Park

Some of Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris and beaches can be found in the south of this magical tear-shaped island.

The scents of coconut oil, incense, diesel, sunscreen, salt, and curry flirt with abandon in the gentle breeze, as swaying palm trees accompanying bikini-clad bodies glistening in the humidity. No one would mind or blame you if flopping on the beach was all you did. But interacting with the land, its people and wildlife (if you’re lucky) will be the beginning of a life-long affair with an island so rich in beauty, culture, and history, most of which seem to somehow connect with water.

At first glance, an island is defined by water, whether streaming from above or crashing into its extremes. The monsoon season dictates the best time to visit certain regions, but the rain also brings enchanting surprises like butterflies feasting on the nutrients found in mud puddles left from jeep tracks or elephants playing in a mud bath.

I’ve had the absolute pleasure of researching some of Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris and beaches.

SRI LANKA’S BEST ELEPHANT SAFARIS

As the dusty track settles after the plume of disruption, an elephant nonchalantly saunters by with her calf in tow. Her majesty suddenly pauses. She turns to face our jeep to examine us, leaving us wondering who is observing who while on safari. Our exaltation is palpable until she decides we’re no threat to her family. Despite the intense temperature and humidity, I’m not the only one covered in goosebumps.

After this unforgettable experience, I can verify that one of Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris can be found at the 30,000-hectare Udawalawe National Park, home to over 600 elephants going about their business, including mums with their calves and protective males watching over their kingdoms.

A busy mum eating on the run at Udawalawe National Park

Although you’ll also be guaranteed to see other elephant-loving tourists, I have to commend Udawalawe National Park on staggering the entry of the jeeps ensuring plenty of space between, although at times, it gets hectic when jeep drivers get a tip-off about an elephant sighting. It’ll certainly be an invigorating ride, but seeing these majestic creatures in the wild is spell-binding. I highly recommend booking with the reputable Niluka Safari group.

On safari with Niluka Safari

You’ll also see plenty of other animals too, including water buffalos, monkeys, crocodiles, spotted deer, over 180 species of birds and strutting peacocks. At the centre of the park lies the Udawalawe reservoir. Since its opening in 1972, the park is dedicated to providing a catchment area to provide water for agriculture and hydro-power generation, as well as providing a wild animal sanctuary.

You can rest your muscles with an overnight stay in a clay hut at the lakeside Camp Thuduwa in the lap of luxury, while surrounded in nature, coconut palms and a few cheeky monkeys. On-site there’s a pool, restaurant and spectacular views over the lake.

A Fluffy Towel kind of camping experience at Camp Thuduwa in Udawalawe National Park

Yala National Park is cradled in the far eastern corner of the south and covers approximately 979 square kilometres, and is one of the most popular elephant safaris in Sri Lanka. It has a range of ecosystems, including wetlands and sandy beaches and is known for its extensive bird life (over 100 species), elephants, water buffalo, wild boar, jackals, sloth bears, deer, monkeys, water monitors, crocodiles, and the highest density of leopards in the world, approximately 25 – 30 elusive leopards who are best spotted from February to July.

The park closes between September and October and the best time to visit is during the dry season between May and August; especially as elephants usually head to higher ground or use bushes as makeshift umbrellas when it’s wet. There are several tour operators including Eco Team Pvt Ltd who can also arrange unforgettable overnight glamping adventures on one of Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris.

Glamping in Yala National Park

On safari at Yala National Park

If elephants are definitely on your agenda, then Minneriya National Park has the largest gathering of Asian elephants in the world and is one of Sri Lanka’s best elephant safaris. Head to the Minneriya Tank, especially in the dry season from May to September, to watch these majestic creatures drink, bathe and play. You’ll also see plenty of monkeys, crocodiles, pythons, butterflies and over 160 species of birds.

Tips for going on a safari in Sri Lanka:

• Best time to go on a safari: safaris run for most of the year but the best time is during the dry season as the animals will be more concentrated during these times, but it will also be the busiest time to go.
• How long will I need: you can go for half a day or stay for overnight adventures, or longer. The benefit of staying overnight is that you can be up at sunrise and in the national park when the animals are more active – plus the light is glorious for photos and you’ll beat the crowds.
• Which tour company shall I book with? Do your research and opt for eco-friendly tour companies promoting the ethical treatment of animals since many safaris aren’t well-regulated. If you’re unsure Destination Sri Lanka can recommend some reputable tour companies and on my last trip in 2023, Niluka Safaris were very good at avoiding the crowds of jeeps, which can cause distress to the animals.
• Bring cash to tip your guide; they deserve it.
• Go early or late for the best light for photography and when the animals are most active.

Tips for what NOT to do on safari:

• Never feed the animals as it can make them sick and depend on humans.
• Don’t draw attention to yourself by making excessive noise – these are wild animals after all and you’re in their territory.
• NEVER, EVER leave the jeep – you’ll put yourself and others at risk, and more importantly, the animals themselves. Imagine the consequences of a herd of charging elephants.

SRI LANKA’S BEST BEACHES

Unawatuna Beach

Foreigners, burquas, and children bob along to the rhythm of boats along the curvaceous bay of Unawatuna Beach, which translates to “it fell from the sky”, and this heaven-sent beach and town hosts makeshift cafes, bars, guesthouses, and water sports like diving, snorkelling, fishing, boating and swimming.

Unawatuna town

Snorkelling equipment can be hired along the beach and the reefs near the west end can be explored year-round. There are several shipwrecks and marine life to see, and diving trips can be organised with Sea Horse Divers, who also offer diving courses, night dives, reef dives, and wreck dives. The Unawatuna Diving Centre also runs diving services and offers beach-side cabanas for an affordable beach shack experience. The best time to dive is mid-October to the end of April, and the double reef makes it very safe for swimming and a favourite with families.

A seafood feast on Unawatuna Beach

Unawatuna isn’t only famous for its beautiful beach and since it’s surrounded by hillside jungle, treks are popular, especially on the west end of the beach near the temple across the Rumassala peninsula to Jungle Beach, which can only be reached by foot or boat.

Galle Fort

Just a few kilometres to the west of Unawatuna is the town of Galle and its iconic UNESCO-listed fort. Its walls protected it from the tsunami and preserved not only its beautiful Dutch architecture, but also the working community of administrative offices, local families, street peddlers, businesses and expatriates. You can easily spend the day, or longer, in Galle Fort since it’s full of restaurants, eclectic shops, boutique accommodation, stunning architecture, boutique hotels and a friendly community.

The Fort Printers hotel

Heading east along the coast is the laid-back towns and beaches Ahangama and Midigama, which are best known for their consistent waves thanks to the many rocks and coral however, at times the conditions can be hazardous. There’s an area at Midigama commonly known as Lazy Left, which bends around the rocks and onto the bay, but it’s at Ram’s Right, a few hundred metres down that draws the experienced surfers to the region.

Continuing east is the town of Weligama (meaning Sandy Village) best known for its clay handicrafts, colourful outriggers in the sapphire bay, and the tiny Taprobane Island. Indulge in some barefoot luxury and rent out the only property on the island, a five-bedroom mansion, and live like the auspicious bevy of adventurers, authors, artists and royalty before you. The only way on or off the island is to wade through the crashing waves at low tide, but soggy underwear is a small price to pay for a visit to this magical island, as I discovered an event called Sex In A Sarong during Sri Lanka’s Galle Literary Festival.

Mirissa Beach

Imagine a coconut paradise where you long to escape with your loved ones. Your wish may be granted a few kilometres east of Weligama at Marissa Beach. Bordering on the surreal in the beauty stakes, the golden sands lined with palm trees are the epitome of the kind of beach where you’d love to be deserted. Between November and March, Marissa attracts plenty of surfers and the clear water, reefs and rocks make the snorkelling excellent. The currents are strong, though and it’s wise to find out which places are the safest to surf and swim. Girigala Rock, at the bay’s eastern end, has small reefs ideal for snorkelling, fishing and witnessing that infamous golden sunset. For a daily surfing report go to Surfline or Surf-Report.

Still heading east along the coast is the quiet beach town Dickwella, which many pass by as it’s often overshadowed by the better known beaches. Several hotels and resorts have popped up here and just a few kilometres east at Kudawela is Sri Lanka’s only known blow-hole, Hoo-maniya, where high seas force water to shoot up for 20 metres into the air through a chimney.

The competition for which part of the coastline has the most beautiful beach continues at Tangalle, particularly at the coves of Goyambokka, Medaketiya or Marakolliya Beach. Your footprints might blissfully be the only ones on the sand. It would be easy to collapse onto one of these idyllic beaches and not move until the monsoon season (April to September) rains on your parade.

Etched in our memories is the tsunami of 2004, which ravaged the coast. However, Sri Lanka’s catastrophic relationship with water dates back to the biblical times of the Ramayana and the belief that the ruins of an Atlantis-like city sleep just off the southern coast. Long-time resident of the island and science fiction author Arthur C. Clarke wrote about a tidal wave hitting Galle harbour in one of his earliest works, referenced in 1957 in The Reefs of Taprobane. From his impressive list of titles (including 2001: A Space Odyssey) it’s clear he was so inspired by the island, named Ceylon at the time of his arrival in 1954, that he remained until his death in 2008. There is a theory that due to gravitational anomalies on the island’s southern coast, there is an intense gravitational pull to the area. Fact or fiction? As a visitor to this magical region and country several times, I have to admit, I often find myself longing to return.

Sri Lanka is like those grains of sand that seem to seep into the most unlikely of crevices after a visit to the beach. Virtually impossible to instantly remove, by the time they have washed away, you’ll be left with an everlasting salty taste on your lips beckoning you to return.

In 2023 I was a guest of Destination Sri Lanka and for more information go to www.destinationsrilanka.travel 

NOTE: Before booking your holiday to Sri Lanka please check with the World Health Organisation.

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The Viceroy, Ubud

A verdant checkerboard of rice paddies and lush expanses, Ubud has staked its claim as the spiritual and artistic capital of Bali. About an hour from the airport, give or take a thousand or so motorbikes, twisty bends and road work delays, you’ll relish in the tranquillity and these unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali.

Unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali: Viceroy

Heaven forbid you only had one night in Ubud, but if you did, then the Viceroy Bali is THE place to stay. No need to negotiate the traffic, simply send for a helicopter to collect you from the airport and deliver you directly to your private villa suspended over the Valley of Kings. Bali’s architectural grandeur goes without saying but it’s the small things that set the Viceroy apart. My bale perched over a heated infinity pool includes power points and by the pool are towel rails and a games table engraved with a chessboard.

The mini bar is stocked with Veuve Clicquot and if there was ever a time to splurge it would be while soaking in the oversized bath at the centre of the opulent bathroom. Crank up the Bowers & Wilkins Zeppelin speakers and emerge through the bathroom’s filmy curtains all Zoolander-like as you head out to CasCades Restaurant.

Dinner is quite an event and features a local and international line-up including western classics with premium ingredients or the Balinese version of degustation known as Rijsttafel with traditional Babek Betutu (roasted duck) and Babi Guling (suckling pig) as you’re waited on by staff in traditional uniforms and gracious Balinese charm.

Or you can enjoy nibbles and cocktails by the pool

There’s a buggy on standby to help you back to your villa, which I must say is especially handy after a deplorable display of decadence at the Lembah Spa.

Talk about rooms with a view, and there’s over 40 villas to choose from catering to romantic couples and loving families. Integrating Balinese architecture with luxury, there are six villa categories featuring marble bathrooms, espresso machines, rain showers, 24-hour service, artifacts and infinity pools with traditional bales with valley or Petanu River views.

This dreamy resort is imbued with Balinese sensuality and bespoke details cocooning guests in privacy, romance, adventure and relaxation.

Even the grounds receive that exclusive attention to detail

The Viceroy Bali offer a range of activities including helicopter tours, luxury yachts, outings to local attractions, tours, yoga, cooking classes, rice paddy treks and even Balinese dance lessons. There’s no guarantee you’ll look as graceful as these beautiful dancers but the experience will undoubtedly be unforgettable.

I couldn’t agree more with the hotel’s motto, “Viceroy is a sanctuary in paradise.”

Unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali: Como Uma

No matter where you are in Ubud you’re never far away from an artisan whether they be painters, carpenters, weavers, musicians or those crafting batik patterns. Even the wafting incense in the open dining room at Uma by Como seems to sway in time to the smoky jazz playing in the background.

In Sanskrit, Uma means home, a concept the Como Uma fulfils within all 46 suites and villas set on 2.3 hectares of lush grounds overlooking the Tjampuhan Valley amide paddy fields carved out of hillsides dotted with palm and banyan trees. Laid out in a traditional Balinese village style, at the heart of the resort sits the lobby, 25-metre pool, bar, gym and the Ubud COMO Shambhala Retreat offering award-winning wellness treatments in serene rooms along wooden pathways flanked by koi ponds.

In addition to a menu drawing on seasonal ingredients, including Indonesian and Indian spices, guests can also order from the Shambhala Cuisine menu designed to maximise energy and well-being with the use of raw organic foods rich in living enzymes, vitamins and sea minerals. There are two restaurants to choose from, the informal Uma Cucina and Kemiri, meaning ‘candlenut’ – a key ingredient in Indonesian cuisine.

Kemiri Restaurant at night

Immersive experiences transform any stay and beyond the handcrafted villas and lush grounds, excursions range from strenuous treks and white-water rafting to visits to local villages in Ubud dedicated to creating exquisite art. Batuan Village is famed for its painting style of the same name depicting village life and history while drawing on Hindu mythology. A few minutes away a new generation of budding artists are hard at work producing equally intricate art works at the Keliki Painting School. I ask my guide Anom Suyadnya, Uma’s Activity Specialist what sets the artists apart in Ubud and he replies with, “Tourism is thriving so there are many opportunities for artists. For example, the Ritz Carlton in Ubud features Batuan art in every room.”

Unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali: Trinity Gardens

Calling all you devoted Eat Pray Love fans, Trinity Gardens will set you on a path of self-discovery, or at least a bohemian stay in their rustic complex comprising of joglos (a traditional Javanese dwellings), The Den which is ideal for a couple or small family or The Mansion perfect for a lengthy gathering of like-minded souls.

Access is gained by a beautiful 15-minute walk along the Sari Organic path depicting rural life with a smattering of organic cafes, day spas, galleries and industrious ducks along the way.

More than just somewhere to lay your head, owner Susanna Nova offers workshops in health, beauty, relationships and creativity. Susanna lives onsite with her family and was drawn to Ubud, as are many women, because of its feminine energy. She says Bali makes her feel alive, and her message to visitors is to, “Come to Bali to listen deeply to the devotion in the people. They have a quality of devotion and ritual. It’s a treasure you can’t find in other places.”

With its open bathrooms, remote access, communal living spaces, and relying only on the breeze and the onsite pool to provide relief from the humidity, Trinity Gardens is unconventional without a doubt. Without the distractions of the outside world, it’s a thrilling escape route from the confines of reality.

Unique places to stay in Ubud, Bali: Kano Sari

Symphonies of cicadas and spine-tingling chanting echoing across the ravine come as part of the package at Kano Sari, along with the meditative snipping of grass by hand; the staff prefer tradition over convenience.

There’s no mistaking where you are as owner Karen Lewis helps support Kutuh Kelod village, where Kano Sari is located, by contributing to the community, embracing Bali’s seemingly endless ceremonies (she even has outfits for her guests to use), placing offerings around the property and hiring locals.

What was originally supposed to be a villa for her family and friends to enjoy, evolved into a rambling guesthouse using natural materials sourced locally including the stone, linens, artworks, weavings on the ceilings and even the communal dining table is crafted from an old truck; although the marble came further afield from Sulawesi where her parents once lived.

Comfortably sleeping 13, Karen urges visitors to “Stay as long as possible and immerse yourself in the culture. Take the time to communicate with the locals.”

One way to take Karen’s advice in a mindful manner is to hire her local driver and guide Tano for a unique tour. If you only have time for one excursion, make it Tirtu Empul Temple for a water blessing beneath a dozen spouts; even if praying isn’t your thing, I guarantee you you’ll leave refreshed and invigorated.

While in Ubud you might enjoy some of these options in Ubud, Bali: Eat, Lay, Bend and Write or to venture further afield to The Wild West, Balinese Style in West Bali.

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Plotting how I can stay forever

Carmen Jenner was a very pampered guest of Viceroy Bali, Como Uma, Trinity Gardens and Kano Sari in Ubud

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Singapore’s Hainanese Chicken Rice is the Asian equivalent of what chicken soup is to the soul. Eaten any time of the day or night, this national dish is served everywhere from school canteens to high-end restaurants. Originally from Hainan Island in southern China, this wholesome dish is also often called Hainanese Chicken Rice, and is a meal of steamed or blanched chicken, fragrant rice and chicken broth eaten with soy sauce, spring onions, slices of cucumber, ground chilli and ginger sauce. When Chinese immigrants arrived on the island of Singapore in the 1960’s, they brought a strong labour workforce and chicken rice. Since two-thirds of Singapore’s five million residents are Chinese, their favourite meal was soon adopted as the national dish. Given the local greeting “sudah makan” means “Have you eaten?” just imagine how seriously Singaporeans take their chicken rice?

And now, compliments of the Coriander Leaf, one of Singapore’s most dynamic food hubs, you can recreate a taste of Singapore’s Chicken Rice recipe.

If you’re still hungry for Singapore, please check out A Singapore Schwing: Fun date ideas in Singapore.

Carmen Jenner was a guest of the Singapore Tourism Board, Novotel Singapore Clarke-Quay and Scoot Airlines.

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Thirty years have passed since Meg Ryan made cinematic history with THAT unforgettable climatic scene in When Harry Met Sally. While she orgasmically made her point, there’s certainly no fakery involved in pastrami sandwiches or bagels when hunting down Jewish food in the Lower East Side (LES) in New York City. Afterall, hundreds of years of civilisation have gone into the creation and enjoyment of Jewish food. There are few things as comforting as a matzo ball soup as falling snow silences the city. Or as iconic as dining at Katz’s Delicatessen to have what she’s having.

Hot New York Travel Tip: Save up to 50% on attractions with GoCity by clicking here.

Given a large proportion of the Jewish community who immigrated from Poland to NYC ended up in the LES, this gritty neighbourhood houses the largest Jewish population outside of Israel. The first recorded Jewish settler arrived in the mid-1600s, with the greatest influx in the late 1880s bringing with them their traditions, synagogues and Jewish food in the Lower East Side.

Located between the Bowery, East River, Houston Street and Chinatown’s Canal Street, tenement buildings are as synonymous as Jewish food in the Lower East Side. Where the crowded working class once spilled out onto the filthy sidewalks, hipsters have now claimed it their own with funky bars, restaurants, galleries and shops. Once home to Lou Reed and rumour has it Lady Gaga has digs in the LES, Bill Clinton and the late Anthony Bourdain also got their pastrami fix from Katz’s.

On arrival to Katz’s, you’ll be handed a yellow ticket and whatever you don’t lose it as it will cost you $50 if you don’t return it when you leave. Work out what you want to order before you get to the counter, or you’ll be yelled at.

You’ve probably gathered by now that Katz’s Pastrami Hot Sandwich is legendary. It’s cooked for so long and is so tender and juicy that it would fall apart using a meat carver and must be hand-carved to order. It’s best ordered with matzo ball soup, which are bready dumplings served in a homemade chicken broth; chicken soup for the Jewish soul. Many also order sides (knish) of potato, broccoli, spinach or the noodle dish, kasha. The serves are obscenely large so pace yourself and be like a New Yorker and take away the leftovers to enjoy later.

Other kosher favourites include chopped liver (“What am I, chopped liver?”) and the Corned Beef Hot Sandwich, where the beef is dry cured for a month. Add swiss cheese and sauerkraut and turn it into a Rueben Hot Sandwich and a side of pastrami if you’re up to the challenge. There’s always a side of pickles to help cut through the grease.

Another nostalgic favourite in the LES is Russ & Daughters known for their smoked fish, caviar, baked goods and bagels. New Yorkers take their bagels very seriously and believe that no bagel ever tastes as good as it does in New York due to the water. Joel Russ immigrated from Poland in 1907 and made a name for himself selling herring out of a barrel on a pushcart. Now a fourth-generation family business, smoked salmon slicers work in an open kitchen at Russ & Daughters honouring an over-the-counter tradition.

I lined up for 45 minutes at Ess-a-Bagel in Midtown founded by an Austrian baking family who have been hand-rolling bagels for 40 years. I had no idea there were so many variations ranging from cinnamon raisin and nine grain with honey, and that’s just the bagels. The choice of cream cheeses included chocolate chip, sundried tomato and cheddar. If you’re in a rush, you can avoid the line and buy the fillings and bagels separately and prepare them yourself.

Late one rainy night I stumbled upon 2^nd Ave Deli and I learned two things. Seinfeld filmed an episode in this deli and New York is a city that DOES sleep as the deli was closing just as we arrived. They gave us our matzo ball soups to go and directed us to the tiny bar next door which was open until the unrespectable wee hours.

While delis used to be dime a dozen, especially in the LES, the ones that have survived have done so because of their loyal following and traditions. It’s difficult to imagine any place in Perth being in operation for so long, but there are kosher options that don’t require a gruelling 30-hour flight 12 time zones away.

For more New York yearnings, you might enjoy A New York Love Affair and a stroll along The High Line: A New York City Favourite.

Originally published in Issue 27 of Menu Magazine

If you’ve made it to the end, you’ve probably got a hankering for more travel so please don’t forget to subscribe to stay up-to-date.

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The most obvious place to seek serenity in any city is within the leafy confines of a park. New York has no shortage of open green spaces, and plenty of clandestine pockets of calm to help you find peace in New York City.

Hot New York Travel Tip: Save up to 50% on attractions with GoCity by clicking here.

Known as the lungs of the metropolis, Central Park has many secluded spots within its 840 acres of vastness. Lose your thoughts on the elm-tree line Mall and Literary Walk or go into hiding in the secret garden within the Conservatory Garden or retreat into the historical museum at Belvedere Castle.

Tiny pockets of serendipity exist between the city towers, like a segment of the Berlin Wall on east 53^rd between Fifth and Madison or the Creative Little Garden in the East Village or Jefferson Market Garden in Greenwich Village. The High Line is too popular to offer solitude however the disused railway, converted into a sky-park, offers an interesting saunter amongst the street performers, art installations and has plenty of places to flop with a birds-eye view into the cacophony below and surrounding buildings.

Way uptown in Fort Tyron Park The Met Cloisters houses the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s (The Met) medieval art collection within an exquisite medieval monastery. Overlooking the Hudson, it’s not on the tourist trail but worth the trek if only to languish in the medieval gardens and admire the unicorn tapestries which appeared in the Harry Potter movies. Established in 1902 in the Bronx, the New York Botanical Garden was cleverly planted to be blooming all year round. Green thumbs should allow for a lengthy visit to fully inhale all 50 gardens and regular exhibitions.

Downtown the Skyscraper Museum gives architectural buffs some perspective of the scale of Manhattan compared to other mega-cities of the world without even having to step out onto the pavement. The Museum of the City of New York celebrates the city and its wonderful history without the crowds. Unknown to many, The Metropolitan Museum of Art offers free entry for residents and is open on Friday and Saturday nights and you might find yourself alone with Henry the 8^th’s armour or the jewels from Cleopatra’s reign. While at the Met, rest your feet in the oriental gardens in Astor Court or pop up to the rooftop garden on the 5^th floor; that’s if you can find the entrance many struggle to locate, which means more space to spread out.

Relishing in the city from above provides a sense of calm and located 18 storeys above the chaos the rooftop lounge at the Gramercy Terrace Hotel offers an oasis with those heart-stopping views which beckoned you to the Big Apple in the first place. There’s many rooftop bars to sample, and Salon De Ning, perched above the Peninsula Hotel, is the epitome of oriental drama meets big city glamour. Imagine sipping your cocktail of choice while everyone below scrambles home during peak hour.

Keeping a lower profile, hotel lobbies offer anonymity which in itself is very liberating, especially if you aren’t staying there. The vast lobby at the Ace Hotel is sectioned up into intimate spaces by retro lounges designed for a leisurely slouch with a caffeine fix by your side and laptop perched where it was originally intended. The Paramount Hotel near Times Square has a chic lobby whispering for a quiet drink or secret rendezvous. Or there’s the exquisite Bemelmans Bar at The Carlyle where the amber-coloured walls are adorned with artist Ludwig Bemelman’s depictions from the Madeline children’s books.

For more details about New York City, please check out www.nycgo.com

Perhaps the New York Love Affair continues or maybe you want to have what she’s having with some Jewish food in the Lower East Side? Make sure you subscribe so you don’t miss out.

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